andrew-in-austin

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Everything posted by andrew-in-austin

  1. Very nice purchase. This thing will last another 100 years or more. If you can find machines like this in good working order and well maintained, there's rarely anything better for price/performance. Only downside to machines like this are logistics of moving them. If you are looking for new knives, I recently got some T1-HSS rom oellasawandtool. I just found ones with similar dimensions for my 16" L-Power jointer, and set them with a multi-gauge from OneWay.ca
  2. Not sure what you meant by, “wire directly to 3 phase”. Did you skip the switch on the machine? It sounds like the coil in the switch is bad, but skipping that component and wiring directly would have fixed that. This being 3 phase, there should be no capacitors to replace.
  3. Thanks for the tip! I just got the PDC 18/4 kit for $343!
  4. In the USA I paid $28/board-foot for Burmese Teak (old growth). I am not sure how easily it's found anymore. It's really hard to compare to different areas of the world with very different cost of living, but your estimate seems really good to me.
  5. It's possible to joint a 10 foot board on just about any jointer; however, generally the longer the board, the harder it is. When I jointed my boards, I lost a lot of thickness to get out the twist. An 8/4 board can very quickly become a 5/4. Or, you can leave a little bit of twist in it, like a 1/4" overall, and with 10 foot length, forcing that twist flat is quite easy. And yes, the desk is 10 feet long.
  6. Anyone here regularly face joint 10" x 10 foot x 8/4 boards? It's almost impossible to get them perfectly flat. I tried it for my wife's desk, and I had to remove a lot of material. When the boards are that long, The flex in across the entire board is quite a lot, to the point where sometimes bow can be there, or not, depending on what face is up and where the supports are. For twist, jointing can help, but having it perfectly flat is not always necessary, especially if it has something like 1/4" twist across 10 feet. That will never cause a glue up problem or snap back, unless it is 3" thick. There's also the type of table the top goes on. An apron like the one he has has a lot of support. A trestle would have been a lot more important to maintain flatness.
  7. If you are still set on 14” then it would be between Rikon and Laguna for me. pick whichever one you think has better guides.
  8. The other kind of major tool makers I can think of: Rikon, Laguna. For some reason it seems like certain brands get associated with certain tools, like Laguna for bandsaws and PM for table saws. Not sure it really matters. All of these brands are made in China or Taiwan (exceptions for some Laguna), and in some cases come from the same factory.
  9. I showed just one drawer, but I actually have all my drawers in that tool box fitted with various size containers, and I have enough to fill another tool box -just haven't procured another yet. It has cost a couple hundred dollars but absolutely worth it. I probably double my storage density with these things.
  10. I get these from Lee Valley. There are many sizes and help keep the small stuff from being scattered everywhere
  11. You are not overpowering anything. You have a leak somewhere in your cyclone and/or container below it. It has to be perfectly sealed. FWIW, the HP ratings for shop vacs is 100% BS. If you want to know the power of a vacuum, look for the "airwatts" value.
  12. If you have the money, by all means, get the 3 or higher HP dust collector. And if you don't, it's really hard to not get the HF 2HP unit. It's not great, but it's much much better than a shop vac or nothing at all. I think getting that dust collector is a right of passage for woodworking these days. You'll never know how good your future 3 or 5HP dust collector is unless you had the entry level model...
  13. I hear Felder has discounts quite often. Were you able to get it on sale?
  14. I ended up with nordfab. It's very expensive but very pleasing to install. That being said, there's nothing wrong with PVC or other metal ducts. One advantage of metal ducts in general is that many more sizes are available.
  15. It does not make sense that barrel is getting emptied by the cyclone/blower. There's only two ways that can happen: (1) there is a leak somewhere in the barrel, causing air flow from the barrel up the cyclone to the filters (2) there is MASSIVE air turbulence in the barrel caused by the airflow in the cyclone. The cyclones are designed to have virtually no air movement near the opening at the bottom, so dust can settle via gravity in to the barrel. Based on other's experience with the DD, I doubt the air turbulence is a problem inherit to the design of the cyclone. There must be a leak somewhere. It does not take much of a leak to cause this to happen. If you are wanting to move to a different solution, ClearVue is pretty good. I have the CV1800 cyclone and 16" fan, 5HP. The 16" fan is supposed to go with the larger CVMAX cyclone, but it works fine with the CV1800.
  16. It sounds like they are trying to maintain same CFM everywhere, including the 6" duct before your branches, which would imply that you have to run at least two 4" drops all the time. Are all of your tools using 4" connections? If so, then they are probably right in that the section of pipe between the tool connection and the brach may not flow well enough. Personally, I would make every attempt to use either a single 5", or single 6" or 2 x 4" connections to every tool, so you can keep 6" drops and main line. If a tool only had a 4" connection and you cannot make it bigger, see if you can either (1) hook up 5" anyway or (2) add a 2nd 4" connection for "auxiliary" collection, like overhead pickup for you table saw or band saw or router table.
  17. I am a novice when it comes to the dado, but I don't rely on the measured width of the dado stack itself because it is often slightly off from what the actual cut width is. I suspect this is due to the fact that [my] dado stack is not the same width all the way around, probably due to the incredibly sh&tty shims that I have. Is spite of that it produces perfectly flat bottoms, so I guess I cannot complain. Anyway, stack to approximate width, cut & measure, add/subtract, repeat....
  18. Having a "maintaining" on off switch is really nice as you can often direct the sander by the vacuum hose and have absolutely zero vibration in you hand
  19. Might as well go all the way and get this http://jdstools.com/product/multi-router/
  20. I like and own lot of Festool, but just recently sold my ETS125 and RO90 sanders. They are really nice, but I discovered for the price of the ETS125, I could have a Makita 6" random orbit sander. I bought that and the 1/2 sheet Makita (because it was also rated extremely well and 1/2 the price of the Festool RS2). Without hesitation I would put them on equal footing with Festool. These two are made in Japan and are extremely well built. I have been using the 6" sander recently, and I can work with that thing for hours with no problems. When I used the ETS125, it required a bit more control, and I would get a bit of numbness from time to time (I would expect the ETS 150 to similar to the Makita, however, due to it's increased weight over the 125). I can't speak for their other sanders, most of which are probably made in China. I got rid of the RO90 because it is simply too weak for aggressive stock removal. For that I go to my porter cable belt sander.
  21. Your duct design is as important, if not more important, than the dust collector. Long runs of 4" pipe will add significant static pressure. IMO, no 3HP dust collector should have 4" mains. You need minimum 5", but since you can't get that in PVC, go to 6". Get the "DWV" pipe and fittings which should be much cheaper than the schedule 40 stuff. When you add drops, I would continue to use 6" if you can, and connect 5" blast gates and 5" hose to most machines, even if they are 4" ports. I would spend a lot of time coming up with a layout that has as few bends as possible. If that means the pipe needs to be 1 foot off the wall and 2 feet off the ceiling, but gives you nice, straight layout and does not hit your head, then go for that.
  22. I have bought a lot from Carbide Processors (especially router bits) and they are great to work with. However, if you want a really solid, strong clamp for a really good price, try the Bessey TGJ2.506+2k from http://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_f_style.htm These are ridiculously strong, much more than most low end F-style, and they are only $10.99 from peachtree, and include the "2K comfort grip. ...that reminds me, some clamp maker should market a "kung fu grip" for their handles GIJOE!
  23. I adapted this fence to the Incra fence and am very happy with it. I got the 48 inch long version and really like the extra length, make it easier to register the material.
  24. Having 3 phase opens up a lot of options for used equipment, sometimes significantly lower cost than 1-phase equivalent. You can either use a phase converter (rotary or a digital like PhasePerfect) or a VFD (variable frequency drive). With a VFD, you can control the speed of the motor and do other things like motor braking to stop the motor very quickly. 3 HP VFDs, the good ones, are about $200-250 each, and you typically would not share a VFD among many machines, but I guess it might be possible. Phase converters vary on price depending on HP ratings (which typically need to be double the actual tool HP), but they often are used to run several machines, even at the same time.
  25. Comparison chart with country of origin: Not sure I get why the G0454Z which is made in Taiwan is $2200 while the G0454ZW which is supposedly made in China is more at $2600. The G0454Z is "not available for immediate shipment" but it does not indicate they will no longer make or sell them. $2200 for a 20" spiral cutterhead planer is a steal.