Mick S

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Everything posted by Mick S

  1. I would look into bending ply - special plywood that bends and can be formed to a radius. It comes in 4 x 8 or 8 x 4 sheets in varying thicknesses. I've used it on a few projects and found it very easy to work with. http://packardforestproducts.com/bending-plywood/
  2. Sometimes you just have to find ways to amuse yourself.
  3. Did you dye the dinizia, since it's normally very reddish? Never mind, just went back and reread the post.
  4. I have the 7518 in my lift and have been happy with it. Sometimes the speed control is a bit wishy-washy, but it's performed well, all in all. My brother got one and used it for a week and sent it back for speed control issues and replaced it with the Portamate. He's been happy with it.
  5. My trick, from many years of using it on CNCs is to place the point of a knife aiming from the center of the piece of tape to a corner, just inside the corner. Prick through the film pushing the knife toward the corner and lift. Again, the knife is pointing from the inside to outside right near the corner. The film will stretch and lift right off.
  6. I've been happy using Shurtape from Lowes paint department in 2" wide rolls for CNC applications and one time pattern routing, etc. Doesn't take much.
  7. Not always, Mark. The majority of my bits are solid carbide one piece router bits. I suspect the one he's using is solid carbide. And ditto ditto on the template.
  8. For those interested, here's a really good video of the utility of the PantoRouter for making chairs -
  9. Also, I’d recommend using a round nose bit for a drip groove. Much easier to clean.
  10. Send me the address. I'll make sure you have beer!
  11. Required Staff is my middle name!
  12. 1. It's in my shop 2. For joinery it's much easier and faster than programming and fixturing on a CNC. 3. It's very difficult to do things like dovetails and box joints on a CNC. I've done mortises on a CNC fairly often, but the setup, locating, etc is something of a pain. CNCs are great for lots of things, but not for everything. PS - Next time you're up in this area let me know. Happy to demo it for you!
  13. I saw it too late to post before the event, but Fine Woodworking just hosted a free webinar with Bob Van Dyke of the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking. He discussed making jigs for routing curves on a router table. Tom McKenna will be posting the whole thing to their website soon. Nice job Bob and Tom!
  14. Mick S

    Drill bits

    Hmmm. I just ordered a set on Monday and got the shipping confirmation from UPS this morning. Not really, just kidding. But I did order a medium shoulder plane and some small cutters for my router plane from them last week and they arrived yesterday.
  15. All the above are good responses. What you're seeing is really pretty common due to a couple of things. 1. Plunging or entering the cut too slowly, then hesitating before you actually start the channel. 2. Spinning the tool too fast for the feedrate and 3. moving the router forward too slowly. The #1 cause of dulling any tool is excessive heat buildup. It's not because the wood is hard or abrasive, it's heat. Heat forms when the tool is not ejecting chips efficiently and quickly. The heat stays in the chips and surrounds the tool causing it to burn. Once the tool burns it loses its temper and dulls very quickly. Turn the rpm down and move the router faster. This causes the chips to be thicker. Thicker chips carry more heat away from the tool. One other comment - the tool you're using is a very aggressive bit originally designed for CNC routers where you can control the rpm and feedrate much better than you can by hand. That bit really pulls down and into the cut. The heavier the cut the more the tendency. Try either taking several shallower passes as has been recommended above or switch to a less aggressive tool like a two flute straight bit. The helix on your bit is very high.
  16. I'm sure that many on this forum can attest that woodworking has played a big part in helping to get them through many a tough time. I include myself in that many times over. Welcome to the forum. We're glad to help where we can.
  17. You and my wife would
  18. Where'd you get that big penny?
  19. It's kinda like being from Texas.
  20. That's wise. As I mentioned, there is a learning curve to it. Best, IMO, to start with the basics. My first custom template with be for cutting stopped dados in the sides of drawer parts. Simple but easier than doing it on a router table or tablesaw.
  21. Yes. In most cases, it's the same template in the same location. For the tenons (dowels) the guide bearing runs on the outside of the donut shaped template. For the mortise (dowel holes) it goes on the inside. Here's a link to a pantorouter with the inventor making a Knapp joint - a very fancy multiple dowel joint.
  22. Yes, including making the dowel.
  23. No kidding. I've never seen a CNC router used manually before. Cool concept. Not certain why he would do that rather than just programming it. but whatever floats your boat!