Robhartley

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About Robhartley

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Working mainly on doing up an old house, cabinets, bathrooms etc however want to build chairs, lights and a solid work bench one day!

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  1. I have had the rails for about 2 years and not had any problems. However, it was the first really hot summer that I left them in my work shed. I'm guessing they got too hot and started to peel. I didn't use the joint cleaner ( lazyness and it backfired I guess!) and I'm guessing you are right that's why I'm having problems again. Unless you change blades and a new blade is thicker or thinner, I don't see why you would ever have to change the splinterguard.
  2. Hi All, I have a Festool TS55 and love it. The only issue i have is that the splinterguard on the bottom of the guide rail keeps coming unstuck and moving. i have noticed that it has shifted and then when i do a cut it will cut into the splinter guard which then causes me issue with alignment. i bought a replacement roll splinterguard but i am noticing the same thing is happening again at the ends. is anyone else having this issue? i have brought them into the house as I'm worried that maybe the high temps in the shed over the summer (i live in CA) is melting the glue. However, since replacing the spinterguard i have not had it in the shed and I'm still getting the peel back. Thoughts/feedback?
  3. sure. By light I'm guessing you mean window. We looked at many designed through Pinterest, houzz and stores and there didn't seem to be any rules to what side you put the window on. In the end it came down to personal preference. My wife and i liked the look nearer to the hinge side. But I can imagine some would prefer it nearer the handle. Each to their own ;-). Also that's the beauty of making things yourself, you get exactly what you want.
  4. Thanks K Cooper. As promised, here are the finished (nearly - have to stain to match windows) pictures of the door. Just got the trim up today. Thanks to everyone for the much needed advice. It really helped me go in the right direction and I'm really pleased with the finished result. also included is the before shots of old door.
  5. Okay K Cooper :-) , here are a couple of shots, during the build. i am finishing off the trim this weekend and will post the final shots. As you can see, i made a temporary bench. it was a pain as i dont have any ground that is truly flat. the concrete is old and cracked in many places. so i had to level the bench first on 2 workhorses. it all worked out well although i do have a slight bend in the finished door, although its not enough to cause me problems. it also could be due to the wood movement after laminating. you never truly know what the wood is going to do. the 3/4 inch core plywood helped a lot!
  6. looks awesome Brendon. i'm glad hear you get a great feeling when you look at it each day... you should :-) i think my door went a bit quicker because in reality it was simply a 3/4 inch plywood core and then 1/4 inch veneer on both sides. i quickly knocked up a bench outside under my porch and was able to leave it there the whole project. i also had someone else do the cutting of the veneer as i don't own a bandsaw, but got a great price on it.
  7. that looks interesting. i like the idea of having some around the shop and this price point makes it doable.
  8. ha ha, what have I started ;-)
  9. thanks everyone, some great ideas.
  10. Thanks shaney i'll check that out. hhh- i want to use it for marking mainly and to reduce tear out as show in marks video recently. i have a marking gauge but realize that its not always practical on irregular shapes and larger pieces. ohhhh i like this :-) christmas gift ideas for myself i think!
  11. Hi All, Just an update. I finished my door. Looking back at the comments i have to agree with Brendon on the time ;-) it felt like a never ending project, probably a good 3 weekends. However, i am looking at it now and I'm blown away with how good it looks. Also knowing the materials cost be about $600 (including glass) and i was quotes $1800 from the store, i feel fairly happy. Im sure it worked out that i was on about 50 cents an hr, but who cares ;-) i get to look at something i made for the next 10-15 years. i have just to put the trim around the door and then i'll add some pics. i ended up using a solid core marine plywood (as it's external and the guys where i bought the wood recommended this) and douglas fir vertical grain to make my own veneer 1/4 inch thick. so far so good. I'm eventually going to stain it to match our windows.
  12. Hi All, I don't own a marking knife as yet and looked on Amazon but they have mixed reviews and few options. Any suggestions on brands/models? Cheers Rob
  13. Thanks for the feedback. great advice. i will do the tempered glass and do the veneer. i think this will give me the look i want. i would buy the thing as i have other projects but I've been quoted $2000 from 2 places and home depot only do a cheap looking one and won't use clear glass. oh well, should be a fun project. yes, I'm going to keep using the current door jam, make it an easier project. i also bought this book, just waiting for it to be delivered. has some great reviews. http://amzn.com/1626548773 Doormaking: A Do-It-Yourself Guide
  14. Hi All, i am building my own external door. i want to build it out of Douglas fir as that will match the current doors and windows we have from Anderson. I've included an image of a door design we like. my issue is with wood movement. does anyone have a good resource or advice on building doors. i am worried about expansion and contraction as it is fitting into an existing door frame. What construction methods/joints should i use to keep this modern flat face look but not have an issue with wood movement? I once made a table top with an outer edge frame. the wood shrunk and i was left with gaps in between each piece. Beginner error but i am trying to learn ;-) fyi, i found an excellent glass company online that do dual panel in any size and seem very reasonable. https://www.onedayglass.com/products/sealed-window-units/
  15. Wow,hadnt even considered residual sap bleeding under the paint. Probably because I have only painted on poplar. Nice info. I'm learning a lot!