Chet

Welcome Gwenn.

If you are happy with the color the way it is I would just give ti a light sanding with 400 grit just to smooth the surface and get rid of any nibs or things of that nature then apply some wipe on poly, light sanding with 400 between coats.  The wipe on polys are clear and won't add any yellowing to your finish.

1 hour ago, wtnhighlander said:

Blame that on the "Cylenol" killings from the Chicago in 1982. Major changes to all sorts of product packaging occurred as a result.

I am assuming you meant Tylenol

2 hours ago, gee-dub said:

 Could this be the woodworker's version of a collectable action figure?

Should be valuable it's NIB.

2 hours ago, woodbutcher said:

Thank you Chet. Its a dovetail way jointer bed, I understand that it can be a real hassle to adjust. Ive heard guys have used feeler gauges to shim them, pop cans cut up, have you ever had to adjust one?

Yes, I had to do my old 6 inch jointer years back.  I didn't find it a hassle, it can be time consuming and I think that is were people get frustrated.  You just need to plan on spending some time.   I think if you are somewhat prepared its not that bad.  I had some shims ready to go, more then I needed but this made it easier because I didn't have to stop to cut more.

1 hour ago, woodbutcher said:

My jointer joints an edge that is a little high in the middle,

This sound like your outfield table is lower at the far end then it at the blade end.  There should be a section in your manual as to how to adjust this.

Ronn that looks like a cool setup and you grandson is grinning ear to ear.

I have the Fuji Pro2.  And have sprayed dewaxed shellac with mine also.   Shellac you will ned a cap and needle around 1.0 or 0.8.  I do wish I had bought just a little more then the Pro2 but it has served me well.

On 11/25/2020 at 5:02 AM, houstonwoodworker said:

And do I need to dilute it ?

Spraying paint take a good machine nothing less then a model like the Fuji Pro2.  Also it is important to have the proper cap and needle.  Something like Benjamin Moores Cabinet coat needs to be diluted about 10% with my Pro2.

The first thing that pops to mind is your glue.  TB3 is a darker glue and cherry a some what lighter wood especially fresh from the milling process and the glue line is going to be more visible.  I know 3 gives more open time and it may note be the problem but it might be a place to start your investigation.

3 hours ago, RichardA said:

That makes an old man remember his youth.  Damn that's a good looking "piece".

3 minutes ago, Chestnut said:

Note entirely sure which directions you are planning the splay but just because the leg is splayed doesn't mean the tenon has the follow suit. The plans show for creating a taper on the outsides of the leg from a large solid block. To achieve a splay a parallel taper would accomplish the same thing and allow for joinery to remain square.

The joinery for the apron sections on the front and sides would still be angled and somewhat complicated. That could be handled multiple ways

Very true.

In fact you usually want to cut any joinery in your parts before you cut the parts to shape.

12 minutes ago, Coop said:

Only if it comes with instructions

Barefoot Coop might need some boots too.

4 hours ago, BillyJack said:

Are you using the woodworking forums to get hits on the internet?

I don't think that is his intention.  I went back and looked through his content he is offering information that may be useful to others and he has responded to questions.

2 hours ago, fcschoenthal said:

one of his first posts included "If you like the video, you can help out by leaving a comment on YouTube - this will move the video up in YouTube searches".

I did remove this comment from that post.

I did a bottom stretcher with slats to match the sides of the chair.  Not doing that, I think would give the ottoman a light, weak appearance.  

And yea, the upholstery is going to sting your wallet a little but I think after all the work you put into it, it is worth having it done by as pro.

Everybody already said everything that I had thought of.  And its good to see you back around.

7 hours ago, Chris C. said:

Ha! Didn't even look at the date. How big a dork do I feel like now!?! 

Happens quite often. You weren't the first and won't be the last.  I've done it myself.

I have to be honest, I have that same block plane and never would have thought of using it for that task.  Thanks

Drew, We have had a vanity top in our master bath for 10 years, it's made by a company called Swanstone.  We have been super pleased with it and it cleans real easy. We purchased it through Lowes but I don't think they carry it any more.  But Swanstone still exists and I am sure they would be able to point you toward a retailer if they don't sell direct.

Its a product that is similar to Corian and the whole thing is molded in one piece.  Our shower enclosure and shower pan are the same thing and the same color which can be nice when planing what you want.

What looks like dark streaking in the picture isn't stains it the faucet shadow. 

After having our kitchen counters done recently in Corian I am not sure I would look at it as a DYI project especially if you want one of their sinks molded in, or the coved back splash which in appearance alone is worth the extra money over the regular splash.  I am sure that you could have the vanity top made by a pro shop and then install it yourself.  Their sinks only come in three shades of white.  Again even though we haven't had the kitchen counter that long we are real happy with the fact there are no seams with the Corian sink.

I used the same technique as Mick on the through tenons on the arm rests.  I think it is a nicer way to get a fit that looks good.

Also if you are close to 6ft tall making the chair a little taller is something to think about.

You have some nice design elements - one thing I would think about is with you cloud lift feature it will probably be better to do actual mortise and tenons for the side slates as apposed to the filler block technique Marc used.  I enjoy the mortise and tenon process so that was the way I was going al along.

Sapele Morris Chair

13 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

I found this post he made a while back:

Also somewhere in his posts is his email.