Arch Stanton

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About Arch Stanton

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 12/16/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Woodworking Interests
    Too many

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  1. You definitely want to calibrate the indicator line. More often than not, I use the middle width setting for all but one of the dominoes in a line, but I have made some with all on the narrow setting using a pencil to lay out tick marks and that worked just fine after I calibrated the indicator. If it's off, any error is doubled and you'll drive yourself crazy trying to figure out why things won't fit.
  2. And here I thought it was called that because I keep misplacing the stuff!
  3. Even where they're the same height, I'd use a transition piece because (as swiftyfrommi said) you'll have gaps (or it will buckle) when the floor moves.
  4. I'd be more inclined to not chamfer it at all and create a trim/transition piece that sits on top of the wood floor instead.
  5. It's not worth much but you could sell it for a few bucks or give it to someone looking to upgrade a contractor saw with stamped sheet metal wings.
  6. Dodged the flood myself, but strangely did lose power on Tuesday even though it barely rained at my house. I know a few people who were a lot less fortunate though.
  7. Honestly, I'm not sure. I'm not familiar with duck call mandrels, but maybe they make one that can thread on to the spindle? Or maybe they make one that works with a Jacobs or 4 jaw chuck that you can get for the threaded mandrel? I'm sure there's at least one message board out there dedicated to duck calls where someone can help. You might try the Woodturning and WoodChuckers groups on Facebook. Sorry.
  8. No help here either, but I can say that their Dust Deputies (both the little one and super sized) work wonderfully. I can only assume that their integrated system works at least as well and probably better.
  9. It's hard to tell for sure, but that looks like it may be threaded on and possibly not a morse taper. I'd take that drive spur off first to make sure what it is you're dealing with.
  10. Cool. That drive center is a tapered piece that just fits with friction. Most lathes have a hole that runs all the way through the headstock, so if you can't get it out easily you may be able to slide a bar in from the back side and tap it out that way.
  11. Could you post pictures? Is it a drive center that looks like this? All you should have to do is get 5/8" mandrel with the correct Morse taper for your lathe ('probably' a MT2, but it could be MT1).
  12. When I built mine, I ripped a 2x4 in half and ran them lengthwise along the underside of the table (glued and screwed from the top) just outside of the legs to help stiffen it. That worked well.
  13. The tablet stand is a great idea. Something like a toolbox is great to teach fundamentals, but it's probably not going to keep the attention of a 16-year-old for very long. A passive phone speaker amplifier might be good too. A cajon, maybe?
  14. I'm a little late to the party, but I got mine through here: https://shelixheads.com/SHELIX_for_dewalt_13_inch_Planer_(DW-735) $410 shipped and no sales tax.
  15. The grain in an apron does run perpendicular to a leg, but generally, they're not very wide and won't expand enough to matter. I can't think of any specific videos off the top of my head, but most of the better woodworkers take it into consideration and many of them at least mention it. I'd just suggest if you ever have a question about whether or not a design takes wood movement into consideration, that you post or link it here and ask what people think.