bradpotts

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Everything posted by bradpotts

  1. Turned out great. I'm sure they will love it!
  2. Looks great! I really like the design.
  3. I don't remember how long it took the first time. I leave it set up all year round. I would guess maybe an hour. I did replace the tarp part last year. It lasted about 2 and a half years. I had a fan in there for a little while but it didn't really do anything. I just leave the door part open and haven't had any problems.
  4. I took one of those Harbor Freight portable car canopy's and made a spraying shed out of it. It's not overly nice but it gets the job done.
  5. Turned out nice! Great job on the upper moulding.
  6. I want to say that the top and bottom veneer was 3/16 each. That would make the poplar core 1 3/8. I made the veneer oversized though to make sure that I could run it through the jointer and planer and not get down to the "core" Here is a picture of what it looks like.
  7. Wow! That is really Beautiful!
  8. The box turned out beautiful!
  9. Similar to Drew, hand sand small parts with 400. Larger panels 400 with the sander turned all the way down.
  10. Thanks guys! Hopefully someone will come across this one day and be inspired to build something.
  11. Got some edited shots of the record cabinet. The cabinet was made from Ebony, Holly, Fiddleback English Sycamore and Walnut. The design changed a little over time, mainly just taking out one set of the dividers. The client was very pleased with it, which made all the work well worth it. The build process can be found here
  12. Beautiful Mick! The inlay really brings it all together. The 1 1/4 edging gives it a really nice heavy feel too.
  13. Shane I think the design looks good. The only thing that I noticed was that the size of the opening for the drawers seems small. The top drawer opening by the fridge is 4". If you make your drawers the same way that I do, a 4" drawer opening will give you a 3 1/4 drawer. This will give you 2 1/2" of actual drawer depth with under-mount soft close drawer slides. Maybe you are doing something different then I do, if so disregard but maybe something to look into.
  14. There is another book called WoodWorking Wisdom and Know-How Everything you need to know to design, build, and create. This will help you along your journey.
  15. Here is a great resource to help with the construction of this project and many others you might attempt to build in the future. The book is called (Cabinetmaking How to Design and Construct Furniture That Works) By Bill Hylton
  16. Back to new! looks good.
  17. Took a little time off to go camping with the kids. Just what I needed to get out of the city for a while. Got a little hectic trying to get as much done as possible to be able to go and relax and not think about the clients waiting for me to get back to them. So here is the progress. First thing was to cut the mortises fort the legs. I used the template that I made earlier and attached them with screws. I used the router to cut out the mortis with a guide and a 1/4 upcut bit. The mortis's are 3/4 deep. Then I cut a block to fit the mortises. Making sure that they are tight. I took it over to the drill press and cut out the hole for the felt pad. Then drilled for the bolt that will go in the threaded insert. I took the blocks drilled for the screws and the threaded insert. I was then able to put double sided tape and position the feet where I wanted them. This allowed me to drill the holes using the prior holes and position the feet just where I wanted them. Then It was as easy as sliding the feet on and bolting them down. I veneered the top arc piece and made a jig to figure out the angle to cut the bottoms. Once I had the angles, I was able to take them over to the bandsaw and cut the angle. Then I put some 80 grit sand paper down on the cabinet and rubbed the arc over the sandpaper until it sat flat on the cabinet. Then I made the front pieces that are going to help hold the glass. Did some touch up sanding and started to put finish on. I ended up using Osmo Top oil to finish this cabinet. The reason is that because it is made from veneer, if there was ever any scratches etc. you could just sand the spot and add some more oil. It also brings out the ebony.
  18. This is looking great so far! I guess I didn't notice the back pieces from the design because the sides caught my attention. Thanks for the update on the router. I have wondered if they would have enough power for something like that.
  19. Now for the top. I started by making the curved piece that will hold the glass. To do this, the first thing I did was to make a template with my cnc. Because my cnc is small, I made it in two parts and glued it together. Once I had that made, I was ready to start making the form. I glued some mdf together. I couldn't glue all of it together at once because my flush trim bit wan't tall enough. I traced the shape and took it over to the band saw and rough cut the shape. Once that was done I took it over to the router and flush trimmed it. Once that was done, I glued the two sections together and my jig was done. It's important when doing this that you mark the center of your curve and anything that you bend. Once you bend your material, it is hard to figure out exactly where center is. Then I took my 1/4 mdf sheets and glued them down using the form I just made. I found this method to be the easiest when bending. I put the center of the jig on the corner of a work surface. Then with the first clamp, I clamp the material and the jig to the table. Then I continue down the jig. This helps hold the jig in place while you are clamping the rest. I also clamp the material together because it has a tendency to shift away from each other. Once all the clamps are on one side, then I take the center clamp off and reclamp it, not on the table. Then flip it over and add clamps to the other side. Took it out of the jig and put it up to see if I should restart or continue. I think the proportions will look pretty good so I will keep it. Then I made a jig to start cutting the mortis for the legs. I will use a router to route out the inside of the legs.
  20. Here is an example of using pocket door slides to flip up. They are the three in the center.
  21. FLIPPER DOOR SLIDES Accuride offers slides for cabinet-level pocket (vertical) and flipper (horizontal) doors. These doors either retract into the cabinet or (as in the 1145 and 1155) above it. A pocket door is taller than it is wide, and opens outward. A flipper door is wider than it is tall, and lifts ("flips") open like a garage door. These retractable openings allow for easy access to contents and keep doors from being in the way. Some models of Accuride slides support both pocket and flipper doors. (See product descriptions for more information.)