Tommy Hall

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About Tommy Hall

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  1. I have been using a Makita 1016 for a couple of decades. The problem is the miter lock plate sits on the miter scale plate. I replace the "slide plate" as the original was broken, I still can use the saw without the scale plate in place. Is the saw designed to have the "turn base" sit on the plastic "slide plate", or is there something missing in between the two components. Is it possible the "turn plate" has worn down, the flatness of the work area seems OK. Any help will be appreciated. Tommy Hall
  2. I gave the few odds and ends of my red handled Stanley 750's to young guy at work, it filled in the ones he inherited from his late Father. I use a set of chisels I bought in the 70's and they do not hold an edge well, I actually think my blue handled beaters are better. I would like to pick up some replacements that have better steel and wonder what the opinion of new versa old and what are the brands of new have been tried by members of this forum. I would probably lean towards pre war but am not sure which brands are the best for their steel.
  3. Where I work we use a 1/4" edging because of things catching and damaging. We apply it on the full length of the plywood sheet stock before it's cut up for shelving and cabinet boxes if there is no face frames to cover the edge of the plywood. It has to add a bunch of time but the houses are high end and the cabinetry is a small part of the overall construction cost, still six figure kitchens. I have used band molding but was never happy with the outcome, takes practice. Tommy Hall
  4. I really like the beaded inset too, and, it gives you a little bit of extra control over the flat, sort of a little forgiveness. Wood is a very difficult medium to work in, either hand tools or machine tools. It's really nice to have a site like this to get info from.
  5. Where I work, most these cabinets have Lazy Suzzan's in them, there are other organizers that can be fitted, not easily. Modern Euro hardware can be hard to adjust, but you can buy a hole cutter in MM to make a plug and start over, not that we have done that "HA". Your next test could be an inset door corner cabinet, they absolutely have to be made square, we use raised floor that are absolutely flat and level to build any cabinet. There two large floors at different heights, will not fit in my 12x16 shop. Your cabinets look great can't wait to see the island! Please consider the challenge, next time will be easier. Think of the people in a phone center!! GO MAT!
  6. Thanks Corey for the input. Is the "widest jaw ....." the scissor vice? Any pic's of your bench? Tommy Hall Amesbury, MA
  7. I always make my work so I can assemble and reassemble it before a even look at the glue!!
  8. Looks good to me, I hope you keep us posted. Through the years I've seen allot of kitchens pulled out only to be replaced by trashy cabinets when they could have just up dated the faces, your making a nice cabinet.
  9. I have had good luck with Evaporust, here's another one DR X Rust Remover. I have had no problems with modern thicker blades in my old Stanley's. They're really nice in block planes with adjustable mouths. Not sure if a replacement chipper is important, are there feelings on that issue out there?
  10. Ok Ok we digress, is how to date a Stanley plane, I assume that this has come up on this blog before. I admit, if I was at a bar and she was covered with sawdust I might bring up how to date a Stanley plane! Not sure if it would work, my shop is quite small. Ok, I admit I collect Stanley Type #11 planes and would like to help jfitz with his find. I went into a collectable place in Newburyport, MA a couple years ago and picked up two Stanley's, a #06 & #07 for $120, for the wood knobs and handles and when I got them home, looking them over I felt the #07 was not used much at all, OMG it created an education in how the Stanley finished the castings. Cold And Not Wintery In MA, Tommy Hall
  11. Hi jfitz, Interesting #07, is it a high knob or low knob and is there any patent dates on it. Do you know how to date it? Tommy Hall Amesbury, MA
  12. Real close to you is Highland Hardwoods in Brentwood and Northland Forest Products just a couple miles South on Rt. 125. Northland is cheaper but will not help you out much, ma not be open on weekends. In Rowley MA is Yankee Pine they sell most their wood milled. Also Keever-Willard in Newburyport, they only want BIG orders. If your going to do one in Hard Maple email me at, I live in Amesbury and work at a shop in Rockport, MA they buys large quanity's of wood from K-W, we could add it to a load. I'll be a few months before I'll start the bench project.
  13. Richard, did you notice how much heavier the plank have gotten! I'm the oldest in the shop so they watch out that I don't do something # % @.
  14. Richard, "Thank God I Am Not A Lefty" too. I was born in 1945 and witnessed the abuse they took, specially by the Nuns!! I did find the Wood Whisper Guild site, really nice, but $120 buys allot of Hard Maple. The vise locations are based on the space the bench will be in, tucked between the drill press and the overhead mortise. I'm liking they idea more and more of the split-top. I work in a shop with big machines and should have no problem making 1'x5' sections square and flat.
  15. Is it common to have a solid filler strip that can be lift up as a stop and how would this be done. I found the 2015 thread of construction of a split-top by a member named Greg. I'm a new-be at this site and am still trying to get around it and how to research it's past. I'm a slob, so an open slot is not a good idea, BUT I like the ability to have a fence to work against, my T-Track bench offers this. I had a tray bench at one point and it was a disaster for me. I would like to know more from pkinneb about the like features he uses.