Ian Gagnon

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About Ian Gagnon

  • Birthday 04/21/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Northeastern Connecitcut
  • Woodworking Interests
    Indoor and outdoor furniture building, custom decor items and even an instrument once in a while.

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  1. Lol!!! It would be VERY interesting trying to fit that in my Jetta when a friend/family member needs me to come over and do trim carpentry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. You can't get a boom arm for the MINI or MIDI. And actually, I can't fit a boom arm in my shop because the ceiling height is too low, so I figured there wasn't much of a reason to go with a 26/36.
  3. I have the exact same saw and feel the same way about it. I keep thinking about upgrading, but it works great. One of those rare gems where you actually DO get more than you paid for.
  4. Hey everybody. Busy with work so haven't posted in a while. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a Festool CT purchase in the near future and would like to know what people use/like as well as their thoughts on my situation. I currently have a nice dust collection system installed for all my main power tools. (TS, Bandsaw, Planer, Jointer, etc. I also have hoods for my drill press and my lathe.) I have a nice shop vac with a Dust Deputy and an auto-switch that handles my small stationary tools (Oscillating belt/spindle sander, Scroll Saw which I actually use more with sanding strips installed than anything else, and my 24" CNC. And yeah, the CNC is super awesome and fun. Great for sign making or adding cool detail that would otherwise be impossible for me to do by hand or take forever. Built it myself and soooo glad I did.) I have an additional 12' hose that I plug into that vac/cyclone setup for things like my Festool sander, or my handheld router, etc. I would just rather have a CT Extractor next to my bench for those hand tools, especially since I'm moving all my handheld power tools over to Festool over the next few years as they die out (which a few are on their last legs). Here are my factors: 1. I will be adding a cyclone separator inline, so internal capacity of the CT isn't a huge concern. 2. My ceiling height in my shop is low (it's a basement). I measured to see if a boom arm attachment would even work in my shop at if it did fit, it would be quite literally scraping the overhead joists, let alone the lighting fixtures, etc. 3. I don't have the room or really the desire to use all of the work center attachments for the larger CT vac's. 4. I do work outside my shop at least once a month that would benefit greatly from being able to easily take a CT with me. With all those factors said, I'm leaning towards the MIDI. It's nice and compact for travel. Has the same CFM of suction as the CT26 and larger. At about 4 gallons of capacity I'm not worried about filling it in one day of work (the CT MINI is a little too small of capacity). I keep thinking maybe I should go with the CT26, but there really isn't a reason why that I can think of. I won't be using any of the boom arm/work center attachments. With the cyclone before it in my shop there isn't a capacity issue/changing bags too often. The MIDI is still capable of utilizing both sizes of hose. Is there anything I'm missing? Also, since the MIDI costs less, I can upgrade another hand power tool with the purchase and still be inside my budget of $800. You can't package a CT26 with any tool that I need and be under $800. Thanks everyone! I look forward to your input! Ian
  5. Hello everyone! It has been quite a while since I posted anything. Work has been crazy! I have a Festool 125 EQ on the way to replace an aging 5" sander in my shop and was wondering if anyone has tried the Mirka Abranet abrasives on a Festool. Obviously you want to use the Mirka interface pad pad so the hook on the Festool pad doesn't get trashed. Thoughts? Thanks! And Happy Holidays! Ian
  6. The bars are powder coated aluminum. So the finish didn't really cause an issue. I avoided getting any finish on them (as best I could) during finishing, and any the did get on cleaned up easily with some mineral sprits once the finish was dry. That is actually one of the things that I would have changed if I did it again. I would have had the holes for the balusters go all the way through the bottom of the gate so they could be loaded in after finishing. Perhaps cut a long mortice in the bottom that I could fit a plug to in order to fill the space. It would be on the bottom and wouldn't be visible, but it would have been a nice change to the design. Or pre finish more.
  7. Excuse me while I mop up all the drool... That's awesome!!! Great work indeed.
  8. I started doing the round overs by hand with a rasp, but my work schedule was so busy I knew I didn't have the time to do the entire thing by hand at that point, so it was time to employ some half and half hybrid work! I dry fit the gate without the balusters then clamped it up making sure the joints were flat and square. I then went over the complete gate with a round over bit in my router, stopping just shy of the corners to avoid tearout and to make sure I didn't end up ruining the profile of the corners. I then went back in with my rasps/files/sandpaper and worked the inside and outside corners by hand as well as went over the whole thing by hand to make sure all the transitions were smooth. Then when I took the clamps off to disassemble it for the dry run with the balusters in, it was already basically complete. When the glue up was done, I just did a small tweak here or there. Steal away! Honestly, I didn't put much thought into the shape ahead of time. I knew the space I had to work in, rough dimensions and basic assembly. Then as I built I did the old "let the wood tell me what it wants to do." Hahahaha. There are some pretty cool open knots and spalting around the top of the gate that I saw in the material as I laid it out. Some of the choices I made were simply to make sure I could leave a bit of that in for personality. Next order of business, a new coffee table!
  9. If they wanted to chew through it, I'm sure they could, but it would be a long-term Shawshank Redemption style undertaking. Hahahaha. Usually you can control what they chew on by providing them with enough attractive looking options like cardboard boxes, wicker baskets, etc. It's only when they get bored that they'll go for the woodwork, but they will from time to time. Kind of comes with the territory.
  10. So far, so good! With the basic shape in place I began to plane the frame down to make sure everything was nice and flush as well as started rounding all of the edges. With that done and looking how I wanted it, it was time for another dry fit with the balusters in place. Here are some shots of the dry fit going back together so you can see the joinery. Some of the joints look a little loose in that last shot since it was all dry fit and there weren't any clamps on it. With just a touch of pressure everything lined up and seated nicely. I disassembled it and re-ran the dry fit doing all the clamping I would do for glue-up at the same time as well. I'm a big fan of doing a dry run of assembly with clamps and everything before actually doing the glue-up. Saves you from getting stuck in a bad spot while glue is drying. Once it was glued up, it was time for finish and then to get hung up! The gate can be lifted off the hinge pins if you need to remove it for any reason. I also built the latch so that the gate can be opened in either direction, which is handy when you're either trying to keep the little ones in the living room, or trying not to push them out of the way with the gate. The latch doesn't have the knobs on it yet, but that will be coming in a few days once I have some time off. Sorry for the grainy shots. It wasn't very bright in the house when I hung it, so the camera is trying to make heads or tails of things. The color is a little off in the picture, but you definitely get the idea! Well. It turned out about how I wanted! If I was to build it again, there are a couple of things that I would do differently, but all-in-all not too shabby. Hope you enjoyed the pictures and writeup! Ian.
  11. Hey everyone. It's been (yet again) a while since I posted anything. Working a whole heck of a lot right now, so not a lot of time to get into the shop. I do however have a project I've been picking away at for a while that I finished up. The last project I posted was a custom built rabbit hutch for the 2 baby Holland Lop rabbits we got. Well, the babies aren't babies anymore! They're big fans of hanging out in the bay window and watching the world go by outside. We've been using a pressure-fit style baby gate to block the living room off from the rest of the house for about 10 years now (our rabbit Louie who passed away in March of this year also had his cage in the living room since it's the room we spend 80% of our time in.) I finally got sick and tired of stepping over the damn thing and figured it was time to build a nice walk-through gate. The frame is 5/4 Poplar like the hutch because it isn't toxic to rabbits, so if they chew on it, there shouldn't be a problem. I also used the same water based finishing and Tried & True that I used on the hutch. The balusters in the gate are left over from when I rebuilt the front and back stairs to the house. Figured it was time I put the leftovers to good use. Here's everything laid out after milling was complete to check the layouts of the tenons and the basic dimensions. I had drilled the holes for the balusters first because those could be the biggest problem in the gate being built square. Once all of those holes were drilled and everything dropped in nice and straight, it was much easier to layout the 6 mortise and tenon joints. I then cut the mortise and tenons for the rails that hold the balusters in place. With that done and the joints tight and square I could move on to the top of the gate. I then cut the joinery for the top section, leaving it square. Once the joints seated clean and square, I could begin to work on the shape of the top of the gate. With everything lined up properly, I found a profile for the top of the gate that I liked, cut it on the bandsaw and refit.
  12. A lot of people aren't very familiar with rabbits as pets. I can't tell you how many people have come over the house and been surprised. They're massively social animals, so if you keep them isolated in a hutch outdoors, they get very introverted. If, however, you have them in your house, right in the middle if the action and interact with them every day, their personalities are HUGE! And they are wickedly smart. We're talking problem solving smart. If they can work out the leverage, they'll open their own cages, etc. They pretty much thrive on mental stimulation and puzzles. You just have to keep them stimulated or they get bored and will start to chew things, be antisocial. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Haven't been on the forums for a while. Work has been busy, and on top of that I was trying to get some projects around the house done before the new arrivals came home. My wife and I have always had rabbits as pets. They live in the house with us, are litter box trained and when raised well have a personality that lies somewhere between a dog and a cat. Absolutely hilarious little hams that love affection. After we lost our rabbit Louie to cancer just before his 10th birthday, we took a few months before bringing new babies home. I knew I wanted a whole new cage and hutch setup for them, so I got to thinking and came up with using a large dog pen with an attached 2 level hutch. The next thought was wood species. There are woods that are safe for rabbits to chew on, and there are woods that are generally thought to be bad for them (some are poisonous when green, but after being kiln dried, it's still a good idea to avoid them). I knew I wanted to make a curved hutch, so I went with Italian Bending Poplar for that section and decided to continue the rest in poplar since it is a safe wood. I would finish it as a two-tone so it had more character and fit in with the living room aesthetics. I chose a General Finishes Water-Based Stain (Black Cherry and Early American) for the color, which would only be on the outside of the hutch, and a Tried & True finish as a top coat. It is Linseed Oil based, and Linseed Oil is used by some vets as a therapy for rabbits that need more essential fats in their diet, so it seemed to be the safest option. Then on to figuring out the design from a structural point. It is all done with dados and rabbets, and held together with a few select brad point nails and standard yellow glue (basic titebond) because it has less chemicals in it. The floors and roof as well as the frame are solid poplar, and the vertical ribs of the frame are rabbeted to accept the curved panels. Finally, since I would have a ton of bending poplar left over, I laminated 4 sheet with alternating grain direction to make the ramp and the flat front wall for the second floor. (It gets amazingly rigid when laminated like this. I expected it to be a reasonably good shop made plywood, but wow, no more bending at that point!) Now to build! First I started off with making a template for the top, which would determine the overall size. Then jointed, planed and glued up the sections needed. I cut a stack of circle blanks as well that I glued up to be thrown on the lathe later to make a decorative accent for the roof. Once the panels were glued up, I started by cutting out the floor on the ground level to decide how it would attach to the cage. I cut the door off of the end of the cage and filed and sealed all the ends of the cage frame so they were safe. I then settled on a dado cut along the bottom of the panel that would drop over the edge of the cage opening to lock it in place. Gravity does the work of keeping it in place, but you can lift it free for cleaning and moving. Once that was in and level, it was on to building the verticals that would tie everything together. Even though it's a hutch that will get chewed up over the years, I still like nice clean joinery! And with those done, it was time to assemble the basic frame, which included dropping the turned decorative top piece on to see how it looked. Since everything looked good, it was time to start finishing. Again, I dropped the top parts back on to see how the frame looked with the two-tone. Then when the finish dried, it was time for the internal wall for the second floor. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/3yma5y3u.jpg A test fit makes sure the door is as big as I can make it, while not being too tall and being blocked by the cage frame. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/9a8avadu.jpg Then it was time to put the curved panels in. They are fit in dry then tacked in place with decorative round head nails finished in black. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/u5e9esah.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/vu5udeja.jpg Then it was time to fully assemble it and move it up to the living room! The roof lifts off so you can clean the second level easily, or to get to a bunny that might be up there and unable or unwilling to come out. The small central section of the roof sits proud of the main roof by 1" so there is a gap for airflow into the second level. It is topped with a decorative glass cabinet door pull to add a little more visual interest. The ramp is attached to the second level and done! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/jymyge5y.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/agy3ygyq.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/ume7ypa7.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/utabe8y9.jpg And after the project is done, the best reward is that it is a big hit with the new tenants! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/y9ymy6a5.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/ada3ebyj.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/09/genu3ezy.jpg Thanks for checking out my project. As always I love to hear people points of view on the work and any suggestions. Ian Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. No issues with catching, but there was a good reason for it: Kept my edges super sharp, made sure my speed was appropriate and rode the bevel. Additionally, it was all about light passes and not getting too aggressive. I'm also sure that there was some luck in there too! Hahaha. With grain going in every direction, it's a bit of a crap shoot when you start hollowing. You just have no idea what you're going to find. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk