Dewald Swanepoel

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Everything posted by Dewald Swanepoel

  1. I love the Round Corners plugin and use it all the time. But it seems that there is something with the new SketchUp version (SU2017) that broke it as I can no longer get it to work. As a matter of fact, I've uninstalled the new version and went back to SU2016 for the sole purpose of being able to use this plugin. Have you had any success with SU2017? Another plugin that I absolutely loved was the SU2POV plugin with which you can export your SketchUp scene to POV-Ray to render them in high quality. But that plugin has been broken for several versions now which is a huge pity.
  2. I use Sketchup all the time, often just for fun. I'm a bit obsessive and probably won't take on a woodworking project if I haven't already designed the entire thing in Sketchup. Sometimes it all starts with me playing around on Sketchup and then thinking, hey, I could make this from wood. I redesigned our kitchen in Sketchup. I've modeled our living room in Sketchup and try out colours for painting the walls and placement of artwork on the walls. I've modeled our swimming pool (odd shape) in Sketchup so I can calculate the water volume. I've used that same model to get the dimensions and
  3. With every new version of SketchUp, they break another plugin that I rely on and I'm not getting fed up with that. The whole idea behind these plugins is to open up development of useful functionality to the wider community of SketchUp users. There are lots of plugins out there that was developed, tested and worked. But when they change their framework, the developers of these plugins are not necessarily staying abreast and updating the plugins. The most recent casualty for me is the "Round Corner" plugin by LibFredo6. It was easily one of the most useful plugins I had. It still worked in S
  4. This is very cool, but I suspect not of much use to me. I just tried it on my PC and it works quite nicely, not better than the actual installed application though and so it's pointless for me to run it on my PC. I then tried it in my phone's browser and received a message saying that this service is not designed to work on multi touch mobile devices. The interface was unwieldy and I didn't get far before losing interest and closing it. It's a pity as I would've loved to be able to view Sketchup models on a mobile device - even if I can't edit them.
  5. Gotcha. This is a much more elegant way of dealing with saved components. Thanks.
  6. Where is this "Open or Save a local collection" option? I can't seem to find it anywhere in my Sketchup. I'm using Sketchup Make v16.1.1449
  7. I'm not familiar with the "Open Local Collection" option you mention but I've always just copied and pasted. So I'd do this 1. Open the original Sketchup file. 2. Select instances of all the components you want. 3. Copy them into the clipboard. (Ctrl C) 4. Close the file and open the new file 5. Paste the clipboard (Ctrl V) 6. Now you can delete the pasted instances if you want, the components are still in your components palette. *** EDIT *** Jeez you guys are quick.
  8. Who said anything about this toy being for kids?
  9. I'm not sure I can answer this question. I did draw a fair bit on some very distant memories of Statics/Dynamics from my varsity days. So I started by constructing a free body diagram and tweaked the lengths and swivel points of the components so that I got the desired angle of "flaring" for the available travel distance of the shaft. I gave the wood inside and the arms of the mechanism a good rubbing with beeswax to ease off the friction and I used springs from clothing pins on the ends of the trapezium to provide counter force that returns the horse to the up position.
  10. I'm loving that table top (I assume) in the background. What species of wood have you got in there? Any Project Showcase post that I may have missed perhaps?
  11. Here's a wooden toy I just completed. The horse is made from African Mahogany while the rider is made from European Beech and Panga Panga. My original idea was to devise some kind of mechanism that would limit the wheels to turn only forward. That way, when the rider is pressed down the hind legs would remain stationary while the fore legs move forward and when the rider is released the fore legs would remain stationary while the hind legs catch up. In the end I abandoned that plan as I just couldn't figure out an elegant way of doing that without spoiling the visual appearance of the toy.
  12. Yeah, I already have another passage in the garden behind the swimming pool house which I'm thinking of blocking off with a gate. The hook and band hinges will come in handy for that. And this time I'll take their design into consideration while building the gate.
  13. I just completed a garden gate, 70mm thick, just over 1m tall and just under 1m wide, from African Mahogany. This was my first serious woodworking project since school over 20 years ago. I also had a project journal going as I went along: Before: After: Closer view: Back of the gate (with the reason for the project peeping through the mullions): And here's a picture showing the original design and the final product, side by side:
  14. Final post. The only remaining step was to hang the gate. I hit two very frustrating snags at this point though. First off, I had searched long and hard to find Hook and Band hinges. For some reason, I just couldn't find the stuff at any of the local hardware shops. The problem is that our hardware shops are getting bigger and slurping up the smaller shops (the Walmart effect). But along with them getting bigger, they seem to cater for fewer people - really just the everyday handyman who'd never have any need for a specialised hinge like this. I finally found an online store that carri
  15. If I'm being perfectly honest, I think I would've preferred the ordinary Danish Oil. I'm not even sure in what aspects the two differ really but this outdoor product is also quick drying and I don't think that was too great an idea. I'd pour a little bit on the wood but then, while I'm rubbing it in on one side, it runs off the other side and by the time I get there to rub it in, it's already made run marks and started drying, making it very hard to rub out.
  16. OK, let's wrap this up. Before the gate could be hung there were a few small finishing steps. Of course I had to make mounting posts on which the gate would hang. These consisted of simple boards joined together in an L-shape. The front board gets a rounded top end. This was cut roughly with the bandsaw and then sanded down to the line on the disk sander. Ideally I would've liked to join these with a tongue-and-groove joint or something similar but the sizes of the stock I had available meant that I couldn't afford to cut a tongue in the side boards. I would lose too much wood and th
  17. Thanks guys. I have to stress that this is a first for me. I took woodworking as an extra subject in secondary school, back in the years when that was still an option, but that's been so many years ago that I feel like I'm starting from scratch. I think it was @Janello who mentioned my "interesting" joinery in an earlier comment. I'm sure some of it must be interesting as I basically sucked it from my thumb but I'm not convinced that they're always the best. Please feel free to point out where my joinery are unconventional or less than ideal and what the more conventional ways would be to
  18. The final step for the actual construction stage of the gate is to insert the diagonal brace in the back (light blue board). I started by clamping the board in place on the back of the gate so I could mark the length of the board and also the locations of all the lap joints with the mullions. I chose a top-right to bottom-left diagonal for the brace as I wanted it to resist compression forces, not expansion forces. The hinges will be on the left of the gate as seen from behind like this. I realised once again that I was overly hasty glueing the tongued boards in place. This step would've
  19. Fairly simple. Open the Components Window, right click on the component and select "delete". This will delete the component from your component list and also all the instances of the component in your model, if there are any.
  20. Certainly would. The point is just that the line you create along which to use the follow me tool is outside of your groups/components. But yes, you can go into a component, copy a section, leave the component again and paste in place.
  21. Haha! The question is whether I am worthy of my garden
  22. Oops, I may have a problem then. That last picture is pretty accurate on how much clearance I have inside the grooves. Our humidity in Johannesburg does swing a bit from around 50% in winter to 70% in summer. I'll have to keep an eye on those boards then. I didn't even think of the long grain mullions at right angles to cross grain dados being a problem. I'm not sure how the design should have been different to avoid that though. Can you point me to an article or some pictures perhaps that explain this issue? But yes, so we learn. I suspect I've made some other similar rookie mistakes in th
  23. Moving along; My next step was to tweak the tongued boards that fit between the mullions to sit nicely and have some room for movement. I've already illustrated in a previous post how the tongues were cut and it was a simple matter of adjusting the depth and width of the cut slightly so that the tongues were 5mm longer than the grooves on all sides and also have some play inside the grooves, ending up with this And where the boards meet the middle rail Next I had to fix these in place and, as discussed before, I didn't want to glue them into the grooves. The whole point of these loos