Gilgaron

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About Gilgaron

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    Journeyman Poster

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    http://woodworkingchat.com

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  • Location
    Central Ohio
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand tools, Power tools, basement woodworking, furniture

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  1. Hide Glue

    You can make your own with this recipe I like: http://www.workbenchdiary.com/2015/01/convert-to-collagen-free-printable.html?m=1 you can even make quite a bit and freeze the extra. The granules keep forever, more or less. i bought mine from Bjorn Hide Glue, but their webapage isn’t pulling up for me at the moment. Cheaper than supplier middlemen, for sure, although I think the minimum order was a pound of granules. If you decide you like hide glue the leevalley glue pot is very worth while.
  2. Dremel Rotary Tools?

    Their warranty service is really good, and the tool is useful. I also enjoy the right angle attachment, most often used to turn it into a very small right angle drill. A rotary tool will do a mediocre job at almost anything, which sounds like a put-down, but it also is the only tool that will work for some things. I agree about the variable speed being very desirable.
  3. Fix for sticky LO, Turpentine, Wax finish???

    How would the owner feel about it being a shellac finish? That's my save for smaller items when I'm experimenting with oil finish and end up with a sticky mess. It might not hold up as long as a modern finish on a table but if the owner is a former purist they may not mind an occasional touchup with some alcohol, and a dining room table is usually covered when you're using it so it may do pretty well versus a kitchen table.
  4. Handplaning panels for a finished surface

    I skip the sandpaper whenever possible, but since you'll have a mix of planed and scraped spots if you're like me, then it is good to go over it with something, be it steel wool (if not using water base finish) or burnishing it. I like shellac, though, and it is very forgiving on surface prep.
  5. How do you budget for tools?

    Start with what you need: a desk, or some casing and baseboards installed. See what it costs to buy or hire out something about as nice as what you want to make, ensuring at this point that you can afford it as a regular homeowner expense. Subtract the cost of the materials from the cost to buy and then you have your equipment budget, since if you're doing it for fun then you're not paying yourself any wages. Then, each time you have a new project, your tooling from before is still around and you can slowly expand what kind of projects you can do. Wants or upgrades can go on the Christmas list or budget as with any other want.
  6. Wood Flooring - Black Stain is transferring

    Shouldn't you be asking your supplier what they used to stain the wood as the first step for troubleshooting? What happens if you take a piece and scrub it with a wet rag? Do you eventually pull off all the unbound stain with some remaining or does it all come off?
  7. Danish Oil Recipes

    For shellacs the flakes last more or less forever, in solution you have 6 months or so. I have a little piece of picture frame glass I test the shellac on. For varnish I use some fast-dry oil varnish from Sherwin Williams, upon a recommendation to me that it was one of the few that still contained alkyd resins versus most that are polyurethane. The difference between the two may be fairly academic, but it seems to work well. Don't make up too much at once as the resins appear to be able to polymerize after a bit in the mason jar, whereas in the can is still fine; I assume commercially blended varnish/oil blends have some emulsifiers or additives, but then again I've had half-cans of Arm-R-Seal turn into a block of plastic in the can... Also enjoyable if you like messing with chemistry during your woodworking: making your own hide glue from granules. You can do "hot hide glue" or "liquid hide glue" depending on your preference.
  8. Danish Oil Recipes

    The 'classic' home mix is 1:1:1 MS, BLO, and Varnish and then play with it and adjust based on what you want it to behave like by playing with scraps. More varnish helps it build faster, more oil makes it take longer to dry, more MS makes it flash off faster. If you look at the can of Watco it is mostly MS, so a 1:1:1 home mix will behave very differently. Making your own is more to make it behave just like you want, so there won't be a 'best' ratio versus just finding what you like. If you enjoy making finishes up I also recommend getting some shellac flakes and denatured alcohol, once I started using shellac I started using a lot less Danish oil.
  9. Advice on a Stanley No.6 Please.

    Yeah that blade is shot, but you can get replacements from any of the woodworking retailers. How much it'd cost will depend on if you're going premium or just direct replacement. Looks like about $21 on Woodcraft's page for what should be comparable to the original blade https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-v3-replacement-blade-for-no-6-no-7-bench-plane?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_term=153919&utm_content=All Products Lee Valley/Veritas has a line of their more premium blades in various types of steel as I recall, although they probably run more.
  10. Staining after BLO

    If you want to stain it even once the oil is off the surface, I'd scrub it with a rag soaked in mineral spirits, put down some shellac, then use a gel stain, and then a top coat of whatever floats your boat. Otherwise the soaked in oil may give you some trouble since nothing else is really going to soak in even if the surface is clean of goo.
  11. staining walnut

    I haven't actually gotten around to trying it out yet, but I did buy some walnut crystals made from walnut husks with the intent to see how it looked on some walnut scraps. I thought it might be fun to make it a little darker while still avoiding sacrilege!
  12. How do You Find the Right Dye Color

    I keep a little sewn logbook (vs a spiral bound where pages could get torn out) where I write down everything I do when I finish something, as well as any observations or problems that occurred or were addressed. It takes extra time, but creates a handy reference for when I need to recreate something or want to try something new without necessarily starting from scratch.
  13. New-to-me Toyol

    I've got a low angle jack and still use my number 6, so you have no excuse not to hoard! How often do you use the 112 there? They've always seemed interesting but I already have a modern and vintage cabinet scraper so not really sure that it'd be useful for me.
  14. Water based finish breakdown

    Shellac isn't really low VOC, but since the volatile organic is ethanol it is pretty safe. You can use beeswax and oil blends on objects that don't need to survive heavy wear, like picture frames. I haven't used much waterbase stuff but from here and elsewhere I'd think General Finishes is going to be the standard bearer.
  15. Bench top vs stand alone pedestal

    Haven't used the full height of my floor model but certainly have used the depth and throw. I have the inexpensive Porter Cable one you can get at Lowe's and it works well. If you bolt it to some plywood bolted to a mobile base (make it broad enough so it isn't tippy) it is easy to move around and doesn't take up much space.