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Everything posted by Pwk5017

  1. Felder's design isnt two stage, correct? I dont know how you compete in that price range of DC without high efficiency separation. Not to mention the Felder lineup is more than the clearvue, i believe. I have the 3hp grizzly cyclone. The filter and its associated connections sucked from day one. I modified it to accept a wynn filter, and its been much better ever since.
  2. Thanks for posting the detail shots. That will help me in a couple weeks when i really dig into the carving aspect. Im probably 40-50% of the way there on my first rocker, and already i envision there will be a second. This is so wildly different from anything else ive ever done, that the second one will automatically be considerably easier and better. The rear leg joint was a complete PITA for me. I dont know what happened on my piece, but i couldnt lay the leg flat on a surface without the bottom portion of the leg contacting the same surface before the 6° portion was laying flat on the surface. this made it impossible to use my table saw and dado stack to create the mortise, because the reference would be all jacked up. I had to mock up a router jig that worked pretty well. Somehow one of my joints is a perfectly tight friction fit and the other one is a smidgen loose. So far, the build isnt as complex as it looks. The additional tools and accessories needed have been a little eye opening. I think im in for a grand in random bits and bobs to complete this project.
  3. I have cheap chisels--set of old marples, and a set of dewalt chisels. Then, i have a set of veritas PMV11 chisels. Finally, I have maybe 8-10 japanese chisels i purchased second hand from japan. I dont know that the veritas chisels make me a better woodworker than the set of marples i paid $10 for at an estate sale. #1 is sharp. #2 is the person holding the chisel. A distant #3 is who made the chisel/steel types/handle design. I certainly didnt need anymore chisels than what i had, and like Chestnut points out, i kinda dont use many more than 1/4", 1/2" and 1". Because i have them, if i want a 3/4" chisel, i grab the 3/4" chisel. Or, if i want the nearest metric equivalent. If I was starting over and had a small budget(what is your budget, did you say?), I would look for used chisels, and try to get a good quality 1/4" chisel, 1/2" chisel, and ideally a 1". After that, i actually use a 1/8" a bit, a long handle paring chisel, and something wide like a 2"er i have. Depending on how you work, a 1/4" or 1/2" mortise chisel might be a valuable addition. Oddly enough, everything i have was purchased used. The veritas were new in box, but i thankfully didnt pay retail. I think all told, im into chisels for $5-600ish? I need another chisel like i need a hole in my head, but i will probably buy a big slick at some point, and maybe a fishtail or two. I certainly dont NEED either of those things, just nice to have stuff that also looks cool in the hand tool cabinet. I dont want to rain on the ultra expensive sets of chisels, but i think a fair percentage of people buying those sets just want to look at them. As they should, they look freaking fantastic! My 2 second review Dewalt chisels--surprisingly enough, they arent bad. I think the composite grips are comfortable and they have a metal cap on the butt of the chisel, which allows you to use whatever mallet/hammer you want. Steel is somewhat soft, hasnt chipped badly on me in the years ive used them. You definitely dont feel like a master craftsman holding a yellow and black rubber handle. Marples--These are the old version from Sheffield, which ive read is supposed to be better quality steel. I feel like they dull faster than the dewalts. The handles have a nice shape, but are soft, so you really need to use a wood/deadblow mallet. PMV11-- They are expensive, and they are great. I wouldnt want to hack out mortise waste with them, but they are a delight for detail work. Really light, handles feel great. So far they hold an edge really well. Narex-- I only have their 2". The handle is chunky and looks like it was designed by a caveman. I dont care for the rough texture of the handle either. Next, it took me HOURS to flatten the back and prep it for work. Steel seems to hold its edge ok, and it was cheap for such a wide chisel. Japanese-- I have a variety, but the makers are Ouchi, Kunitsuru, and another maker that is slipping my mind. Anyways, relatively middle of the road makers. Think $110 a chisel compared to your set of $250 a chisel. Ouchi chisels are what i always read as the maker to start out with. I dont know if that is because tools from japan carried them(that site is closed now? When did that happen?), or if they truly are the best bang for your buck. They are good. I like all the used japanese chisels I have. They are definitely different from western bench chisels. You have a much smaller reference surface, they arent as long as a western bench chisel, and they are slightly more arduous to flatten/sharpen. I had one or two of the 1"+ widths that took a very long time to flatten the backs 100%. Keep in mind, that is with a hollow grind and im working with shapton glass stones that cut pretty quickly. These are also second hand from presumably skilled tradesman in japan, which surprised me that they werent 100% flat to begin with. It taught me that the thin laminate of steel on the back is indeed extremely hard. These chisels hold an edge very well. Keep in mind they are designed to be struck with a metal hammer, so you can really drive them when you want. If I was picking one, i would easily choose the Veritas. They are excellent in every way. They look good. Feel good. Perform good--err, well. The japanese chisels look cool on display and are just fine to use, but i prefer a western bench chisel for the work i do with chisels.
  4. Pwk5017

    New tool brag

    Yeah, the bit changes on the routers do leave you pleasantly content. Its what some people attribute to "German Engineering". Those subtle design decisions that can really make a car/product stand out from its competitors. I really hope you take to the 1400 grip. I hated the thing, and sold it a year ago to buy a used 2200. The 2200 is a fantastic little machine. I wish they made a 1400watt version on the 2200 platform at he 1400 price. I dont think you need anymore power than 1400, but the design is a lot better on the bigger machine--more than just the grip difference, but the grip is a big part of it. The 2200 is way too expensive for many to give it a shot though. I have an older ETS 150, and i keep thinking about selling it to buy the EC. Twins on the way, so my tool days are done. It looks like a vastly improved sander.
  5. Im going to give that rasp some thought, because i don know if i feel like spending $300 on rasps. I am on the fence with the angle grinder. I have a beater that i got for free. It came with a metabo disc on it that was stamped "made in west germany" to give you an idea of the grinder's vintage. I might use it to see if im dissatisfied and then go out and buy a new dewalt for $60. Angle grinder design hasnt changed much, and this is mostly about the cutting disc. I think i only saw marc use the coarse wheel once or twice in the beginning, and every other instance he had the fine wheel on the grinder. Leads me to believe the fine wheel is plenty aggressive for the work that needs to be done. I tried to buy a metabo electric die grinder off craigslist in NJ, but the owner wouldnt ship. I guess ill end up with the corded Makita. It isnt too bad for $100.
  6. Thanks, Coop. Im a cheap SOB, and this build requires a lot of somewhat specific tools and accessories. I havent priced it up yet, but im assuming ill be around $750 without wood. Ha, i was thinking of buying a die grinder from HF!! The shame that came across me after i realized what i was doing. The die grinder seems really useful after watching most of the videos. Somehow the Holey Galahad fine disc was $23 on amazon last night, so i bought it. I thought those discs were normally $70ish?
  7. Im about to start the sculpted rocker build, and figured there might be a few people out there that geared up for the project and now dont plan on doing another rocker project for the rest of their lives. Anyone want to sell carving discs, die grinders, rasps, the whiteside bit set etc?
  8. I had that happen once with my cyclone. Before i modded the filter pan cleanout, i had a bandclamp let loose and blow off the plastic bag. It is a horrific sight to see. Im also in a basement, which makes i twice as bad. I really like the straight grain on the door/side.
  9. Fantastic boards!! I always assumed a 16" machine would cover 98% of everyone's needs. You just squeaked by in this instance. I have a 500mm jointer, and in thicker stock, i think I become the limiting factor. I dont know that i could comfortably muscle a 8/4 board of that width over 7-9'. I wondered this in the guild build too, but what is the advantage of veneering the side panels? Ribboned Sapele isnt exactly rare or expensive. Seems like a hassle to glue up a veneer panel instead of doing it in solid wood,but i saw Darrel do it in his build too. Just to get away with not worrying about a floating panel?
  10. Yeah, a blank SCI for my PM72 is over $100, i believe. Do you have a bit of flex in yours? My ply flexes a bit over the length of the opening if i push on it. The opening on the 72 is longer than the 2000 or 66, and it might be a non-issue for you.
  11. Sounds like a great deal. I went with leather for my seats and ottomans, and the cost will surprise you! I think i was in for $1900-2100 when it was all said and done for 2 chairs and ottomans. That said, they look like a million bucks and are very comfortable. After having them for 6 months, i think the ottomans should be taller. Might just be my personal preference, but aesthetically they look nice in front of the chairs, but they are way too low for my liking. I might end up popping out the leather cushion and remaking the two ottomans another 6"+/- taller.
  12. Not suggesting you stand on the saw as it makes a cut, but how firm are you handling the tool? There is a moment with just about all kickbacks--table saw, router, plunge saw, whatever--where you have a second to recognize what is coming and overcome it. Im not saying there arent 10% of cases where things happen suddenly and almost unavoidably, but for the 2 table saw kickback incidents ive had, i have overcome another 20. When im plunging the TS75 into the workpiece, im anticipating an upward kickback. Riving knife or no, that is just the opposite and equal reaction of the cutting force.
  13. I would have enjoyed the first coat on those drawer fronts. the whole time i worked on my bed frame with similar walnut crotch panels, i kept thinking how good the panels would ultimately look. First coat of finish exceeded those expectations. Looking at the unsanded pics, i knew the fronts would be awesome. They didnt disappoint.
  14. Great execution. Cant say i care for the lumber choice though. Maybe you cant source sapele or mahogany where you are, which is understandable, but i would have done cherry in lieu of oak. The more and more GG work i see, i think it almost has to be sapele/honduran mahogany with ebony plugs and splines for it to be "right". Its similar to owning a Blue Ferrari. Still a beautiful car, but id forever look at it thinking it ought to be red. . If you were doing it over again, would you stray from the plans on the height of the headboard? Is the darrel peart plug jig an article in FWW or similar? Heck, i own the guild build with him, and im not sure if i remember a plug jig... Making dozens and dozens of those suckers is incredibly annoying.
  15. Between Marc and everyone else the last 4-5 years, i feel like ive been slowly brainwashed into thinking japanese chisels are unequivocally the greatest thing in the world. I cant stomach $100+ a chisel and a 6 month lead time, so i kept my eye on the used circuits for awhile. Ended up buying a smorgasbord of used chisels over the weekend. I also just bought a set of PMV11s 3 weeks ago, and these eastern chisels will need to be pretty good to sway me from my western roots.
  16. Rule of thumb, you can get a 12" machine in good condition and single phase for under $2,000. 16" machine you will be hard pressed to find one in single phase electric, and the good euro 3 phase machines are typically in the $3,000+. 20"+ is just a rare bird. I see the occasional machine for sale here or there, but they arent common in north america. Ive watched a few martin T54s sell for 11-18k, there was a very nice Kolle(german) 20" machine in california for $7500 over the summer. Casolin 20" machine near chicago for $5500ish a few months ago. There was a 24" northfield that sold for a pretty pennty at an IRS auction within the last 6 months. I paid $3k for my machine and it was misrepesented as a 16", and the guy knew it was green and thats about it. I went back and checked on that northfield jointer. $8400 PLUS buyers premiums. Easily at or over $10k.
  17. Those are typically $1000 or less. I think another woodtalk forum member bought one months ago for $500. Maybe close to his price if its been restored, contemporary cutterhead, and it comes with a VFD etc.
  18. Is it just the splitter? Sharkguard makes a splitter to fit the Biesemeyer quick release bracket. I had one on my Delta Unisaw.
  19. I like that you kept the sap at the top of the crotch. That always looks like a setting/rising sun on the horizon to me. The color vibrancy can be awesome in person, because the curl and crotch continues into the sap. Atleast in the crotches i collect and use. I always keep an eye out of yard trees etc. and buy short walnut logs for this very reason. Yard trees and otherwise unusable short logs can be fantastic drawerfronts. A+ on the drawerfronts' grain and overall arrangement. I will have to go back through the rest of the thread to see what the case structure looks like, but forgive me for saying the rest of the build is a little blah. The drawerfronts were always going to be the star of the show, and im not suggesting more figure in the legs or rails, but i think they do need more nuance to them. Frankly, im guilty of the same critiques leveled against my own designs. My idea usually has one or two things that command all my attention and creative focus and the rest just goes together to make the original happen. Great piece, looking forward to final finish. Gotta oil that crotch despite the rest of your finishing schedule.
  20. While this tool is interesting, i think he needs to score a shoulder prior to using that machine to cut the cheeks. Why do 2-3 steps when you can do one? If you are interested in efficient tenoning, then you should pick up a big shaper with sliding table and clamps, or wait around for an auction with a tenoning machine. The powermatic 2A models are usually kinda cheap at auction. Something like that machine will take up a bit of real estate and be a one or two trick pony. On the other hand, a 5-9hp shaper can do many things for you. A lighter machine can do half the tenon at once, and cost you a lot less. Also, give you the opportunity to have a single phase machine. Whitehill will counterbore their rebate head to allow the spindle nut to sit below the top of the cutterhead. This means even lightish machines like my felder 700 can cut pretty large tenons using the shaper. Just takes me two passes versus doing it in one go with stacked 8" diameter tenon discs. If you routinely make tenons less than 3" in length, you can probably get away with stacked tooling on a machine like mine.
  21. Id say that turned out pretty well. No need to apologize for biscuits or screws. At a certain point, things need to be value engineered to a practical sense. You can choose to not answer this, but did you keep track of your hours and costs? How did you do overall? Ive done hundreds of commissions of the years, but never a piece of furniture more complex than a bench. I keep a clipboard with each project as i work on it for knowing who ordered it, how much, dimensions, and then i also track materials and time. I clock in and out on the margin as i move along with the project. At the end i tally up my material costs, add $100ish for glue, sharpening, electricity, sandpaper,and finish, and see what i netted per hour. I ask because ive turned away more complex builds wary of hosing myself. For example, people have asked me to build a king bed frame. Overall my own king bed went smoothly except for adding drawers for my wife. Getting the web frame structure in place to disassemble along with the rest of the bed, but still hit tolerances and have a proper looking/operating set of big drawers was such a pain. I think back on that project, and i would have had to be around $5000 for me to make my typical shop rate plus materials. I can almost guarantee before the onset of the project i would not have thrown out a $5k bid. Sounds like you got to enjoy working with solid materials on someone else's dime, but hopefully you walked away with enough to buy a tool or two as well.
  22. Nah, not specifically at your saw, just in general. I don’t think much dust is going through the cabinet bevel hole etc. Your saw is kinda what mine looked like only my port was on the saw. Same, I paid $150ish for my saw along with two others for the same price. 3 phase though.
  23. I ran a 6” line to the bottom of my unisaw under the motor and it did a great job. Does your unisaw have the sloped interior cabinet? That combined with the chip deflector in front of the blade direct all the dust to the dust port. It’s not as effective as being right under the blade, but those old saws don’t have the room for a shroud. I dont know if ow if I agree with plugging up every single hole and opening. Where does your makeup air come from? If I’m sucking 1000+cfm at my port and I only have the ZCI open, how does that work? In this situation if you truly want Pentz level collection you need to move more air. If you are 18” from the source of the dust you need more cfm than if you are 1”. I had a 3hp cyclone that was rated around 1500-1600cfm. 6” on the bottom of the unisaw and 4” down to 2.5-3” for an over arm guard. Things stayed pretty clean on that saw.
  24. I’m confused what you are asking for. Are you saying you don’t have a dust port on the saw and your only opening is 3.5” by 13.75”? On my old unisaw I had enough room for a 6” port there. I ended up fabing a port with a hose coupler and plywood. I need a photo of your saw, but some models of the unisaw had a custom dust port to fit that opening. I briefly owned a few unisaws with that very adapter I’m talking about. Does your saw have a biesemeyer fence or unifence? My recommendation would be to go look for hvac registers. You should be able to get something close to the size of your opening. Combine that with plywood, sheet metal screws, and some hvac tape and you will be there. Unfortunately, most dust collection mods to vintage tools are rarely beautiful.
  25. Ah, damn, im too late. You guys need to buy from holbren, the cutters are like 50-70% the cost of the festool branded ones. Also, is a lot cheaper to buy the domino assortments from, i think. I advocate for the 700 big time, but if you do most of your work with 3/4" ply then i think the 500 is better. The only time the 500 beats the 700, in fact. 500 resting on its base almost centers the mortise in 3/4", i believe. The 700 leaves about 1mm of material above or below the mortise when referencing off the base.