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Pwk5017 last won the day on July 16

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About Pwk5017

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    Pittsburgh, PA
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  1. Pwk5017

    Opinion poll 3hp v. 5hp for home shop

    Havent been on here in awhile, but im actually in the process of selling my 3hp unisaw and stepping up to a 7.5 PM72. Granted, that is a 12-14" saw with significantly bigger arbor and build, but 3hp is the bare minimum id want for cutting 1.5"+/- thick hardwood. I have stalled out a 3hp baldor motor when ripping 8/4, and that was using a 24 or 30t forrest WWII. Its not unusual to notice slowdown midcut and adjust my feedrate. If you cut mostly sheet goods and thin solid wood, then i think 3hp will be adequate. If you are ripping thicker hardwoods, then more power is called for. I really only use my cabinet saw for ripping and dadoes now. To upgrade is easy for me to say, the price difference on this saw rebuild between 3hp, 5hp, and 7.5hp is only a couple hundred bucks. I have no idea what the upgrade would cost you, but i imagine 3hp will be adequate for you needs. Go in knowing 3hp isnt infinitely powerful, and you should be fine.
  2. Pwk5017

    Vintage jointer upgrade

    Yes, numerous times during the move I called myself an idiot and questioned why I couldn’t have just lived with the 12” grizzly. It was really tight. One, my garage opening is only 8’ or so, which means I couldn’t bring the machine in straight with the pallet jack. I had to angle it, and then attempt to move it in a semi straight line with the pallet jack. After that, getting it off the skid and onto homemade furniture dollies was no walk in the park. Really needed a hoist or engine lift st that point. It squeezed through the man door by about 1/2”—well, to be fair it hit the door frame about 8 times before we got it through. And finally, yes, it was semi tight quarters once it was inside. Still, once it was in the basement, it took my wife and I maybe 5-7 mins to get it into position. This gets back to my earlier statement that the machine is weird in a few ways, but all those ways make it perfect for me. Any longer or wider would have been a serious problem. Luckily, the next time it needs to move will probably be when we move, and in that case it will be the last machine out the door with all the room in the world to get there. I know I will have made it when I have a double garage door for access and tall ceilings.
  3. Pwk5017

    Vintage jointer upgrade

    Haha yes, hindsight it was a no brainer. However, i was dealing with 2-3 photos at the time, and had about 4 question marks on major details. Thankfully, all the unknowns ended up as I hoped they would. So far the tersa Head is pretty cool. You whack the gib with a wedge to loosen it and the knife slides out. The first edge was trash, but thankfully the other side was brand new. I flipped them all in 1-2 mins. Once you fire up the machine, the centrifugal force locks the gib and knife back into place. I don’t know how they manufacture those knives, but they are very very close to perfect. Maybe .001” over the 19.5”. My 12” blades were consistently .003ish when they were new and after sharpening. Brand new the finish is superb, but I’ll be interested to see how long the edge lasts. I might end up going carbide in 2 and 2 HSS dummy knives. Or go whole hog and do 4 carbide.
  4. Pwk5017

    Vintage jointer upgrade

    Been a few weeks, but finally got my new jointer calibrated and wired up. I was waiting on a 10hp VFD to get here to power the machine, which accounted for most of the delay. I previously had a 12” grizzly that was a fantastic machine, but I always had my eye on the used market waiting for the right 16” machine to come around to upgrade to. I’m in a basement, so things are tight and 16” is just about the biggest machine I could get. I know everyone says an 8” jointer will cover most of your needs, but I found my 12” machine to be lacking more than I’d like. Maybe I’m lucky with my lumber supplier, but boards wider than 11.5” aren’t incredibly rare. Anyways, I figured 16” would handle 99% of my needs and waited and waited for the right one to come around. By “right one”, I mean something preferably European with less than a 9hp motor and either an insert head or a tersa head. I’m running my shop off a 60amp subpanel, and 7.5hp plus my cyclone is just about the max I can run at once. I missed out on a fantastic buy in Arkansas and then another in Florida, when I finally read a listing in Long Island for a 16” machine with zero badging or branding. All I had to go off of was a serial number and a model number “PF-500”. I went round and round with the guy on price, while taking a gamble on the machine’s origins. Turns out the guy listed it incorrectly Like I inferred from the model number and this is a 500mm cutterhead. I was also happy to discover the cutterhead is a tersa like I guessed from one crappy photo. It was a bit of a calculated risk, but for about a grand I have a massive my basement. I won’t bore everyone with the story of moving it, but it was hellish. Tool weighs about 1700-1800lbs. After having it in person, it is definitely Italian and from the late 80s. Oddly enough, just this week the identical machine popped up on woodweb for $5500. It is a cassedei, which leads me to guess this was produced by Griggio or SCM and then badged Griggio, Casadei, Paoloni, etc afterwards. This is my first experience with wiring a VFD as a phase converter, and I am a believer now. With this 10hp unit, the 3 phase motor produces its full power rating. Jack Forsberg sells a variety of units, and has a fellow Canadian walk you through the programming over the phone. I’m competent with working on machines and most electrical needs, but programming isn’t my thing. If you are thinking about converting a 3 phase tool, this process was dead simple. The guard that came with it was a segmented plywood POS, and I spent 45 mins yesterday morning making a plywood bridge guard for it. Eventually I might take the time to make a swing away segmented porkchop guard, but this guard works very well. Overall, it’s a bit of an oddball machine without a manufacturer label, being 500mm instead of the more common 510mm, shorter beds for a machine this size(100” long), and only a 5.5hp motor, but all these oddities made it a perfect fit for me. 118” jointer beds sound awesome, but I’m not in a 4,000 sqft space. Same goes for a 9hp motor. Im sure that is fantastic for taking full width deep cuts, but I can’t power that. I won’t say much about the performance of the machine, because I Have only surfaced about 50bdft of walnut so far. I snapped a pic of the grizzly as I was moving it, but I wish I had a side by side comparison.
  5. Pwk5017

    This time I was not a day late and a dollar short

    How much? Looks like a sweet score. You sure that bottom wide board is cherry? Looks dark like mahogany. Given your location, 30+ years ago mahogany would possibly be more common than cherry, no?
  6. Pwk5017

    Time to say goodbye

    It is a little weird. 20” Griggio from the late 80s. Damn thing almost did me in moving it into my basement shop. Battled with it for a few hours before I finally got it into position. I need a new space, I think I outgrew my basement 3+ years ago.
  7. Pwk5017

    Time to say goodbye

    Whelp, the old girl is going to a new home. It’s a bit strange, but I’m a little sad to see this one go. I couldn’t wait to see the back of my DJ20 when I upgraded to this grizzly, but this was a really really solid performer for me. Never had to touch the beds despite traveling a couple hundred miles to get here. Made a lot of money and a lot of projects with this one. I felt the same way when selling my first table saw, a delta contractor saw from the early 90s. The Unisaw that replaced it was better in every possible way, but didn’t have the same history.
  8. Pwk5017

    Japanese vs Western Chisels

    Dont have any experience with japanese chisels, but ive always been interested. Not sure how sold i am on the hollow grind. Sure, it makes flattening easier/faster, but flattening a western chisel isnt that awful. Whats more, now you have the entire back as a flat reference surface. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, i like the idea of a set of japanese chisels. With how little hand tool work i do, the fact is 1-2 PMV11s from veritas would be the best fit. In line with Derek's review, they seem to do it all reasonably well. They pare well and can handle light/medium chopping as well. My perception of the japanese bench chisels is they arent as well rounded. If i went that route, i might skip the bench chisels and get a few paring chisels and a few mortise chisels. Has anyone ever looked at the vintage japanese chisels on ebay? Tons of lots for sale ranging from a whole roll of timber framing slicks and chisels to something more in line with what we are discussing. I dont know enough about japanese chisels to make an informed decision when buying new, let alone vintage stuff, but they sometimes catch my eye. Unlike western chisels from 50-100 years ago, the old japanese chisels should be of similar hardness and quality as their contemporary counterparts, right?
  9. Pwk5017

    Felder AD941

    Its this guy Its a 700 series, and i think they stopped making a 20" combo in the 700 series in the late 90s. Dont quote me on when production stopped, but ive never seen a chartreuse era 700 series 51 cm machine. I think they switch colors from the dark green to lime green around 2003ish. Now you can only get a 900 series 20" machine or the Dual51. I just paid less than that for a 20" jointer, but $3500 is a pretty good price on a 20" combo. They certainly do not come up often on the used market. Honestly, finding a 20" jointer worth owning was quite a struggle for me. There was a Dual 51 in california months ago for something close to ten grand, i think theres a 751 on ebay for $8-9k, some 20" italian combo from the 70s-80s i didnt recognize for $2500 in upstate new york, and thats just about it for 20" combos in the last 12+ months. Recapping it makes the orlando machine seem like a bit of a bargain. I can only remember 3-4 stand a lone 20" jointers of the last 1-2 years too. Anything over 12" doesnt seem to be that common on the auction sites or craigslist. I havent used too many 900 series machines, but i do have a 700 series KF700, and its a decent step up to the 900s. I have no idea what pricing is on the JP or saws between 700 and 900, but i always seemed to think the 900 was just a little more. I also prefer the blue over the charcoal gray. Kind of a lame transition from a sweet green to charcoal gray.
  10. Pwk5017

    Felder AD941

    Just saw this and not sure if used interests you, but there is a 20" felder combo for sale in the southeast, if i remember correctly. Maybe Florida or Georgia? It was $3-3500 3 phase. Obviously not as plug and play as a new unit from the factory, but thought i would pass along if you had any interest. I can personally vouch for how annoying and frustrating it is to transport machines like these, but so far its been worth it. Knock on wood that holds true for my latest delivery on wednesday.
  11. Agreed, thats a $400-500 machine in my neck of the woods. Plenty of DJ-20s up here for $800ish, and most people would pay a couple hundred more to upgrade over yours. Still, yours is a good machine for someone with a budget and no jointer.
  12. Pwk5017

    CL buy of the week

    I bought the same model about a year ago for $450-500 along with a ton of chisels. This guy had 1/4" all the way to 1", and most were still in plastic with cosmoline. I used it for one project, and decided it wasnt for me. I later sold it for $725, which was lower than what i thought it was worth, but didnt want to be overly greedy. With a domino 700, a medium duty HCM is absolutely obsolete. It is painfully slow compared to the domino, and that doesnt include making the matching integral tenon to fit the mortise. Anything over 5/8" on the PM felt like i was taxing the machine, and thats precisely where i would want a HCM for the job. If i ever find myself with an abundance of shop space, i wouldnt mind picking up one of the older hydraulic foot operated machines. This is a great buy, Tom. If it fits the work you do, great, if not, always nice to know you have a bit of equity sitting there fr when you need it.
  13. Pwk5017

    Delta Unisaw 36-L53L opinions?

    5hp left tilt saw, what’s not to like for $600? I have a right tilt ‘99 I bought for $150. A couple years later, it’s held its settings perfectly. I used to have to adjust my delta contractor saw every couple months.
  14. Pwk5017

    Planer eastern oregon

    Haha I won’t count my chickens until they hatch. Still need it to get here from Long Island. Should be tomorrow. Pretty excited to get it in my space and get it running. Not looking forward to moving it. 20” wide, 106”ish long, and a tersa cutterblock. If you don’t mind the hassle of moving that machine, it’s better built with better features than a comparable new. Comparing that to my powermatic 209hh, I’m sure it weighs a few hundred pounds more. It has a segmented infeed roller, which mine does not. It should have a pressure bar, which mine does, but all 15”ers do not. I don’t know if I’d be interested for $800, but for $500, I might. That particular machine doesn’t look like it’s had the easiest life. thats a good buy too if you ever see them for sale. They usually had variable speed feeds, offer 9”+ In thickness, and are a heavy build. For just about any of these machines, you have to be prepared to move them and deal with an issue or two along the way. About 95% of people see 3 phase and 1500lbs and that turns them away instantly.
  15. Pwk5017

    Planer eastern oregon

    Yep, Tom is right on the sizes. Im almost positive there was a 20" model in there, the 221. There is a 24" model close to me that is absolutely mint looking. For $4000, eh, not too interested. I havent used one of these Powermatic planers, but I know they are stout workhorses. They also occupy an enormous footprint for their capacity. Im not sure how many amps that 5hp motor draws, but im assuming its around 15 amps(3phase, keep in mind). If thats the case, you can get a VFD from Jack shipped to you for under $400 including him walking you through how to wire it. Im doing that right this minute for a 20" griggio jointer i bought.