phinds

Another thing you could do it put a layer of that heavy plastic goop that smooths out to a thick clear finish that is much tougher than the wood.

Cedar (not "ceddar") is generally pretty soft so a table would dent pretty easily. EDIT: beat to the punch by drzaius

Actually, I go to 1200 for the pics for my site but for ID 400 is usually enough and depending on the wood you can sometimes get reliable ID at 220 or so. For example, to tell if something is ring porous oak 220 is probably more than enough. Live oak can take a bit more.

Sadly, there is not. I sell very little. In fact I'm in the process of burning 60 of my bowls in the BBQ pit because I love making them and won't stop but they are seriously cluttering up the house. I have about 250 unsold ones laying about in boxes and on shelves and need to get rid of some of them.

Well, It's a bit of a cross between the two. Having done over 500 laminated bowls, I have a good feel for what stuff will look like when paired up.Insert other media

I normally just do laminated bowls but lately have done some candle holders, both turned and non-turned, and some business card holders. Almost everything is still laminate. Here are some of them:

I normally make laminated bowls and haven't post any here for quite a while. Lately I've made a few candle holders. Here are some of the turned one:

It's a tough, splintery wood that looks great when finished (and the more quartersawn the better) but it's tough on tools. I've never tried using hand tools on it but I would imagine that would be very difficult. It's very tough on planers. http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/leopard.htmPanopsis rubescens

On my wood ID resources page, here: Wood ID Resources I have totally upgraded the section on books. In addition to adding clickable links for all the books to the Amazon page where you can buy the book, I've also expanded the descriptions of most of them. I have also finally added Eric Meier's Wood! with both the Amazon link and a link to my full review of it. I've done a few other cleanups here and there including dropping a couple of dead links.

Well, that's what my web site is all about

Not when you look at them up close. They are VERY easy to distinguish. Even if you don't clean up the ends well enough to see the banded parenchyma (which CLEARLY distinguishes them), hickory has pores that change somewhat gradually from large to small all the way through the growth ring whereas ash makes that change quickly and then has very small pores through the rest of the ring. hickory and white ash:

Plum is often gorgeous when first cut but it won't last and there's nothing you can do about it. Here's a piece with a pic by the owner (this one is relatively unseasoned) before he had it for a while and then sent it to me and then one after I'd had it for a short time (my pic is of dry wood, very slightly aged).

So, are we supposed to guess what they look like?

The ray flakes seem too numerous / strong / long for mahogany but believable for sapele. The wood in the full carcass does not appear to be the same wood as the drawer. Is it? Can you get a closeup of the carcass where it shows cathedral grain?