Mick S

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Everything posted by Mick S

  1. Wow, almost forgot I had this journal going. Classes finish up for the semester this week, so I should be able to get back to it soon. The only issue with brad points is that sometimes the spur isn't centered well, but yes, many people do just that.
  2. I don't want to get into it regarding any of the above comments regarding clamping pressure. I'll just post this link to a video produced by Franklin, the makers of Titebond glue. I think it speaks for itself. http://www.titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af#
  3. What type of glue are you using? On very light woods some glues will make the glue line stick out like a sore thumb. Titebond III is great for darker woods, but for lighter woods I'd use Titebond II. Since it's a vanity and may be subject to some water here and there, I'd stay away from original Titebond for this application. I like both suggestions above. Make sure your fence is at 90 to the jointer tables. It sounds like your jointer tables may be a little high on the ends, which would result in gaps near the ends of a longer edge joint.
  4. Great job, Chet! I like everything about them. Curious, are those through tenons on the top or decorative plugs, or both?
  5. I didn't see any "Members only" flags on the link to this video, but there may be. Michael Fortune video on cutting curves with a bandsaw. Note his practice of riding the piece against the side of the blade. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/04/22/how-to-cut-curves-on-the-bandsaw
  6. When you say peaks and valleys, are you talking about the ridges from the set of the teeth or about the blade drifting slightly along the cut?
  7. Nice, Dave. She'll love it! And I agree, you pulled off the pulls!
  8. I'm thinking about a dovetail also, just not a sliding dovetail. hard to describe, but doable. What if you mortised out an area on the underside of the top immediately to the right of the vertical member (VM). The mortise would be about an inch shorter than the width of the VM and the same thickness. Depth would be ½ the overall thickness of the top. Where the VM will meet the top, cut dovetail pins. Cut dovetail tails into the end of the VM to match, slide the VM into place via the mortise and plug the mortise. Sort of like a stopped half blind dovetail.
  9. WB poly always looks greenish to me. Kind of a greenish tint to it.
  10. She was kinda the Swiss army knife of goddesses.
  11. Does it include a foot massage or just the sole?
  12. Hope You heal up quickly on both counts. The 8 degree Whiteside dovetail bit that comes with it should easily last through 10 drawers - times 10. One thing I'll remind you of is that once you have the depth set for the tails, lock both front AND back stops in place. That keeps you from inadvertently pulling the cutter straight back, which will ruin the joint. Another tip, if you haven't already figured it out, is to trust the machine as much as possible and focus on the guide bearing and template rather than the bit and workpiece. That's where mistakes are made. It's a very ver
  13. @ririzarry https://www.woodcraft.com/products/4-hose-splice-dust-collection-fitting?via=573621bd69702d0676000002%2C576455d369702d2f2f0013a2%2C5764563569702d3c42000bea Use the Fernco 5 x 4 fitting instead of the 4 x 4 to connect to the bandsaw. My saw has a 4" fitting, but my Hammer J/P has a 5". I got the fitting at Lowes.
  14. The current S440P model is now being made by ACM in Italy for SCM. Mine was purchased before they switched to ACM from Centauro, so my saw is not exactly the same as yours. Shouldn't matter, though. Most American made saws have crowned tires, meaning that there is a slight curvature to them. On that style of tire you should track the blade with the back of the gullets slightly in front of the crown. European bandsaws have flat tires, and are designed to have the blade track with the gullet just over the front edge of the upper tire.
  15. Consider me impressed! How did you cut the breadboard ends?
  16. Mick S

    Bees!

    So now you've got me started on a new target date for getting mine built. Good summer project for me. Thanks for posting this!
  17. One thing to keep in mind when "trying" to use the tension gauge on your saw is that it's relative to the thickness of the blade. My big bandsaw has a note on the bottom of the gauge that says .019". That means that the gauge is set for blade stock .019" thick. Since I use it almost exclusively for resawing, I keep a 1" blade on it that's .035" thick. That means the gauge is way off for what I normally do with the saw. I have an Iturra blade tension gauge and properly tensioned, the gauge reads almost twice as high as the marks indicate.
  18. Wow, that's wonderful and very well deserved! Congrats!
  19. Beauty. I'd love to see a review once you've had for a while. Michael Fortune seems to use his extensively.
  20. As others have correctly said, cherry definitely darkens over time. Walnut lightens. Mesquite darkens ate the same rate as cherry. Don't ask me how I know. If you want the freshly surfaced color of cherry without the darkening, consider using alder as an alternative. It does not darken, but may get a little lighter.
  21. That is some knockout figure in the panels! Very nice.
  22. We're pushing to get a couple of PantoRouters for the school. When we were working on the student desk project I took mine up to use for doing the chairs. It was pretty much unanimous that we need to ditch the hybrid Davis & Wells / Robland slot mortisers and replace them with P'Routers. That said, last week we replaced the clunky cam clamp table on one with a MatchFit clamp system. It made a huge difference in their usability, so we'll probably hang on to them for at least another year after replacing the table on the other two.
  23. That's exactly what I use. Auto on and off when you're using the router. I strongly suggest getting an auxiliary switch like this. It makes it much more convenient. https://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch