susieq4131

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Everything posted by susieq4131

  1. WorkTheWood, The Sawstop has exceeded our original expectations. It's also amazingly quiet. SQ
  2. Thanks! I ordered two more 6 inch face plates and they arrived today! This gives me a total of three 6 inch face plates. Now the chips are really going to fly! SQ
  3. Santa brought us a contractor's Sawstop which I love plus the two cast iron wings, dado blade and dado brake. We are very happy with it! SQ
  4. Tim, Those really turned out nice! Very nice job! SQ
  5. Thanks! I've never turned a bowl from a solid bowl blank. I've turned a few plates and platters from a solid piece, but never a bowl. SQ
  6. That is gorgeous! I want that piece and your lathe! SQ
  7. Yes, was having some technical difficulties. lol Think I figured it. SQ
  8. This bowl was made from walnut, cherry, and maple. Bowl rings were 22mm wide. Wood was 25.5 mm thick. Rings were cut at 41 degrees. Bowl was finished on the lathe. Bowl measures 12 3/4 inch inches in diameter and 4 inches tall. Thanks for looking. SQ
  9. Wow. That is truly amazing. I'd love to have his lathe. lol SQ
  10. Yes, I also have a basic set of carving tools and a dremel but never used the dremel for this application. Here are some very shallow spoons I scrolled the outside form and carved the bowl. If I used the dremel to help sand the interior that would be very helpful. There must be other sanding attachments, I am not aware of for the dremel. Thinking I will cut some more salad sets ( fork and spoon) from Steve Good's pattern and give it another try. Another option is turning the handle and then carving out the spoon. Time to dust off the carving set and give it another try. SQ
  11. I obviously have no real spoon skills . The turned handle looked wonderful, but I just couldn't get the bowl of the spoon looking right. Steve Good's site has some great spoons. forks, and spatulas to scroll. I'm actually cut out several of his spatulas today. The Grex comes with a rather firm sanding pad but they make a thick flexible pad which the sanding pads attach to. This thick flexible pad makes sanding angles much easier. This pad will fly off the sander if it isn't against something when you turn the sander on. I've been on the floor more than once trying to locate the darn thing. SQ
  12. I bought the Grex air sander from Woodcraft and they carry the pads from 60 grit to 800 grit. I think it's the perfect size for the lathe. I'm really happy with it. I tried that spoon and it turned out horrible. I never could get it to look right. Spoons are more difficult than they look. SQ
  13. Duckkisser, I bought a new Grex 2" air sander and also bought the extensions so I can get into deep bowls. They also have available a 3" pad, but I haven't found it necessary. I ended up having to upgrade my air compressor as the minimum requirement for this air sander is a 60 gallon air compressor. I am very pleased I took the plunge and bought the Grex and 60 gallon air compressor. I can now sand on the lathe up to 800 grit. I take my time sanding, and don't move up to the next grit until I am satisfied that grit has accomplished all it is capable of. SQ
  14. S Barton, I thought pictures would explain this better. 1st picture is right after this bowl was cut out on a scroll saw and pattern removed. (I see from this picture the rings are not aligned, but I do align the rings before I glue them up. Second picture shows alignment marks on the sides of the bowl) Entry holes for drill bit must be set at the same angle I cut the rings. The angle at which I cut the rings is the same throughout the bowl resulting in rings that stack up one on top of the other with little overhang. The width of each ring is the same. 2nd picture is the bowl rings and bottom of bowl glued up and a waste block attached for turning. I hope this answered your question. SQ
  15. Russ, Thanks. I have another 13 1/4 platter in the works that is a definite pattern - maple cherry, and walnut. Really looking forward to seeing this new one completed. Should have glued up the block last night, but I was slacking. lol Need to glue on the waste block today so I can work on it tomorrow. SQ
  16. Thanks Tim! Appreciate the kind words. SQ
  17. Duckkisser, That should certainly work. Good plan. SQ
  18. Bowls pictured are in two sizes 12 5/16" in diameter and a 10 1/16" in diameter from some dark maple I had. I have just enough wood to make a third smaller bowl, but haven't cut it out yet.. Tried to make the bowls as similar as possible. Ended up with a deeper than normal drill hole entry on the larger bowl when separating the rings. As a result the largest bowl has a slightly different shape. Had originally created a large ring around the outside edge of the biggest bowl and then decided to try and match the bowls. Because of this change, it resulted in a thinner edge on the larger bowl. Tried my best to match the bead around the outside edge. I've learned it's helpful to have a plan in mind and stick to it from the get go. Plate/platter is 11 1/4" in diameter. Laminated mostly 1/4 strips of maple in a random pattern. This plate/platter started out at 13 1/4 inches. I ended up changing the edge design about 5 different times - reason for the shrinking size. lol Since this multi - pieced wood design was so busy, settled on a simpler edge design. Finish (on all three items) is my favorite USP grade mineral oil and 100% beeswax. Here are the results. SQ
  19. Roger, What a smart idea! I will have to try that. SQ
  20. Duckkisser, I have never heard of boiling wood, but I'm new at turning and have much to learn. Will check that out. I can see it now - not only chips but water flying around while turning. lol I think your wands and key rings are a great idea. I've always believed that if one is doing what they love, the money will come. I'm very excited about trying spoons. Will let you know how it turns out. Food for thought, the big successful companies sell at what the market will bear. Figuring out what the market will bear, might take some research. I have basically given away my products for little or nothing in the past. I'm a little tired of doing that. Why not make decent money on our products? Aren't our products worth it? SQ
  21. Ok, I'm going to come clean. I don't use kraft paper when I'm gluing up waste blocks to my plates/platters or bowls. Here is my method: I find the center of the plate/platter or bowl using a ruler and compass which also gives me the horizontal and vertical line I will use later for alignment purposes. I made a waste block template of multiple sizes which has the horizontal and vertical lines marked. Using this template, I select my waste block size, attach it to a planed piece of wood and cut it out on the scroll saw leaving the template attached. I also mark a 90 degree line down the side of the block from the horizontal or vertical lines - again used for alignment purposes later. This is where it gets a little different. I glue a piece of wax paper to the bottom of my plate/platter or bowl using Titebond III. Next, I glue another piece of wax paper to my waste block again using titebond III. Finally, I glue the two pieces of wax paper together using Titebond III. To get the waste block centered to the plate/platter or bowl, I just align the horizontal and vertical lines with the corresponding horizontal and vertical lines on the plate/platter or bowl. Since these layers have a tendency to slide around - due to the glue, I stack wood on top, checking the alignment and let it cure overnight. This waste block template also has a blue ring in the center which just fits inside the hole on my face plate. By looking down the hole of the face plate, I can easily align the face plate to the waste block just before I am ready to turn. I use waste blocks exclusively when turning plates/platters and bowls using this glue up method. My bowls are usually segmented. I cut out the rings and glue them up with Titebond III. My plates and platters are made from one solid piece of wood and are usually about 1 1/4 inches thick. I have not used this glue up method on large bowl blanks but have used this method on smaller bowl blanks. I have turned plates/platters and bowls up to 13 1/4 inches in diameter with zero problems. I have a 14" inboard, so figure this is about the largest I can turn. However, am thinking about enlarging that by another 1/4 inch assuming my lathe will accept this new larger size. This glue up method has worked extremely well for me. I regularly check the waste block to make sure there is no separation. What do you think? Is this a wacky method? I'm not encouraging anyone to use this method. I realize now that kraft paper seems to be the preferred method. But this technique seems to work well for me. Picture of waste block template attached - which saves me lots of alignment time. SQ
  22. LOL No, I've never heard of that. Care to elaborate? You mentioned spoons a few posts back. I'm hoping to give this a try tomorrow! I'll let you know how it turns out. SQ
  23. Thanks for the tip about the kraft paper at JoAnn's. Do you always double up the paper? What kind of glue do you use? SQ
  24. The Delta 46-460 is a very nice machine. I have a Grizzly G1495 which I got used on craigslist. SQ