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About Pwk5017

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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  1. A couple of shop improvements

    Yeah, that sled is one of the better ones ive seen. What does the stop telescope to?
  2. DC CL MM16

    Double check before you buy it. I want to say 2003 was prior to that model having 16” resaw and the bigger motor. The early 2000s were 10-12” resaw and a 3hp or less motor. The newest rendition is 16” resaw and 4.8hp, I believe. They changed the table trunnion design as well. In short, the earlier model is noticeably inferior in design to the newer model.
  3. know this brand slider???

    Idk the height control for a shaper seems incredibly awesome. You could stack your cope and stick cutters and then use the predetermined height settings to jump between the two with virtually no downtime. For a saw that's not as important, but I'd love to have an electronic rip and crosscut fence. Like a tiger stop, for example. You can definitely find a solid machine for your budget. I was under that for my saw/shaper. Patience with Craigslist almost always produces results.
  4. know this brand slider???

    Italian manufacturer, i think. I want to say they are similar to casadei who was purchased by SCMI group. That looks like a huge saw with a 10'+ stroke.
  5. Laguna customer service

    In light of the recent thread bashing laguna’s customer service, they just did me a solid by sending me a new in box resaw king today after their ceramic guide came loose and messed up my other RK. In my email to their customer service, I offered that they offer me a complimentary sharpening. Instead, they just sent me a new blade. Normally, I don’t like to publicize these things because I don’t like the idea of holding companies hostage for free crap or you put them on blast in a public forum(like the other thread did), but in this case they went above and beyond when they truly didn’t have to. I wouldn’t have been pleased about sending my blade in for sharpening again, but it was fair in my mind.
  6. Paying For Forrest Blade Sharpening

    Im sure forrest does an awesome job, and i was about to send a bunch of blades to them until someone at sawmill creek suggested dynamic. This video of their machine and their price list did it for me. I attached my actual invoice for what i sent to them a couple months ago. They do jointer/planer blades too. Check the prices back to the Forrest website, they are almost half off. Your stuff, your choice, but most pros consider forrest to be grossly overpriced.
  7. Paying For Forrest Blade Sharpening

    Don’t want to muddy the waters, but consider Dynamic Saw in Buffalo. They have some wacky advanced Cnc sharpener and I found them to be very reasonable. I sent them half a dozen festool, Forrest, and Felder blades and I think it was under or around $100 total. I found my local sharpener to be alright. They are cheap, but I don’t think they did a fantastic job. When it comes to sharpening a $100+ blade, I want to know the grind angle is perfect and consistent on every tooth.
  8. The Woodworking Shows

    I havent been to a show, but ill probably go to an IWF in vegas or atlanta when im ready to put together my last shop. Supposed to have good deals, and when else are you going to compare SCMI, Martin, Felder, etc under one roof?
  9. Guild Jewelry Box Wood

    Yeah, i felt like i was flying through this one. I spent a good amount of the morning and early afternoon on it yesterday, and i have the case done and my drawers sized up. I think im going to skip the half bind recessed dovetails. They look cool, and im sure the exercise would be a rewarding challenge, but marc saying it took him 4+ hours to do one drawer was enough for me to find an alternative! Value-engineering out the dovetails, i can crank through all the drawers tonight and tomorrow. There might actually be a chance of finishing this prior to V-day. That wasnt my original intention, but my wife asked me what i was working on yesterday, and after learning what it was, let out a, "awwww is this for valentine's day? that is sweet". I went along with it, naturally. The first impression of small projects is how inexpensive the lumber is! This crotch is off a 12/4 chunk i purchased a set of for $20 a chunk. It was the top of a walnut crotch that some homeowner cut in half(idiot), but my local sawyer sawed and dried it anyways. Each one is 40"+/- wide and maybe 20" long. The sad part is the crotch feather would have extended another 10-15" had the person not cut it in half. Be that as it is, 12/4+ still gives me plenty of crotch figure to resaw into workable parts. In this case, the most intense figure was 10-11" wide by 18". I plan to use the three resaws for the drawerfronts and each side panel. The side panels are bookmatches and sequential to the drawerfront. The fronts have the most intense figure to them and it started to lose some of the intensity as i worked my way through the thickness. Aside from the nice crotch figure in the middle of each piece, the subsequent trunks that converged to make the crotch were 100% vertical grain. I took these leftover pieces and resawed them into my rails, stiles, and bottom. The mahogany stock i used is stuff i almost would have thrown away, so this project is about $20-30 in total lumber costs. Compare that to $350-400 in walnut for two nightstands and im loving the small project. Flip side is the brusso hardware will put a dent in my wallet. That looks like $75-100 for a few teeny tiny hinges.
  10. Laguna Ceramic Insert

    Yeah, i shot them a note yesterday. I havent really dealt with their CS department yet, so im hoping they dont jerk me around for three weeks until i give up. I dont think anything is damaged, just want the blade resharpened(bummer, because that is 2-3 weeks of downtime), and tell me what adhesive to use to stick the insert back in. It was a bummer, because that is my only resaw/ripping blade. I only have 1/2" and 3/8" blades on hand that are not ideal for resawing, but i went ahead with them anyways. After taking all the guides off, the 1/2" resawed through 11-12" of walnut pretty nicely. Just slowed the feedrate to half of the resaw king.
  11. Laguna Ceramic Insert

    I received my resaw king back from laguna's sharpening service sometime after the new year. It stayed in the box until this weekend, as i had no real need for intensive resawing the last month. About 3 minutes after installing the blade and beginning my cut, i heard a pronounced ceramic on steel noise and my cut immediately began to drift in a big way. I shut the machine down and gave everything a once over until finding one of the lower guide's inserts had come loose. Has anyone heard of this before? I thought these inserts were friction fit and would never come out, but this one is incredibly loose and sloppy. Within seconds it dulled the crap out of the left side of the resaw king. The right side of each tooth still feels sharp, which is probably why it drifts so badly now. Curious if i need to tap on the other inserts to see if they are loose. Sucks to have a fresh blade get toasted like that when im in the middle of needing to resaw a decent amount.
  12. Guild Jewelry Box Wood

    Yes, of course it wont expired, but I rarely work on small projects and i only have one board. I have several pieces of lumber that are "some day" pieces, and all of them annoy me in some fashion or another. I have three 20-22" wide 10/4 that are 10-11' wide stacked next to my slider that i continually have to step around or on. The one stick of bubinga is less offensive, but it is with my other bubinga offcuts, mahogany leftovers, and random bits of exotics that are in the swing path of my bandsaw's doors. You all did convince me to save it for another day, and i ended up making the interior out of mahogany, with an all walnut exterior. The drawer sides, bottoms, and backs will be mahogany too. I havent decided what ill do for the pulls. I might still do them out of bubinga, but I might go for something darker than walnut that i have in small pieces. I have some insignificant amounts of rosewood, ebony, and cocobolo that might work.
  13. Guild Jewelry Box Wood

    Thinking about starting this project soon, but i want help on what to use where. Im not in love with Marc's combo on the outside of the box. Namely, i usually dislike a mixed species frame and panel. I like the interior of the case contrasting with the drawerfronts, and think i will maintain that. For the two swing out doors and drawer fronts, i plan to use walnut like marc. I have some thick walnut crotch blanks that i can do the drawerfronts and/or door panels. i plan to keep the frame, lid, and base pretty basic grain/figure. I have one board of bubinga left over that could be used as a secondary species. I might use the bubinga for the interior case sides, drawer pulls, and maybe drawer sides. I certainly dont have to use it, but i only have one 6/4 board leftover that is 6" by 70". Pretty soon it needs to be used or sold. A small project seems like a good use for it. Has anyone done something different than the plans?
  14. How do you budget for tools?

    Ive gone out on a limb a few times, but for the most part i never buy anything that i already havent banked from woodworking or that i wont recoup in the next month or two. The one purchase i tossed and turned over was $300 or something on the dewalt portable table saw. At the time, that was probably as much as i saved every two months and i didnt have a proven track record of selling my work. Without it, i wouldnt have been able to make the etsy stuff i was selling, which earned me like $1200-1500 in that first year. The rest is history of making money from the tools to buy more tools, but that was the only purchase that made me nervous. After that year, i knew i could make the money i needed to buy a new jointer or whatever within reason. Last year or the year before i put a PM209hh on a 12 month 0% interest credit card. At the time i could have paid cash for the machine, but it would have hurt a bit with paying for my own wedding etc. I wouldnt advise people do stuff like that, but i had a strong track record of making side money and knew the powermatic would make me faster and more profitable. It did and i essentially rented the planer for $25 a month for 10-11 months until i paid the balance in full. In the fall, i dropped 4 or 5 stacks on the felder combo, and didnt bat an eyelash. I had a really good month, and knew the felder would make me faster and better. From the hobbyist end, i felt way too much guilt to spend savings on tools. I ended up spending free time instead of money, which has its drawbacks. I am at the point where i dont feel like spending my free time on other people's projects. I have a shop that i want, and i dont need much more. The expensive and high quality tools are a pleasure to use, but I still enjoyed woodworking when i had a minimalist shop of entry level tools. On the other end, if you make some money using your tools, then i would strongly suggest you invest when necessary. If you find yourself saying, "i spend a lot of time doing _____", then it is time to run the numbers on upgrading that tool/process. Stepping up to a stationary planer made me a lot faster than my dewalt 735. Same can be said for getting a 4 stage HVLP spraying WB finishes over brushing oil varnishes. That alone shaves 1-2 hours off each project, and gets it out the door a week faster because of the cure times. As a business, i can see it taking 1-2 years before you become profitable, because of how expensive proper tooling is.
  15. Ive seen the plastic thing before in magazines. Makes sense if you arent going to finish the joinery for weeks. Personally, i dont mill in 2+ stages for most of what i do. If i resaw a big piece, ill usually let it sit for a day before milling it flat, but just about everything else is milled in one shot. If your workpiece moves significantly overnight, it either wasnt dry on the inside, you didnt maintain equal airflow, or the board was wonky and always will be. For the most part, furniture parts arent large enough to move much and make a difference after the initial milling. This isnt always possible, but I will not start milling stock for a panel glue up unless i have time to glue that panel that day. This is especially true for table tops. I wont mill lumber for a table unless the base is mostly complete and im ready to take it out of the clamps and finish the project.