Pwk5017

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Pwk5017 last won the day on July 16 2018

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About Pwk5017

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    Pittsburgh, PA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Anything.

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  1. Pwk5017

    Walnut Vanity

    Id say that turned out pretty well. No need to apologize for biscuits or screws. At a certain point, things need to be value engineered to a practical sense. You can choose to not answer this, but did you keep track of your hours and costs? How did you do overall? Ive done hundreds of commissions of the years, but never a piece of furniture more complex than a bench. I keep a clipboard with each project as i work on it for knowing who ordered it, how much, dimensions, and then i also track materials and time. I clock in and out on the margin as i move along with the project. At the end i tally up my material costs, add $100ish for glue, sharpening, electricity, sandpaper,and finish, and see what i netted per hour. I ask because ive turned away more complex builds wary of hosing myself. For example, people have asked me to build a king bed frame. Overall my own king bed went smoothly except for adding drawers for my wife. Getting the web frame structure in place to disassemble along with the rest of the bed, but still hit tolerances and have a proper looking/operating set of big drawers was such a pain. I think back on that project, and i would have had to be around $5000 for me to make my typical shop rate plus materials. I can almost guarantee before the onset of the project i would not have thrown out a $5k bid. Sounds like you got to enjoy working with solid materials on someone else's dime, but hopefully you walked away with enough to buy a tool or two as well.
  2. Pwk5017

    Delta Cabinet Saw Dust Collection

    Nah, not specifically at your saw, just in general. I don’t think much dust is going through the cabinet bevel hole etc. Your saw is kinda what mine looked like only my port was on the saw. Same, I paid $150ish for my saw along with two others for the same price. 3 phase though.
  3. Pwk5017

    Delta Cabinet Saw Dust Collection

    I ran a 6” line to the bottom of my unisaw under the motor and it did a great job. Does your unisaw have the sloped interior cabinet? That combined with the chip deflector in front of the blade direct all the dust to the dust port. It’s not as effective as being right under the blade, but those old saws don’t have the room for a shroud. I dont know if ow if I agree with plugging up every single hole and opening. Where does your makeup air come from? If I’m sucking 1000+cfm at my port and I only have the ZCI open, how does that work? In this situation if you truly want Pentz level collection you need to move more air. If you are 18” from the source of the dust you need more cfm than if you are 1”. I had a 3hp cyclone that was rated around 1500-1600cfm. 6” on the bottom of the unisaw and 4” down to 2.5-3” for an over arm guard. Things stayed pretty clean on that saw.
  4. Pwk5017

    Delta Cabinet Saw Dust Collection

    I’m confused what you are asking for. Are you saying you don’t have a dust port on the saw and your only opening is 3.5” by 13.75”? On my old unisaw I had enough room for a 6” port there. I ended up fabing a port with a hose coupler and plywood. I need a photo of your saw, but some models of the unisaw had a custom dust port to fit that opening. I briefly owned a few unisaws with that very adapter I’m talking about. Does your saw have a biesemeyer fence or unifence? My recommendation would be to go look for hvac registers. You should be able to get something close to the size of your opening. Combine that with plywood, sheet metal screws, and some hvac tape and you will be there. Unfortunately, most dust collection mods to vintage tools are rarely beautiful.
  5. Pwk5017

    domino joiner

    Ah, damn, im too late. You guys need to buy from holbren, the cutters are like 50-70% the cost of the festool branded ones. Also, Amazon.de is a lot cheaper to buy the domino assortments from, i think. I advocate for the 700 big time, but if you do most of your work with 3/4" ply then i think the 500 is better. The only time the 500 beats the 700, in fact. 500 resting on its base almost centers the mortise in 3/4", i believe. The 700 leaves about 1mm of material above or below the mortise when referencing off the base.
  6. Pwk5017

    VSCT fence

    Have a two year old extrusion for sale from my VSCT fence. This is the standard length, which is now too short for my new 12-14” cabinet saw. I had to swap it out for a longer one. Extrusion is in excellent shape, and is as flat as I can measure with a precision straight edge and .0015 feeler gauge. I will ship it in the box I got my new one in. Good way to save a couple bucks for someone looking to buy a VSCT fence. Heck, would also be worthwhile as just a straight edge now that I’ve tested it. Asking $80 shipped. Through VSCT, I think you would be out $125 total.
  7. Pwk5017

    Apply palm directly to forehead

    Can you fit 4” hose inside the cabinet? I just modified the inside of a powermatic 72 to have an internal blade shroud, and 4” is tight. 4” on the inside of my KF700 is also a little tight. You really need to be mindful of the full bevel.
  8. Pwk5017

    Repositioning tools and a small shop update

    As far as the slatwall goes, my brother in law paid big bucks for his garage. He’s into cars and his garage looks better than most people’s living room. He paid $150-200 a sheet. It’s anodized aluminum, I think. I know it holds a lot of weight. To me, I can’t see myself spending $1500+ to put up slatwall. Yikes. I seriously considered a mobile base, but the ones I’ve used before just suck. They didn’t wheel well, and most importantly they weren’t stable. I hate when things rock and wobble. That’s half the reason I put the money and effort into the 72. With the optional 36” CI wing, I think it’s pushing 950lbs. I don’t want to compromise that stability. I am out of town for the rest of the week, but I did briefly play with moving things last night. The bandsaw is now tight to the wall with only 4’ of outfeed, but I think I’ll appreciate the repositioning. The cabinet saw can now rip 9.5’ and still leaves full travel for the sliding table. The bandsaw is on an integrated mobile base that actually moves pretty well and is stable. Anytime I work something longer than 4’ I can wheel it in front of the door. I wish there was an official guide or standard configurations to follow. I think too many people make it out to be highly individualized and specific, when really there are just good practices to follow. For example, nesting a jointer and planer makes work easier. The outfeed of the jointer sets your material up for the indeed of the planer. Back to back saws is another example.
  9. Pwk5017

    Repositioning tools and a small shop update

    Oh and for anyone thinking about slatwall, heres what my walls look like. I think ive loaded more crap on them since i took these photos a couple months ago. Painted the whole garage and put up slatwall in there too. I was worried about weight bearing capacity in 3/4" MDF slatwall, but i have a decent amount of weight on the hooks and shelves. Those shaper cutterheads are probably 6-10lbs a piece depending on size, and then the one shelf has the domino xl, rotex,and other random stuff You can add aluminum channels into the regular MDF slatwall, which takes the weight capacity up to 50-70lbs per lineal foot. I think this stuff is closer to 15-20lbs per foot. Its no french cleat system, but its quick and easy.
  10. A few months ago i took the plunge and decided to completely blow up my layout and almost start from scratch. Over the years i cycled through several tool upgrades, and workflow, duct runs, electrical, you name it, was thrown together piece meal to accommodate the immediate point in time. For the majority of my involvement in the craft, i was mostly focused on generating income, acquiring tools, and working on my house/filling it with furniture. My workspace was always an after thought, and certainly something on the backburner when it came to time and money. This year i felt myself start to transition away from maximizing commissions, and during a month long hiatus, i took the plunge to redo the workspace. It helped that i was also in the process of selling my 12" jointer and 37" drum sander. No matter how you cut it though, redoing ductwork sucks, and so does moving heavy tools. I put some lipstick on the pig with a couple craigslist scores while i was at it. The rubber flooring is 1/2" thick from a former gym, and you wouldnt believe how heavy a 40' roll is. Easily 200-300lbs. It wasnt inexpensive, but i had to cover up my awful brown and yellow basement tiles. It helps that it is pleasant to stand on and vacuums up very nicely. Next, i kept my eye out for any stores remodeling to source cheap slatwall. Finally stumbled on 12 sheets for $100. I painted it a light gray, and i really like the ease of putting different accessories and tools on the wall. It was several hundred bucks in hooks, brackets, baskets, and shelves, but it is a really slick system with a lot of flexibility. I still need to paint portions of exposed block wall, but i was able to redo a lot of my duct work and move tools around to be better positioned. As part of the change up, i am now left with a bit of a problem. My space is an L shape with the long leg being 11'x32' and the short leg around 16' x 18'. Originally, i had my unisaw dead in the middle of the space. It was great, i could rip unimpeded for 14-15'. The downside is everything else sucked. Now it is kinda the opposite. My other tools have room and are as convenient to work with as i can imagine--given my constraints--but my cabinet saw position sucks. Ripping over 5-6' requires opening the door to the garage. Finally, ripping anything wider than 12" would hit my bandsaw table, which i discovered is 3/4" higher than the unisaw table. I grumbled about this for a couple months, but just went through moving everything and didnt want to do it again. Now im in a similar position where im going to sell my unisaw, and im finalizing a PM72 that i disassembled, stripped, and repainted. Im trying to brainstorm how to make the Felder combo, bandsaw, and powermatic cabinet saw play nicely together. I dont really want to move the Felder, because it is level and in the best spot i can possibly put it. This leaves me down to two pieces i can move--the laguna and the powermatic. The saw is currently on a dolly, but once i plop it down and bolt the monster cast iron wing on, im not moving it again. The bandsaw has a johnson bar and is mildly mobile. My only idea so far is to position the 72 as tight to the wall and the backstroke of the sliding table as possible, and move the bandsaw towards the garage mandoor. i would need to make the powermatic the highest top of the three so it can rip 10'+. This wouldnt allow me any outfeed support on the back of the 72 saw, but folding outfeed tables that could correct that. Also, as a certain point the Felder cast iron top would act as an outfeed to the powermatic. The only downside to all of this that i can foresee is now my bandsaw will be put in the corner where it only has 5'+/- of outfeed space before it needs to be pulled out and lined up with the open man door. Anyone have ideas or seen clever ways of positioning tools? If my sliding table saw wasnt a combo, i would have made the cabinet saw the outfeed of the slider, but I need access to that side of the machine for the shaper controls. Its also where my feeder drops down to. I dont think i can remember seeing a bandsaw and table saw nested together.
  11. Pwk5017

    Sawstop folding outfeed table

    This is something i will need for my powermatic 72 when im finished putting it back together. There is an HTC model similar to the sawstop that is for sale locally, just not sure i want to spend $150 on an outfeed table after dumping more into the saw than i originally wanted. I need an outfeed table to fold out of the way, because the saw is in the backstroke of my sliding table saw. Other than price, any downsides to it? 31" doesnt seem like adequate outfeed support to me. I wish it had an extension like Frank is describing.
  12. Pwk5017

    New jointer season? I think so.

    Tom, do you think we have convinced him yet? Haha. I get it, that’s a bit above budget and maybe more machine than you want to move. Seriously though, VFDs are becoming a lot better with time. I remember a unit capable of providing 15-19 amps 3 phase used to be pretty expensive a few years ago. Now it’s $300 or less. Keep in mind, what they label as a 5hp VFD probably won’t cut it. I needed to use a 10hp unit for my 5.5hp jointer.
  13. Pwk5017

    New jointer season? I think so.

    Thats actually a pretty solid price on that machine. It was eventually discontinued and replaced by the 951, but that is a whole lotta machine. That is kinda close to you too, isnt it? Felder 700 is a good leap up from Hammer. I was posting it as a bit of a joke, but seriously, if you arent getting the service you think is adequate, then take those dollars somewhere else. Thats one example of where you could put them. 10hp VFD to convert that is probably $600ish.
  14. Pwk5017

    New jointer season? I think so.

    Or, what if...... https://chambana.craigslist.org/tls/d/felder-planer/6741436226.html
  15. Pwk5017

    Strongly Considering Domino Purchase

    I kinda wish there was a consolidated resource for tips and tricks with the domino. For example, steve's pictures show a really slick and easy way to put partitions in a case. When ive done that in the past, i clamped my case sides together, drew my lines across both, and then lined up the partitions for the plunge. Just need to be mindful of what face is up etc. I forget, but i think the 500 centers the domino on 3/4" ply, but the 700 has a thicker base and therefore the mortise is definitely not centered. This doesnt really matter for structural reasons, but it sure as hell does when lining things up. I only mentioned my take on the 700, because i feel like everyone writes it off as too big or as a choice between big projects or small projects before they use both. In my experience, the 700 will do all the small projects the 500 does in addition to covering alot of the medium to big joinery needs. In the end you might choose to save some money(totally legitimate reason), but i have used both for a year or two each on a bunch of projects, and i dont see a need to own both or a situation where the 500 is superior to the 700. I dont know if woodcraft allows demos or not. My store had one that i monkeyed around with for a bit.