BobInAustin

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About BobInAustin

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Turning, boxes and furniture.

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  1. I didn't know these existed until someone on the Wood Whisperer Facebook group posted about them. Bosch LS010 (there are others) is a laser that replaces the factory washer on the saw. It creates a laser line exactly where the cut will be. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GH6YYO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Very cool upgrade.
  2. Thanks Bob! That seems to be everything I need except the skill. I'll get past my analysis paralysis and work on a profile.
  3. Oops. Yes. https://lostartpress.com/collections/apparel/products/letterpress-anarchists-tool-chest-posters I think that is part of my problem. I don't know what to start with. I think I'll try CShaffer's idea below. But then after the profile idea is worked out, I'm still not sure if i should do 4 pieces or one long piece and then cut it.
  4. So I have the Lost Art Press print of the ATC and I've been trying to figure out what to do with it. It's too nice for the shop so I thought I would frame it and hang it in the office. That led me to think it would be nice to make the frame by hand. I have a set of hollows and rounds that I haven't used yet and thought this would be a good time. Problem is I can't seem to find much on the interwebs about picture frame profiles nor a process for making one. My thought it to figure out how long of a piece I need and plane it all at once. Then cut it in half and match the opposite ends with the cut ends. After that just proceed with normal picture frame construction. I'm having a hard time figuring out an appealing profile that isn't too much for a first time and also concerned about the profile being consistent enough so that the corners all match up well. Anyone have some insights or resources on doing this? Thanks.
  5. Thanks everyone. I did get it working by bending the arm but they finally had an engineer look at it and they're sending me a new base. Of course I've already stood the machine up.
  6. Thanks. I'll have another look at it this morning. I've also sent an email to Sawstop.
  7. I started assembling my mobile base and it doesn't look right to me. The lever you would step on the release engages to the one that runs to the other side of the saw. Except on mine it can slide right past it. Doesn't seem like it would actually lock into place. I realize it may behave differently with weight on it. I don't want to stand it up and try it because setting it back down would not be fun and my back is crap to begin with. Anyone have any ideas or know if this is normal? https://goo.gl/photos/cHHKPgdEyH6EucuS9
  8. Thanks. The price difference on the Grizzly 454 is $700 to go up to their spiral head. All of those cutters are straight. The Shelix cutters are at an angle and that one is $1170+ labor and any tool rental/purchases to swap the bearings. The Hermance would be $2500. Wow! That one is out. Analysis paralysis.
  9. Well I'm looking at a new planer so that's a good thing. But really the difference I am referring to is how the Shelix blades are skewed vs. how the Grizzly blades are not. As a result of that, is any noticeable cut quality difference between the two and if so, is it worth paying the extra cost for he Shelix version.
  10. That's the issue I guess. It is cheaper to buy it with the Grizzly spiral already installed than to buy the straight knife version and then install a Shelix. Just was curious if there is much of a difference.
  11. I see that the Grizzly heads have the cutters at 90 degrees while aftermarket ones have the heads skewed. Anyone have thoughts on how much better that would be?
  12. Seems even Grizzly doesn't know for sure. lol I have been looking at the 454Z, 454ZW, and 1033X and the spec sheets on both of the 454s say China. Tech support did tell me that the W was from a different manufacturer. No idea which is better or worse though. The knurled outfeed roller on the W has me concerned about the finish off of the machine however. Seems like the 454Z might be the better path.
  13. A watt meter and amp meter will do it also. You can also do it with a DMM but I wouldn't do it with mains because you'd have to insert a resistor in series with the load. Problem with an oscope is you'd need an amp probe, right? I wonder if it would make much difference in a home shop. I rather spend more money on planes and saws than a reactive power compensation bank.
  14. A capacitor bank tuned for each motor would help the power factor. Typically we don't care in our houses because we don't use enough power to worry about the crappy power factor but you will see this a lot more in industrial shops were the load is heavy and is nearly all inductive because of the motors. Figuring out the power factor of each tool would be a challenge though.
  15. So every 2 or 3 boards, you will then have to make (square up) 2 more blocks for the jig? So to square 3 boards, you have to really square up 5, 2 of which will be used for the jig and for which you'll have to do by hand (sans jig). Also how are you going to deal with wind from the Workmate?