Pwk5017

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Pwk5017 last won the day on July 16

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About Pwk5017

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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    Anything.

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  1. Pwk5017

    This time I was not a day late and a dollar short

    How much? Looks like a sweet score. You sure that bottom wide board is cherry? Looks dark like mahogany. Given your location, 30+ years ago mahogany would possibly be more common than cherry, no?
  2. Pwk5017

    Time to say goodbye

    It is a little weird. 20” Griggio from the late 80s. Damn thing almost did me in moving it into my basement shop. Battled with it for a few hours before I finally got it into position. I need a new space, I think I outgrew my basement 3+ years ago.
  3. Pwk5017

    Time to say goodbye

    Whelp, the old girl is going to a new home. It’s a bit strange, but I’m a little sad to see this one go. I couldn’t wait to see the back of my DJ20 when I upgraded to this grizzly, but this was a really really solid performer for me. Never had to touch the beds despite traveling a couple hundred miles to get here. Made a lot of money and a lot of projects with this one. I felt the same way when selling my first table saw, a delta contractor saw from the early 90s. The Unisaw that replaced it was better in every possible way, but didn’t have the same history.
  4. Pwk5017

    Japanese vs Western Chisels

    Dont have any experience with japanese chisels, but ive always been interested. Not sure how sold i am on the hollow grind. Sure, it makes flattening easier/faster, but flattening a western chisel isnt that awful. Whats more, now you have the entire back as a flat reference surface. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, i like the idea of a set of japanese chisels. With how little hand tool work i do, the fact is 1-2 PMV11s from veritas would be the best fit. In line with Derek's review, they seem to do it all reasonably well. They pare well and can handle light/medium chopping as well. My perception of the japanese bench chisels is they arent as well rounded. If i went that route, i might skip the bench chisels and get a few paring chisels and a few mortise chisels. Has anyone ever looked at the vintage japanese chisels on ebay? Tons of lots for sale ranging from a whole roll of timber framing slicks and chisels to something more in line with what we are discussing. I dont know enough about japanese chisels to make an informed decision when buying new, let alone vintage stuff, but they sometimes catch my eye. Unlike western chisels from 50-100 years ago, the old japanese chisels should be of similar hardness and quality as their contemporary counterparts, right?
  5. Pwk5017

    Felder AD941

    Its this guy https://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/6651650729.html Its a 700 series, and i think they stopped making a 20" combo in the 700 series in the late 90s. Dont quote me on when production stopped, but ive never seen a chartreuse era 700 series 51 cm machine. I think they switch colors from the dark green to lime green around 2003ish. Now you can only get a 900 series 20" machine or the Dual51. I just paid less than that for a 20" jointer, but $3500 is a pretty good price on a 20" combo. They certainly do not come up often on the used market. Honestly, finding a 20" jointer worth owning was quite a struggle for me. There was a Dual 51 in california months ago for something close to ten grand, i think theres a 751 on ebay for $8-9k, some 20" italian combo from the 70s-80s i didnt recognize for $2500 in upstate new york, and thats just about it for 20" combos in the last 12+ months. Recapping it makes the orlando machine seem like a bit of a bargain. I can only remember 3-4 stand a lone 20" jointers of the last 1-2 years too. Anything over 12" doesnt seem to be that common on the auction sites or craigslist. I havent used too many 900 series machines, but i do have a 700 series KF700, and its a decent step up to the 900s. I have no idea what pricing is on the JP or saws between 700 and 900, but i always seemed to think the 900 was just a little more. I also prefer the blue over the charcoal gray. Kind of a lame transition from a sweet green to charcoal gray.
  6. Pwk5017

    Felder AD941

    Just saw this and not sure if used interests you, but there is a 20" felder combo for sale in the southeast, if i remember correctly. Maybe Florida or Georgia? It was $3-3500 3 phase. Obviously not as plug and play as a new unit from the factory, but thought i would pass along if you had any interest. I can personally vouch for how annoying and frustrating it is to transport machines like these, but so far its been worth it. Knock on wood that holds true for my latest delivery on wednesday.
  7. Agreed, thats a $400-500 machine in my neck of the woods. Plenty of DJ-20s up here for $800ish, and most people would pay a couple hundred more to upgrade over yours. Still, yours is a good machine for someone with a budget and no jointer.
  8. Pwk5017

    CL buy of the week

    I bought the same model about a year ago for $450-500 along with a ton of chisels. This guy had 1/4" all the way to 1", and most were still in plastic with cosmoline. I used it for one project, and decided it wasnt for me. I later sold it for $725, which was lower than what i thought it was worth, but didnt want to be overly greedy. With a domino 700, a medium duty HCM is absolutely obsolete. It is painfully slow compared to the domino, and that doesnt include making the matching integral tenon to fit the mortise. Anything over 5/8" on the PM felt like i was taxing the machine, and thats precisely where i would want a HCM for the job. If i ever find myself with an abundance of shop space, i wouldnt mind picking up one of the older hydraulic foot operated machines. This is a great buy, Tom. If it fits the work you do, great, if not, always nice to know you have a bit of equity sitting there fr when you need it.
  9. Pwk5017

    Delta Unisaw 36-L53L opinions?

    5hp left tilt saw, what’s not to like for $600? I have a right tilt ‘99 I bought for $150. A couple years later, it’s held its settings perfectly. I used to have to adjust my delta contractor saw every couple months.
  10. Pwk5017

    Planer eastern oregon

    Haha I won’t count my chickens until they hatch. Still need it to get here from Long Island. Should be tomorrow. Pretty excited to get it in my space and get it running. Not looking forward to moving it. 20” wide, 106”ish long, and a tersa cutterblock. If you don’t mind the hassle of moving that machine, it’s better built with better features than a comparable new. Comparing that to my powermatic 209hh, I’m sure it weighs a few hundred pounds more. It has a segmented infeed roller, which mine does not. It should have a pressure bar, which mine does, but all 15”ers do not. I don’t know if I’d be interested for $800, but for $500, I might. That particular machine doesn’t look like it’s had the easiest life. https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-planer/6650472049.html thats a good buy too if you ever see them for sale. They usually had variable speed feeds, offer 9”+ In thickness, and are a heavy build. For just about any of these machines, you have to be prepared to move them and deal with an issue or two along the way. About 95% of people see 3 phase and 1500lbs and that turns them away instantly.
  11. Pwk5017

    Planer eastern oregon

    Yep, Tom is right on the sizes. Im almost positive there was a 20" model in there, the 221. There is a 24" model close to me that is absolutely mint looking. For $4000, eh, not too interested. I havent used one of these Powermatic planers, but I know they are stout workhorses. They also occupy an enormous footprint for their capacity. Im not sure how many amps that 5hp motor draws, but im assuming its around 15 amps(3phase, keep in mind). If thats the case, you can get a VFD from Jack shipped to you for under $400 including him walking you through how to wire it. Im doing that right this minute for a 20" griggio jointer i bought.
  12. Pwk5017

    Another Broken Bandsaw Blade

    Huxley has blades and tension on lock down, clearly. I will only add that I have a resale king from 2004 that is still in action. 20” ACM saw.
  13. Out of curiosity, how much were the bids? Seems like there should be room in there for a new tool+materials. I had the 500 for a year or so, and sold it off for the 700 months ago. The 700 is an upgrade in just about every measurable way. It feels like a second gen tool. I love the examples you included. I dream of having a master closet big enough to handle that level of cabinetry. I have a 5hp shaper with a feeder and I doubt I would make my own Moulding. It would have to be something extraordinarily different for me to go through the expense and hassle. Really for tall crown, you want a moulder and not a shaper or router table. I see shop fox units or the William and hussey ones pop up for pretty cheap every once in awhile. It’s something better left to a mill work shop with a legit setup.
  14. A local client had her furniture damaged during a move, and wants me to replace the cracked stone tops with cherry. Aside from chiseling away glued down stone for an hour and a half, no big deal. My question concerns attaching the replacement tops to the furniture. I was going to rotex the top free of debris and glue, followed by drilling a couple oversized holes in the subtops to drive screws with washers into the replacement tops from below. Giving each screw a bit of wiggle room will be enough for wood movement, but im wondering if it is a problem to trap one face of a panel against another surface?
  15. Pwk5017

    Sapele Sideboard

    Personally, I would have epoxied those and moved on. Sapele does develop those micro checks regardless of grade. Hard to even notice they exist when the wood is in the rough.