Mick S

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Everything posted by Mick S

  1. Mick S


    I picked up a copy of Beekeeping for Dummies. I'm going to get with a friend of a friend who's a hobbyist beekeeper for a little assistance in getting up and running. Just as an aside, do you know the pros and cons of the Langstroth hive and the Euro style bee cradles? Just curious because Felder/Hammer has a video and plans for making a cradle. Hammer Bee Cradle Edit: I just watched this video for the first time in a couple of years. I forgot how it gave me the willies watching him reach behind the blade while ripping narrow stock. NOT a good idea!
  2. Here's a photo of the dust collector fittings I got today to hook up the new saw and sander. All I got was a box of flex hose - no fittings. Two boxes, one tracking number, just the hose. Now I have to make a new plan for the weekend. I'm starting with scotch.
  3. Happy Birthday, Coop! I've heard good things about that saw. And happy, happy retirement!
  4. Don't we both wish! WhataShinerBock, anyone? I Photoshopped it.
  5. Coop is a fine man. I received these from him in the mail today!
  6. I have an answer he'll love!
  7. I think you're the best one to make that determination. Here's what i would recommend: Once the leg pieces are milled and prepped for assembly, practice the glue up dry two or three times so that you can get the hang of it. Then use mineral spirits in the place of the epoxy, applying it just as you would the epoxy and time the whole process. Once you're comfortable that it will take 8 minutes or 14 minutes or whatever, add about 5 minutes to that to give you the actual glue up time. Epoxy is slickery stuff and your pieces may want to creep on you, so be prepared for that in your pra
  8. No, but Aviva has taken several of my classes and is a good friend, so I’m always happy to do what I can for her. She has a commission for these doors but had never made one.
  9. Teaching one of my students to make a five piece door and how to use the new slider. She's a quick study.
  10. ASAP. I had my annual physical yesterday. Doc said he thinks it will be at least another 2 weeks before i see my first dose.
  11. Welcome! This is the bible on wood finishing - https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Finishing-Comprehensive-Troubleshooting/dp/1565235665/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=finishing+furniture&qid=1611329785&sr=8-12
  12. As long as there's no wiggle movement in the opening you should be fine. If there is, a little blue tape along the edge of the base will sometimes do the trick.
  13. Hi Jon, and welcome to the forum. My Woodpeckers lift is not attached to the table. It just rests on the leveling screws and the weight of the router motor and lift hold it in place. If the insert is flat there shouldn't be a need to screw it down.
  14. Also, don't cut the tenon to the full depth of the mortise. Stop it about 1/32" - 1/16" shy so that the glue being pressed into the mortise will have some place to go. If the joint is really tight, the hydraulic pressure created can force it apart if you don't allow for it.
  15. It's not time to change your chain Just relax, take it easy You're still young, that's your fault There's so much you have to cut through Find a burl, settle down If you want you can marry Look at me, I am dull, but I'm happy
  16. Hope it heals soon! Bagged coffee closures. I like Dunkin Donuts coffee, but the bags it comes in are so hard to open that I've stopped trying. I started cutting them open and dumping it in a jar. And if you get the bigger quantities it comes in a huge single use plastic container. I've switched to bulk beans and grind it myself.
  17. That's very cool - what a great gift to your grandson! He'll remember that forever.
  18. Pricey here, too. I'm very happy with it. Buy once, cry once. Like all J/P combos, there are some drawbacks. Having to raise and lower the planer table every time you switch over can be a pain. I worked around that by making this - This isn't my first J/P combo, I've also owned Inca, Elektra Beckum, Minimax (back in the '80s when they first came out hit our shores) and Luna (Swedish). The Hammer is much better than any of them. I have no experience with the Jet, but it gets good reviews over here.
  19. Edit: Misunderstood your question. Yes, the trim on the cloud lifts are single pieces, cut on the bandsaw and cleaned up on a spindle sander. I paid careful attention to the grain, color and figure to match up with the stretchers. And yes, you have to be very careful of the grain orientation, particularly if you're using a trim bit in a router. Going uphill is a definite risk - always rout downhill with the grain. I was also careful to have the grain on the sides, front and back match the orientation of the lines of the chair. Note the falling grain that mirrors the curvature of the arms on t
  20. No, or at least not in the Prius I had. After we moved out to Santa Fe, mice got into the drive battery compartment and chewed through the wiring. No battery power, but I was able to drive it to the Toyota dealership 25 miles away. It was 10 years old and 185,000 miles - the repairs would have cost more than the car's value so I donated it to Kars for Kids.
  21. I did one a few years back. I really enjoyed the build. Here's a link to some discussion on it. One thing I strayed from Marc's process on was the through tenons on the arms. Since the legs were veneered with mesquite I didn't want the cherry core to show through the top, so I stopped the tenon about ¼" shy of the top surface of the arm and made caps from mesquite to finish them off. One advantage was it being easier to get a perfect fit on the caps. I also made the chair about 2" taller to make it easier to get in and out of.
  22. No experience with the Camry, but I had a Prius for 10 years. Most reliable vehicle I ever owned. The only thing I ever had done was to have a service writer bend the little metal tab back that holds the gas door shut at my 100,000 mile inspection. Zero service cost (other than routine maintenance) in 10 years. Never needed a brake job. Nothing.
  23. Yes, because she was using a keyhole bit. They don't bore very well even though technically they can. With keyhole bits, I usually drill out the starter hole and use a ⅛" endmill to clear the slot before switching to the keyhole bit. I've broken a few before going to that method.
  24. Nice job on the jig and the description. I built one of Morley's mortisers a couple of years back. I wound up modifying it because of the loss of depth that results from the bit going through the top piece before it ever contacts the workpiece. You lose ¾" right off the bat. I kept the Morley base design and added ideas from a Fine Woodworking video and Derek Cohen that uses a runner in a slot and the micro-adjust fence for my router. Here's a quick video of a couple of my students using it. In this one Aviva is using it to cut a keyhole slot.