bradpotts

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Everything posted by bradpotts

  1. Thanks for advice Drew. There are a few reasons for the way that this process is done in this particular way. The First is the cross pieces makes sure that when you adhere the top and bottom panels in the vacuum bag, the top and bottom to not become wavy when the air is sucked out of the bag. The second is that it adds more glue surface. Finally, in my opinion it feels more solid. You can knock on the piece and it doesn't sound hollow. The problem with using solid wood as apposed to MDF it has a tendency to bow. If you glue a bowed board for the long perimeter, you will then need to re-square the whole panel. With MDF you can make the perimeter to final length and width and flush trim the top and bottom pieces. I would use a different material for the perimeter if for the joinery you plan on is putting dominos or screws in it. I think you are seeing this process only through the eyes of strength.
  2. For these panels, They are going to be glued into dado's.
  3. The way that I cut them is to cut them all to length and then tape them all togeher. Then I use a miter gauge to push them through a 1/4" dado blade. I do add a very small spacer in the dado blade so they all fit together nicely.
  4. I have been building a lot of projects lately where the clients want thick looking pieces. Because I usually use mdf for veneering, weight starts to become an issue. So this is how I tackle that problem. I build a torsion box with 1/4 veneer on the top. Using 1/4" mdf for the cross pieces and 3/4 mdf for the outside box part. Then glue the 1/4" mdf veneer panel on top. I make the veneer panel oversized and trim down the excess with a flush trim bit. Hopefully this helps anyone with a similar problem.
  5. They turned out great! Nice and clean look.
  6. Turned out great! I really like the contrasting leg cuffs.
  7. I have a friend that I play softball with who asked me if I wold make a baseball holder. He asked if I could make something like this. Unfortunately, I was unable to make him one like that. I did find some time to make him one though. It is made from Bubinga veneer and Cherry. Finished with Arm-R-Seal satin.
  8. Beautiful! The line and berry looks amazing!
  9. For the back panel, I would go horizontally. The hinges, you would want frameless inset hinges. If you are worried about it hitting the trim, you could go with a 95 degree.
  10. I agree, I would also use a track saw to make this miter cut.
  11. Turned out beautifully! The bowl adds a lot of character to it.
  12. Turned out great. I'm sure they will love it!
  13. Looks great! I really like the design.
  14. I don't remember how long it took the first time. I leave it set up all year round. I would guess maybe an hour. I did replace the tarp part last year. It lasted about 2 and a half years. I had a fan in there for a little while but it didn't really do anything. I just leave the door part open and haven't had any problems.
  15. I took one of those Harbor Freight portable car canopy's and made a spraying shed out of it. It's not overly nice but it gets the job done.
  16. Turned out nice! Great job on the upper moulding.
  17. I want to say that the top and bottom veneer was 3/16 each. That would make the poplar core 1 3/8. I made the veneer oversized though to make sure that I could run it through the jointer and planer and not get down to the "core" Here is a picture of what it looks like.
  18. Similar to Drew, hand sand small parts with 400. Larger panels 400 with the sander turned all the way down.