Pwk5017

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Pwk5017 last won the day on July 16 2018

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About Pwk5017

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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  1. I have cheap chisels--set of old marples, and a set of dewalt chisels. Then, i have a set of veritas PMV11 chisels. Finally, I have maybe 8-10 japanese chisels i purchased second hand from japan. I dont know that the veritas chisels make me a better woodworker than the set of marples i paid $10 for at an estate sale. #1 is sharp. #2 is the person holding the chisel. A distant #3 is who made the chisel/steel types/handle design. I certainly didnt need anymore chisels than what i had, and like Chestnut points out, i kinda dont use many more than 1/4", 1/2" and 1". Because i have them, if i want a 3/4" chisel, i grab the 3/4" chisel. Or, if i want the nearest metric equivalent. If I was starting over and had a small budget(what is your budget, did you say?), I would look for used chisels, and try to get a good quality 1/4" chisel, 1/2" chisel, and ideally a 1". After that, i actually use a 1/8" a bit, a long handle paring chisel, and something wide like a 2"er i have. Depending on how you work, a 1/4" or 1/2" mortise chisel might be a valuable addition. Oddly enough, everything i have was purchased used. The veritas were new in box, but i thankfully didnt pay retail. I think all told, im into chisels for $5-600ish? I need another chisel like i need a hole in my head, but i will probably buy a big slick at some point, and maybe a fishtail or two. I certainly dont NEED either of those things, just nice to have stuff that also looks cool in the hand tool cabinet. I dont want to rain on the ultra expensive sets of chisels, but i think a fair percentage of people buying those sets just want to look at them. As they should, they look freaking fantastic! My 2 second review Dewalt chisels--surprisingly enough, they arent bad. I think the composite grips are comfortable and they have a metal cap on the butt of the chisel, which allows you to use whatever mallet/hammer you want. Steel is somewhat soft, hasnt chipped badly on me in the years ive used them. You definitely dont feel like a master craftsman holding a yellow and black rubber handle. Marples--These are the old version from Sheffield, which ive read is supposed to be better quality steel. I feel like they dull faster than the dewalts. The handles have a nice shape, but are soft, so you really need to use a wood/deadblow mallet. PMV11-- They are expensive, and they are great. I wouldnt want to hack out mortise waste with them, but they are a delight for detail work. Really light, handles feel great. So far they hold an edge really well. Narex-- I only have their 2". The handle is chunky and looks like it was designed by a caveman. I dont care for the rough texture of the handle either. Next, it took me HOURS to flatten the back and prep it for work. Steel seems to hold its edge ok, and it was cheap for such a wide chisel. Japanese-- I have a variety, but the makers are Ouchi, Kunitsuru, and another maker that is slipping my mind. Anyways, relatively middle of the road makers. Think $110 a chisel compared to your set of $250 a chisel. Ouchi chisels are what i always read as the maker to start out with. I dont know if that is because tools from japan carried them(that site is closed now? When did that happen?), or if they truly are the best bang for your buck. They are good. I like all the used japanese chisels I have. They are definitely different from western bench chisels. You have a much smaller reference surface, they arent as long as a western bench chisel, and they are slightly more arduous to flatten/sharpen. I had one or two of the 1"+ widths that took a very long time to flatten the backs 100%. Keep in mind, that is with a hollow grind and im working with shapton glass stones that cut pretty quickly. These are also second hand from presumably skilled tradesman in japan, which surprised me that they werent 100% flat to begin with. It taught me that the thin laminate of steel on the back is indeed extremely hard. These chisels hold an edge very well. Keep in mind they are designed to be struck with a metal hammer, so you can really drive them when you want. If I was picking one, i would easily choose the Veritas. They are excellent in every way. They look good. Feel good. Perform good--err, well. The japanese chisels look cool on display and are just fine to use, but i prefer a western bench chisel for the work i do with chisels.
  2. Pwk5017

    New tool brag

    Yeah, the bit changes on the routers do leave you pleasantly content. Its what some people attribute to "German Engineering". Those subtle design decisions that can really make a car/product stand out from its competitors. I really hope you take to the 1400 grip. I hated the thing, and sold it a year ago to buy a used 2200. The 2200 is a fantastic little machine. I wish they made a 1400watt version on the 2200 platform at he 1400 price. I dont think you need anymore power than 1400, but the design is a lot better on the bigger machine--more than just the grip difference, but the grip is a big part of it. The 2200 is way too expensive for many to give it a shot though. I have an older ETS 150, and i keep thinking about selling it to buy the EC. Twins on the way, so my tool days are done. It looks like a vastly improved sander.
  3. Im going to give that rasp some thought, because i don know if i feel like spending $300 on rasps. I am on the fence with the angle grinder. I have a beater that i got for free. It came with a metabo disc on it that was stamped "made in west germany" to give you an idea of the grinder's vintage. I might use it to see if im dissatisfied and then go out and buy a new dewalt for $60. Angle grinder design hasnt changed much, and this is mostly about the cutting disc. I think i only saw marc use the coarse wheel once or twice in the beginning, and every other instance he had the fine wheel on the grinder. Leads me to believe the fine wheel is plenty aggressive for the work that needs to be done. I tried to buy a metabo electric die grinder off craigslist in NJ, but the owner wouldnt ship. I guess ill end up with the corded Makita. It isnt too bad for $100.
  4. Thanks, Coop. Im a cheap SOB, and this build requires a lot of somewhat specific tools and accessories. I havent priced it up yet, but im assuming ill be around $750 without wood. Ha, i was thinking of buying a die grinder from HF!! The shame that came across me after i realized what i was doing. The die grinder seems really useful after watching most of the videos. Somehow the Holey Galahad fine disc was $23 on amazon last night, so i bought it. I thought those discs were normally $70ish?
  5. Im about to start the sculpted rocker build, and figured there might be a few people out there that geared up for the project and now dont plan on doing another rocker project for the rest of their lives. Anyone want to sell carving discs, die grinders, rasps, the whiteside bit set etc?
  6. I had that happen once with my cyclone. Before i modded the filter pan cleanout, i had a bandclamp let loose and blow off the plastic bag. It is a horrific sight to see. Im also in a basement, which makes i twice as bad. I really like the straight grain on the door/side.
  7. Fantastic boards!! I always assumed a 16" machine would cover 98% of everyone's needs. You just squeaked by in this instance. I have a 500mm jointer, and in thicker stock, i think I become the limiting factor. I dont know that i could comfortably muscle a 8/4 board of that width over 7-9'. I wondered this in the guild build too, but what is the advantage of veneering the side panels? Ribboned Sapele isnt exactly rare or expensive. Seems like a hassle to glue up a veneer panel instead of doing it in solid wood,but i saw Darrel do it in his build too. Just to get away with not worrying about a floating panel?
  8. Yeah, a blank SCI for my PM72 is over $100, i believe. Do you have a bit of flex in yours? My ply flexes a bit over the length of the opening if i push on it. The opening on the 72 is longer than the 2000 or 66, and it might be a non-issue for you.
  9. Sounds like a great deal. I went with leather for my seats and ottomans, and the cost will surprise you! I think i was in for $1900-2100 when it was all said and done for 2 chairs and ottomans. That said, they look like a million bucks and are very comfortable. After having them for 6 months, i think the ottomans should be taller. Might just be my personal preference, but aesthetically they look nice in front of the chairs, but they are way too low for my liking. I might end up popping out the leather cushion and remaking the two ottomans another 6"+/- taller.
  10. Not suggesting you stand on the saw as it makes a cut, but how firm are you handling the tool? There is a moment with just about all kickbacks--table saw, router, plunge saw, whatever--where you have a second to recognize what is coming and overcome it. Im not saying there arent 10% of cases where things happen suddenly and almost unavoidably, but for the 2 table saw kickback incidents ive had, i have overcome another 20. When im plunging the TS75 into the workpiece, im anticipating an upward kickback. Riving knife or no, that is just the opposite and equal reaction of the cutting force.
  11. I would have enjoyed the first coat on those drawer fronts. the whole time i worked on my bed frame with similar walnut crotch panels, i kept thinking how good the panels would ultimately look. First coat of finish exceeded those expectations. Looking at the unsanded pics, i knew the fronts would be awesome. They didnt disappoint.
  12. Great execution. Cant say i care for the lumber choice though. Maybe you cant source sapele or mahogany where you are, which is understandable, but i would have done cherry in lieu of oak. The more and more GG work i see, i think it almost has to be sapele/honduran mahogany with ebony plugs and splines for it to be "right". Its similar to owning a Blue Ferrari. Still a beautiful car, but id forever look at it thinking it ought to be red. . If you were doing it over again, would you stray from the plans on the height of the headboard? Is the darrel peart plug jig an article in FWW or similar? Heck, i own the guild build with him, and im not sure if i remember a plug jig... Making dozens and dozens of those suckers is incredibly annoying.
  13. Between Marc and everyone else the last 4-5 years, i feel like ive been slowly brainwashed into thinking japanese chisels are unequivocally the greatest thing in the world. I cant stomach $100+ a chisel and a 6 month lead time, so i kept my eye on the used circuits for awhile. Ended up buying a smorgasbord of used chisels over the weekend. I also just bought a set of PMV11s 3 weeks ago, and these eastern chisels will need to be pretty good to sway me from my western roots.
  14. Rule of thumb, you can get a 12" machine in good condition and single phase for under $2,000. 16" machine you will be hard pressed to find one in single phase electric, and the good euro 3 phase machines are typically in the $3,000+. 20"+ is just a rare bird. I see the occasional machine for sale here or there, but they arent common in north america. Ive watched a few martin T54s sell for 11-18k, there was a very nice Kolle(german) 20" machine in california for $7500 over the summer. Casolin 20" machine near chicago for $5500ish a few months ago. There was a 24" northfield that sold for a pretty pennty at an IRS auction within the last 6 months. I paid $3k for my machine and it was misrepesented as a 16", and the guy knew it was green and thats about it. I went back and checked on that northfield jointer. $8400 PLUS buyers premiums. Easily at or over $10k.
  15. Those are typically $1000 or less. I think another woodtalk forum member bought one months ago for $500. Maybe close to his price if its been restored, contemporary cutterhead, and it comes with a VFD etc.