bradpotts

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Everything posted by bradpotts

  1. I got the backs veneered and the dividers. I am now on the painstaking work of trimming up the edging. This gets tricky because I do not want to burn through the veneer. I am using a hand plane and scraper to clean them up.
  2. Looks great! Love the idea for some privacy.
  3. I got started adding the edging. I mitered the edges and glued it down. I just used tape as clamps to hold it down. After removing the tape. Same process for the shelves. Here is a little trick when doing miters like this. If you try and glue the piece down while fitting your miters, they always have a tendency to move on you. What I do for this is use titebond quick and thick and glue the edging together making it one piece. Then glue the whole piece into place. Finally got an idea of what this is going to look like.
  4. Sorry about your loss. The box is beautiful!
  5. For the rabbets that I am cutting around the panels, I use this rabbeting bit set from Whiteside. It has come in very handy over the years. The rabbets are 3/16x3/16. Before I cut the rabbits, on the crossgrain, I like to score the veneer with a knife before I cut them. This eliminates the tear out. Rabbets cut and anything extra cleaned up with a shoulder plane. There were some little pieces that were missing that broke off before glue up. I thought this would be a perfect time to address them. The most noticeable one. I used a chisel to get rid of any underlying glue. Then I took a piece of packing tape and traced around the missing piece. I found a similar grain color and direction and cut the piece out. Glued it in using super glue. Then trimmed the excess off. Then I moved on to cutting the shelves down to size and getting them ready for the edging. Then I cut the edging out of a holly board that I had, making them just over 3/16x3/16
  6. Yeah it is a lot more work, but the choices in woods makes it worth the trouble.
  7. I like the stopped dovetail.
  8. I started to put on the edging so that I can cut the rabbits for the edge banding. First, I cut some strips of ebony veneer. Then, I made some cauls out of mdf and thin foam and covered them with foam. Similar to before. Then clamped them down with pipe clamps. I used Unibond One for this. Once the glue was dried, I tried off the excess with a exacto knife . I then used a rasp to clean up any veneer that was still overhanging by only using the push stroke towards the panel. Here is how they turned out.
  9. Sorry guys! I edited my post. I kept saying bar clamps and meant pipe clamps. Although, I also have a lot of bar clamps but I wouldn't put them in the same category as parallel clamps.
  10. I used the track saw because I glued the bottom on after the top so they were not parallel. Now the front is my square reference to cut the back.
  11. I think it is a preference thing. I only use pipe clamps. The main reason is because pipe clamps are cheaper and you can adjust the length by switching the size pipe. I also like that they are lighter and I can get more clamping pressure. I don't like the plastic deals they put on them so I cut pieces of cork and glue them on with spray adhesive. This helps keep from marring the wood especially if you have to glue something up after finishing it. I do this with face frames for cabinets.
  12. Next step, I cleaned up the fronts of the shelves by cutting them with a track saw and running them through the jointer. The fronts are going to have a 3/16 edging that goes around the square fronts. So, I used the domino to make sure that my spacing was right. I also taped around where the front is because I don't want to have to deal with squeeze out when I glue on the edging. Because the thickness for the square front is only 3/16, I made a little jig to cut the dominos down with the bandsaw. I just cut a hole in some mdf that could hold the domino and ride along the fence of the band saw. Then I used a pice of scrap to keep anything from flying out. . Here is what they look like all glued up. The next step was to get the sides cleaned up. I cut everything down leaving 3/16 extra to add edging around the ebony side. Here is a close up of what the lumber core looks like.
  13. Sorry Paul, I misunderstood your question. The stained glass panel is sandwiched between two 1/4" panes of tempered glass. For the side lights, I added some foam between the stained glass and the regular glass and wrapped the whole window with window tape.
  14. There is an inner and outer panel. I just sandwiched the stained glass in between the two.
  15. The first picture and the video were done before I finished the side lights. The second picture taken outside shows the side lights that match. The main joinery is done style and rail just like cabinet doors just with a larger bit. The Dominos were used for more reinforcement and to help keep everything aligned. The door are very similar to making a cabinet door. The part that is a little more difficult is making sure that the hinges line up with the previous door jam hinges.
  16. Here is a door that I completed in December. It is a stave core door. The inside is popular and the outside is Wenge and maple. I also did all of the stained glass. The inlay is their cattle brands, because they live on a cattle ranch. The first one is without the side glass installed. Also there is a short time-lapse of the process.
  17. I would buy the jointer and make the bench with my new jointer!
  18. I was able to finish all of the fronts. The top is the first one that turned out to be the experimental one. You can see the difference it made. The original one was short about 3/4 from the new ones. I made a little different platen because the Holly was very slightly thicker than the ebony. I decided to tape on a very thin piece of foam. This allowed the ebony to be pushed into the glue that was around the ebony. Then taped and glued the fronts. I also finished gluing the bottoms of the shelves. Because the shelves are 3" thick, I needed to make a structure that accommodates that thickness. So I cut some MDF and glued it together to get the thickness. Then I glued on the bottom to give me the shelves.
  19. Maybe something like this might work? https://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt?msclkid=324634ace80e1a7d8f4554c28ccacb11&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=NX_DSA Page Feed&utm_term=All_Products&utm_content=All Products
  20. Yeah I’m very happy with it too. It makes large glue ups so much less stressful when you can apply that much glue quickly.
  21. I decided to reimagine how I was going to proceed. I wasn't happy with the amount of time and effort that the first shelf front took. I think that the main problem was that the thickness consistency of the Holly was the problem. As a result, I decided to reverse the order I did on the first one and make the Holly 1/8" thick. Then I would cut the strings into 1/16" on the bandsaw, then sand them down to 1/64. After I made all the stringing, I made a template with the right angle. I taped the stringing together and cut it all at once . Then I was able to use the guillotine and stop to cut the other angle like I did before. Then tape them all together. This produced a lot more consistent squares. I also got my glue. Finally! I was able to put the two sides in the veneer press and glue them on the MDF. Here is the glue that I use and the lightener if anyone is interested.