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About Pwk5017

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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  1. Adding a UniFence to SawStop

    Also a big fan of the unifence. I had regret after selling my delta contractor saw with a unifence and stepping up to a unisaw with a bies. Everyone always blabs about the bies, so i thought i was upgrading. Wrong. The faces arent flat, and the fence face and fence head dont have the same level of adjustment as the unifence. I quickly ditched the bies head for a VSCT fence. I think the VSCT fence is good, but it could be great if it had some of the features the unifence has. Conversely, if the unifence had the t tracks that the VSCT fence has then it would be very good. I have a Felder saw with a fence similar to Derek's and that is a unifence on steroids. The delta uni will deflect flightly if you really push on it. The felder means business. The fence head is 2-3x larger than the unifence. The fence rail almost whacked the hell out of me when i was disassembling it for transport. I assumed it was a hollow tube steel, nope! Sucker weighs about 75lbs, and surprised me as i loosened the bolts. The felder also has a very quick and easy lever for adjusting the position of the fence. The clamping lever could be longer or smoother action. Anyways, dont knock the uni/euro fences before you try them, because they have a lot of merit to them.
  2. Used lathe rant

    Pm on sawmill if you have a few grand. I agree, I think nova offers a ton of bang for your buck. The dvr is under 2k and gives you a 1.5-2.25hp motor with variable speed, 16” swing, outboard capability etc. I had a used one for a few months, but didn’t take to turning much. I traded it for a new in box comet II and a grand. I want more machine, but realistically, the comet has me covered for what I do and want to do.
  3. Used lathe rant

    Tom brings up a good point. If budget is paramount, plenty of Rockwell, delta, and powermatics from the 50s-80s out there for a song. They would not be ideal bowl machines, but could do just fine for 10ish” bowls. The pm45 is the smaller version of the 90, and then Tom mentioned the delta/Rockwell version. More spindle oriented lathes, but very cheap at times. Watch school auctions. I feel like the pm45 and 90 are staples at every single shop class auction. The pm90 would be a worthwhile machine with a riser block and VFD.
  4. Used lathe rant

    The midi's are pretty decent machines, actually. Ideally, you want a Nova DVR or something like that. Used will be right in your budget and allow for some tools and a chuck. Personally, variable speed is a MUST. I would take a smaller lathe with VS over a bigger one with belt changes.
  5. Used lathe rant

    What you have witnessed for some time is pretty typical. It’s not unusual to see something like a nova dvr or the jet floor model. They certainly aren’t common, and something like the powermatic 4224 are once a year type finds. I’ll be honest, you are probably better buying new if you want a lathe. Good lathes retain their value more than any other tool. Think of good lathes like LN hand planes or festool gear. I wouldn’t expect half off. I got got a good deal on a dvr, found out turning wasn’t really for me, and now I have a comet.
  6. Tooling for my shaper...finally

    Those particular heads are for making interior and exterior doors, I believe. This is one of the 12 cope and stick cutterheads for cabinet doors. Probably 5” diameter and 5-7lbs. The first ones are about 8” in diameter, and honestly pushing the max my machine can handle. I don’t know if felder specifies max weight, but the max diameter it can handle is 9”. It’s a 5hp motor, which is also on the lighter end of the spectrum for huge tooling. Very interested in comparing the cut quality of expensive equipment with a power feeder versus a hand fed router table. This is easily the most expensive tool I’ve come across. The machines themselves aren’t cheap, and then you really can’t operate them efficiently or safely without a feeder($900 for a cheap one), and finally the cutters are the icing on the money pit cake. Expectations are high.
  7. Certainly took me long enough, but finally found the right lot of cutterheads for my saw/shaper I’ve had for 6 months. Up until now I’ve been using the high speed router spindle to use my existing router bits. After a few months of looking, I picked up 30 insert cutterheads last week. All American made steel tooling with replaceable carbide knives. Here’s a comparison with a 1/2” shank round over bit. Each one is shockingly heavy, about 20lbs. Might be one of those times where you fire up the machine and duck n cover.
  8. Mahogany King Bed inspired by D & W

    I had a few pieces of what i assumed to be honduran--significantly heavier than other mahoganies ive held--from a massive shop liquidation auction out of cleveland. The boards were planed, but had sat for awhile and aged to that fantastic deep red. With that said, i havent used them, and thus havent seen honduran freshly planed. It could also be he has super bright or bluey flourescents African doesnt darken much with age from my experience. I regret building my one morris chair out of african. I should have used sapele, which starts with better color and ages better. Oddly enough, i think sapele is much less expensive for me too. Just bought a pack of 8/4 for under $4 a bdft.
  9. Mahogany King Bed inspired by D & W

    Nice, im looking to do a king bed in he next 3ish months. Queen size with two bulldogs and my wife isnt really cutting it. About how long did it take start to finish? The more i look at some of these builds, the less daunting they seem. Do you mind hitting me with some rough dimensions? Your legs look like they are roughly 3" square. Rails are 1.25-1.5" thick? Panels look great. I have to say the mahogany is coming across much lighter than im used to. Is this african, honduran, fiji? Ive only used african and sapele before. African might look like that freshly planed and sanded, but sapele finishes significantly darker.
  10. Planer-If it was only a little wider

    You beat me to it! I saw that auction, and made me think of this thread. 52" is the biggest planer ive seen to date. Frankly, i wasnt even aware of anything that large until i saw the listing.
  11. Straightline Gangrip

    Was always curious how those multi-function woodmaster machines operated when it came to stock feeding. Do the planer feed rollers still engage for the gang rip function? Im a little confused how that would work without the saw blade hitting them. In any case, a sweet contraption you have. How many blades does it accept at once? Also, how can it straightline rip? Every SL rip saw ive seen has a chain feed belt and the blade mounted above the material and not below. Needless to saw, the anti-kickback design and power of the feed make it saw and efficient. I would imagine a 10hp motor would easily overcome those baby feeders if push came to shove.
  12. Help my friend get started...

    Your craigslist isnt too bad. This saw might do well. You also have an old unisaw you could upgrade with the vega fence for sale. I think the steel city saw is easier. I know absolutely nothing about this ryobi unit, but that might work too. Makita made something that looked identical, and i think people considered them to be solid machines. Perhaps ryobi copied their design? I would check that their knives are universal, and do not overpay for the machine. Wow, you really dont have much going on in the J/P category. Negotiating on the ryobi combo unit might not be a bad idea. I would look into it, and see if the guy will do $400 for it. These two will leave you with a couple hundred bucks to buy some wood for a bench, a few clamps, and misc accessories.
  13. Im sure its gently used, but i purchased a KF700 for the same price as his k3. Heavier build, better sliding table, and shaper. I see Hammer stuff occasionally, and I am not too compelled by the asking price. Albeit, a lot of the hammer units on the used market are about as new as you can get, id rather buy the next step up from Felder or SCMI. There was a 2005-2006 16" J/P SCMI elite for sale on the west coast for $3700, which would have been a great buy. Still, cool to see these machines pop up occasionally on craigslist. Might be within the budget of some guys that otherwise wouldnt consider them.
  14. Thickness lost in jointing/ planing

    Agreed, I account for 1/4” or 6ish mm for just about everything. This means I expect a finished thickness of 3/4” out of 4/4(1-1/8”), 1” out of 5/4 etc. I would never expect to get a full finished inch out of 4/4 unless it was a short piece and generously sawn.
  15. Shop reset

    That is the "point of no return" to me when working on machines. Cant walk away from it, or decide not to do the swap now! Any chance this head fits the DJ-20?