bradpotts

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Everything posted by bradpotts

  1. This is looking great so far! I guess I didn't notice the back pieces from the design because the sides caught my attention. Thanks for the update on the router. I have wondered if they would have enough power for something like that.
  2. Now for the top. I started by making the curved piece that will hold the glass. To do this, the first thing I did was to make a template with my cnc. Because my cnc is small, I made it in two parts and glued it together. Once I had that made, I was ready to start making the form. I glued some mdf together. I couldn't glue all of it together at once because my flush trim bit wan't tall enough. I traced the shape and took it over to the band saw and rough cut the shape. Once that was done I took it over to the router and flush trimmed it. Once that was done, I glued the two sections together and my jig was done. It's important when doing this that you mark the center of your curve and anything that you bend. Once you bend your material, it is hard to figure out exactly where center is. Then I took my 1/4 mdf sheets and glued them down using the form I just made. I found this method to be the easiest when bending. I put the center of the jig on the corner of a work surface. Then with the first clamp, I clamp the material and the jig to the table. Then I continue down the jig. This helps hold the jig in place while you are clamping the rest. I also clamp the material together because it has a tendency to shift away from each other. Once all the clamps are on one side, then I take the center clamp off and reclamp it, not on the table. Then flip it over and add clamps to the other side. Took it out of the jig and put it up to see if I should restart or continue. I think the proportions will look pretty good so I will keep it. Then I made a jig to start cutting the mortis for the legs. I will use a router to route out the inside of the legs.
  3. Here is an example of using pocket door slides to flip up. They are the three in the center.
  4. FLIPPER DOOR SLIDES Accuride offers slides for cabinet-level pocket (vertical) and flipper (horizontal) doors. These doors either retract into the cabinet or (as in the 1145 and 1155) above it. A pocket door is taller than it is wide, and opens outward. A flipper door is wider than it is tall, and lifts ("flips") open like a garage door. These retractable openings allow for easy access to contents and keep doors from being in the way. Some models of Accuride slides support both pocket and flipper doors. (See product descriptions for more information.)
  5. I think they go by two names in US. 1st flipper door slides and 2nd pocket door slides.
  6. Not sure if you guys are interested but I usually get my under mount slides from cabinetparts.com. Their prices are pretty reasonable especially if you are buying a bunch. They have different manufacturers as well.
  7. Got everything glued up. This was the part that I was dreading. Because the inside of the cabinet was a light wood and the outside a contrasting wood, I only had the thickness of the veneer to be off or the lighter wood would show through. This meant I had a tolerance of 1/64. Unlike solid wood projects where you can just sand the two to blend the wood together, I can't because I would burn through the veneer. I used epoxy to give me some extra time to clamp everything together. This helped a lot with getting everything aligned. I also tried to get as little glue everywhere as possible so I don't have that much touch up sanding to do. Here is what she looks like now. O Here is the walnut back. On to the top!
  8. ha ha it is definitely heavy. A two person move.
  9. Looks good! You will probably be the only person to ever criticize them. That’s what makes building things for yourself hard. I like the shelf over the laundry.
  10. Almost have have everything ready for glue up so I needed to take care of a problem. I dropped the corner of one of the shelves and needed to fix it. Although, it is on the back of the cabinet behind the back, and no one will see it, I felt it needed addressing. This was a little bit more labor some than the previous touch ups. Because I dropped the shelf, the fibers were smashed in. The first thing I did was add some mdf dust and glue to bring the mdf all the way up to the veneer. Then I put the veneer in my router to measure the thickness. After that, I was able to route the mdf back down to the thickness of the veneer so it will sit flush with the surrounding veneer. Used a chisel to trim it up. Then cut the new piece of veneer. Bingo Then I started to address the sides. I need them to be square to the sides so they will not have any gaps when attaching the sides. To do this, I made a simple sanding jig that is set at 90 degrees with some sand paper. I ran it along the edge until all of the pencil marks were gone. I sanded everything and am getting ready for glue up.
  11. Now that I have my backs fully veneered, I knew the thickness to make my dados for the back panels. I used a spiral downcut bit with the Bosch edge guide. The edge guide didn't have long enough rails to run from the front to where I wanted the dado, so I made some new rails. I just bought some 3/8 metal rods and cut them down. Sanded them a little and put bluing on them. Then cut the dados making small passes each time and keeping the fence up against the front. Then I cut the center partition and put some dominos in there for alignment.
  12. Yeah the method is similar to hammer veneering. I was thinking, I think the best method for using contact cement would be if you were working on something vertical. Like working on wall panels or changing the wood type of mission style cabinet door.
  13. ^ I was wondering the same thing.
  14. I worked on the back of the backs today. I decided this is an expensive piece of furniture let's try something that I have never done before. I decided to get paperbacked veneer and attach it with contact cement. I started off by cutting the veneer down. I bought two pieces that came 2'x8'. Then I sanded both the mdf and the veneer sheet with 80 grit sand paper until they were no longer shiny. Then I applied the contact cement to both the mdf and veneer. I first tried to apply it with a glue roller. This left too much glue. I then used a squeegee. This was way better at spreading the glue evenly. Here is the contact cement that I used. I let the glue dry until it was shiny and didn't look like there was glue on there. It took about 35 minutes. Then I just put the two pieces together trying to keep them straight. This was a little difficult because you pretty much only get one shot. Once they are together, I used a flattening tool to get a good bond. I started in the center and worked my way to the ends. Then moved up and down the veneer starting at the center every time. Here is the tool I used. They turned out well. Although this was a good learning experience, I don't think I will use this method very often. There are a couple things that I don't like about this approach. 1st the glue doesn't every dry hard. Because this piece is recessed into dados, it is not a big deal. However it doesn't feel like it will hold up as well as using veneer glue. 2nd, It's a mess. This stuff is hard to clean off of things. 3rd, you have pretty much one shot at putting the veneer on the panel the way you want it. I can see where this can come in handy though. If you needed to put veneer on something that you were unable to put into a vacuum bag or clamps, this would be the way to go. All in all, a great skill to have learned but it has a special place in the veneering world.
  15. Turned out great! The carving really puts the final touch on it.
  16. I started on the inlay banding for the top. When using veneer or cutting veneered plywood, its important to not chip out the veneer on the end grain. To avoid this, I first start by taking an exacto knife and a square to scoring a line where my spiral downcut but is going to run. Then I place the bit on the line. I spin the bit by hand with it touching the veneer. I use the outside of the bit mark to adjust my square. Then I score another line on the opposite side. This will keep your veneer from chipping out. Then go ahead and cut the veneer. I cut mine 3/16 wide by 1/8 deep. I use a bosch router with a bosch edge guide. Then cleaned up the corners with a chisel. Made all of the holly banding. Cut it with a little miter gauge jig and pull saw. Then adjusted the fit with a shooting plane on a 45. Cleaned it up with a plane and card scraper.
  17. Yeah mine does drain the batteries quick. I think it is because on these types if you move the caliper at all it turns on. Maybe it wouldn't be such an issue if it only turned on or off with the button. I usually just keep a bunch of batteries laying around. I usually have to change them about every 3-4 months.
  18. I put the edging on the sides of the legs. I used the rabbiting bit showed earlier in the thread. I set the bit with this jig. It is super easy to make and has come in extremely handy. It is just a harbor freight caliper held into a piece of mdf by a bolt. After I cut all the rabbits, I cut the edging. It was leftover from the offcuts from the other edging. I taped all of the edging on similar to what I did in previous steps. Cleaned everything up with a scraper. There are a couple reasons to put the edging on the veneers. 1st it protects the corners of the veneer. 2nd it helps with sanding through the edges and it also adds some detail. 3rd it helps with any chip out that might have happened when trimming the veneer.
  19. I know this post is old but here is how I built my swing. I built the dimensions around the mattress that I bought. I bought a mattress that has a type of plastic to keep the water from soaking into the mattress. It is made from Redwood and the back angle is 15 degrees. I think all of the joints are dominos?
  20. looking good! I wish I would have thought about attic access when I was laying out my shop. Where the ladder comes down is right over my table saw.
  21. Here is what I came up with to glue the veneer onto the legs. I just took an extra piece of the 10 degree off cut and glued it to the mdf cauls. Sometimes I had to used another clamp holding the caul and the leg down to keep it from sliding up after applying the glue. I used 15 min epoxy to glue it down. It seems like this isn't as slippery as veneer glue.
  22. I was finally able to get some of my other projects under control and start to focus on this again. I cut the dominos in the sides and the shelves. I probably went a little crazy but better to be safe than sorry. I am still waiting on the backer veneer for the back of the backs. So I turned my focus to the feet. First thing I did was to make a template and make sure that I liked the size on the cabinet. Then glued up some blocks of poplar and got to cutting. I used the my miter saw to cut the ten degree angles on all of them. After I had them all cut, I trimmed all of them down to the same size. I did this with my crosscut sled, scrap piece cut to 10 degrees and a clamp. Today I will work on veneering all of them.
  23. I love this idea Coop. Turned out really nice and functional.
  24. ha ha I think the patience is the skill!