Mick S

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Mick S last won the day on October 21 2019

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About Mick S

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    ....Santa Fe, NM
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, tools

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  1. Way to go, Collin! Nice to be appreciated for your efforts. Now you can make some money off of the project since the development has already been done. I never seem to break even on the first one of anything if I'm being honest about my time.
  2. Are you running currently using any other CAD/CAM software for other-than-cabinet projects like Aspire, EnRoute, AlphaCam, MasterCam, etc? CV is great software, BTW.
  3. The rep at the Felder open house in November told me that it will be introduced at IWF in August, but probably not available for sale until some time after that. I spent most of my career on the supply side for commercial cabinet shops, primarily CNC routers but traditional machinery also, and I tend to agree with @woodenskye. The CNC will be more efficient for the panel products and a traditional TS will suit you for the solid stock. This is especially true if you do high end cabinetry, e.g. corbels, etc. or use traditional high-end joinery. With that said, I would lean toward to SS ICS for safety reasons primarily. All the saws you mentioned are good saws. I'm retired, but now teach CNC and traditional woodworking at the local community college part time. We have 8? Sawstops between 4 classroom/shops. We had one instance last semester where the technology saved a woman's finger. We average about 1 trip per year, usually from someone getting an Incra miter gauge too close. $79 is pretty cheap insurance in my opinion. I'm curious to know what software you'll be running on the CNC.
  4. My take on correcting misalignment is if there’s drag on the backside of the blade as the wood passes from front to back that affects the cut e.g. burning or scratching. If you do decide it needs correction it’s a 10 minute fix. SS has a pivot in the front of the table and adjusting screws on either side of the back. Loosen 4 table bolts and the screw on the side you need to pivot toward then tighten the opposing screw. Re tighten the table bolts and that’s it.
  5. Here are photos of two pages from the Iturra catalog I referenced above. Looks like he has a number of options available.
  6. I got his catalog within a week or so of the request. I've read elsewhere that it sometimes takes much longer.
  7. I'll forward my address. I would highly recommend requesting a catalog from Iturra Design. His catalog has pretty much all you need to know about bandsaws, including setup, tensioning, replacement parts, tension gauges, accessories, etc. A true wealth of information. I don't see how he can send out what he sends out without charging for it. Iturra Design 1-904-642-2802 Toll Free: 888-722-7078 Email: iturradesign@gmail.com 4636 Fulton Road Jacksonville, Florida 32225-1332
  8. I believe I'd begin by repositioning the thrust bearings - the bearings mounted perpendicularly and behind the blade above and below the table. You'll probably need to remove the blade completely to do this adjustment. I'm not familiar enough with that model Jet to know if they're on an eccentric or if the posts they mount to are hexagonal going into the mounting fixture. Either way, they can be repositioned by rotating the mounting stem so that the blade rides roughly in line with the first outermost concentric circle (you have an outer circumference, then several inner concentric circles making up the bearing). On yours, one is too far outside and one is way too far inside. The photo below is on an Inca bandsaw, but the position of the blade relative to the thrust bearing is what you're shooting for. Before you start, back the side guides completely away from the blade so that they don't influence the blade position at all. Once the thrust bearings are positioned correctly and the blade is at proper tension, then adjust the side guides so that they are set about the thickness of a $100 bill folded in half from the blade. Once you have it tracking correctly forward the bill to the address I'm sending you via DM.
  9. I would not add a dowel to it. Nothing to be gained. I would recommend heeding the advice above and narrow the box joints to take advantage of more glue surface. If I'm reading your post right, you only have 5 glue surfaces on each end. Narrowing the width of the joints to 2 ½" would give 2X the glue surface and still be divisible by the individual board widths. The wood is plenty strong to hold up at 1.5" thickness as long as the joinery is sound. 1.25" box joints would be ideal.
  10. Sorry, I just saw this post. I have the 420 V2. Looks like they gave this one 4.5 stars out of 5.
  11. If I'm in doubt about open time I go with Kev's recommendation of epoxy. I had a student this semester who made a box jointed tool cabinet - lots of glue surfaces. I recommended that he use epoxy. He went with T3 on the first two joints and had all kinds of trouble getting them together and squared in time. He switched to epoxy and you could see the relief on his face. The noted on open times on the labels are best case scenarios. If you're in a dry climate, high altitude in mid-summer cut the times in half.
  12. Another option would be to edge band a plywood core, then veneer over the faces. This has the added benefit of no expansion or contraction if the drawers are to be inset. I did that on these desk drawers.
  13. I'm really looking forward to how you approach this project!
  14. We have a 16" Northfield at school. Wonderful machine that's been retrofitted with a Byrd cutterhead.