Mick S

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Mick S last won the day on November 15

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About Mick S

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    ....Santa Fe, NM
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, tools

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  1. There's nothing about the SS router table itself that would restrict using a guide bushing. The inserts determine if they're compatible. I have a set of Jessem (I believe) inserts and one of them does take PC bushings. FWIW, I saw a similar set to the one shown above at Harbor Freight the other day for $15.
  2. I'm thinking along the same lines as Drew. I have a 1" on one bandsaw and a 1/4" on the other. Covers about all I need. I have a few ½" as backups, but they haven't been on a saw for almost two years.
  3. What other joinery methods are you considering? M&T is definitely not overkill, it's the accepted method of construction for this type a piece. And as mentioned above, a dovetail on the top aprons would add even more mechanical strength. I don't know if you subscribe to Fine Woodworking or not, but Mike Pekovich wrote an excellent article on making a side table from a single board that is a great primer for this type of table. I use it as a project in my intro classes.
  4. Without knowing what "pretty large" is it's hard to answer, but I helped one of my students doing a bent laminated lamp, 5' tall and about 3" wide with 5 plies of pre-formed 1/4" MDF, hide glue on both faces on the inside laminations forming a double S curve and had plenty of time for adjustment. It probably took 20 minutes from first application to turning on the vacuum. I've used the Titebond II Extend a time or 2 and found it to be really thin - like milk. I could have gotten a bad batch, though.
  5. My go to is TB III on projects that aren't too large. On glue ups that take more time I've been using TB liquid Hide glue with good results. It's a little stringy, but bonds well and holds its shape.
  6. At some point I will. I'm thinking of starting a shop overhaul project. My shop is adjacent to a one car garage which isn't used as a garage. Wood storage, misc scraps, dust collector, etc., so, part of my shop. I also have a storage room that, if cleaned up and organized better, would handle all of what I have in the garage except the DC. My plan is to take a couple of months between semesters (NM is on lock down starting Monday - 12/1) to clean out the garage and move my bench, hand tools, assembly benches, etc into the garage. I also need to install better lighting and run some more c
  7. I had to resort to using the Egyptian stone moving technique - 4" PVC tube rollers - to get this inside. It helped me make an executive decision, though. Shipping weight on this was 610 lbs. Net weight is just under 400. My slider coming next month comes in at just under 1400 lbs. I'm calling a rigger.
  8. This has been one of, if not the most interesting projects I've seen on this forum. I would have to be a much younger man to even think of undertaking it. Beautiful job start to finish! And perfectly timed since all the cinemas are mothballed for now. I think the premier should be the new Bond flick, appropriately named No Time To Die. I believe it's due in (other, lesser) theaters now in April. I'll DM you my address for the invitation.
  9. I just went over different methods to use for cutting tenons in one of my intro classes. Bandsaw, tablesaw with tenoning jig, tablesaw with tenoning jig using a spacer block (index off the same face and add a spacer the thickness of the tenon plus the actual kerf of the blade) and tablesaw with box fixture straddling the fence with a vertical slider. By far the most consistent results were with the TS box fixture followed by the bandsaw then the jig with spacer. My buddy Carl has been trying to give me a TS tenoning jig since the day I met him. I've never been able to get repeatable resul
  10. Mick S

    Hijack!

    Ahh, the Christmas catalog came today, aka the Fine Woodworking Tools & Shops issue!
  11. Mick S

    Hijack!

    Says who? I publish one semi-annually.
  12. I just set it next to the catbox.
  13. My knee jerk reaction was the same as Coop's - the real problem is the restricted wood movement. I agree that for pine the oil looks like what I would expect. If the wood inside the outer, box-jointed frame is solid wood there's no place for it to expand in the wetter months and no way for it to contract in the drier months. If it were up to me, I would cut the ends off before doing any more finish work and apply proper, already stained breadboard ends.
  14. Very well done! You are definitely the chairmeister!