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About ResidentEvil

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 10/20/1975

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  • Location
    Las Vegas, NV
  • Woodworking Interests
    Beginner techniques, tools, fine furniture.

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  1. FYI, I think that the Jet clamp sale isn't exclusive to Woodcraft. At least it wasn't last year. I'm trying to dig up where I bought mine last year, but as long as the distributor honors the sale price you are good to go. I think I bought at acmetools last year. Just be sure to try to get ordered as soon as the website shows they are on sale. I remember reading some who didn't order till later in the day waited a long time for their clamps to come in. Going to build up my stock of 12" this year, after getting 6x of most of the longer sizes last year.
  2. I haven't checked yet, but it's on my list of things to do. I am leery that is the problem though, as I completely vacuumed everything out when I changed the head over and IIRC it was happening basically on the first cut. And to the OP. I know you have probably read a lot of people who say the HH on a jointer is pointless. That may be true, but my experience is that the $ I paid for the head was well worth it and I would do it again if I had to. Its much much quieter, which is almost the price of admission by itself. The finished surface is better slightly by my estimation, but sti
  3. I'm the same as mike. Bought the long bed 6" and then put the byrd head on it. No complaints at all, with the HH its quiet enough that I don't need to run ear pro. The jointed surface is smooth and takes just a little sanding to be finish ready. Only thing I have trouble with is DC. For some reason, after I put the HH on it I get lots of chips coming out the front and back of the jointer where the beds come close to the head. Didn't have that with the straight knife head. Not sure if I didn't reinstall everything correctly or what, but its kind of a pita. I haven't heard others with this is
  4. This happened to me on the house I lived in previously. Wife and I had grand plans to completely re-do the inside. Wood floors throughout, replace all the painted base with stained natural wood, add matching crown molding throughout, replace all the interior doors with natural wood 6 panel doors that are stained to our taste... Were in the house for around 5 years, and one thing lead to another and a lot of those projects were never finished at the point where I needed to sell the house. When we decided to move, I paid a couple family members to come in and we finished all the projects
  5. I can't comment on the lathe, other than I am in the same position. My wife is semi interested in turning, but she gets nervous around the larger tools. My plan is to sign us both up for a beginner lathe course to let her get a feel for it before I jump in. From what I understand, purchasing the lathe is just the tip of the iceberg, and you can get into a decent sum of money in order to get a sufficient setup to do turning. On the bandsaw, I went without one for 2 years in my shop. I just didn't feel it was a "must have" tool. Because I had several projects upcoming that required curv
  6. I bought the CT36 second hand and it came with it. Its not something that I would have considered if I was buying new, but it came with the vac I bought. I'm kind of torn on it because it seems to be very useful, especially to store things close to hand when using the vac...but it also makes it too tall to roll the vac under my outfeed table or workbench to get it out of the way. Its probably not a surprise to anyone who owns festool stuff, but the rack is very solid and well built. Not a cheaply built add on at all. I'm thinking about trying to fabricate a DIY boom arm that attaches t
  7. On a side note, I've seen many opinions on Festool abrasives vs other brands. My main issue is that the festool papers all seem to come in packs of 50 or 100, and are relatively expensive. I was wondering if anyone knows of another brand of paper that fits the ETS150 where maybe you can get packs of 10 or variety packs (or similar). I just dont know that I want to buy (or find a place to store) 100 discs of 4-5 different grits of paper.
  8. Yea, I've had worse problems. Will gladly deal with this one. Thank you! It was from a lumberyard there. My wife's brother has a furniture/cabinet business in NW OK and usually gets his lumber from this yard in OKC. While we were there he took us since the prices were much better than I could get in LV. He also let us peruse through his lumber stash to see if we wanted anything. Got some good Eastern Red Cedar (for about $12 less a BF than can get it in Vegas) and some amazing spalted sycamore that he spalted and cut himself. I'm going to check out the exhibitio
  9. I have completely stuffed my shop to the gills. Hardly any room to move around in there anymore. First was the Laguna 1412, which was nice and I already had a spot set aside in the shop for it. Then came a trip back to Oklahoma. Added a couple hundred board feet of lumber that I had nowhere to put. Combination of barnwood, Peruvian Walnut, Alder, Chituba, Spalted Sycamore, Padauk, Bloodwood, Maple, Beech, Mahogany, Tigerwood, Wenge, Lacewood, Red Cedar, Zebrawood and a couple of really old french doors from an old house on my inlaws property. Then someone just had to post
  10. FWIW, I used Arm-R-Seal semi-gloss to finish a Cherry entry way table and it turned out fantastic. Had thoughts of using Danish oil underneath, but now I'm glad I didn't. The ARS gives it a nice warm tone without the need for oil underneath.
  11. My thoughts are in line with what some others have posted on here. That doesn't look as much like tearout as it looks like indentions from chips getting pressed into the wood by the rollers. Mind you I dont have a HH planer, and maybe I'm not looking at the pic right. But that is what it looks like to me.
  12. I'm assuming that, since he is using domino's already, that the staples are more decorative than structural.
  13. I was only commenting on the comment about breaking down full sheets comment. I dont endorse the idea that a track saw is a replacement for a table saw, just that it can be just as easy to break down sheet goods with one.
  14. I would disagree with this point. Especially for a one person shop without a larger slider type table saw. And accurate track saw, like the Festool, should be able to easily replace a table saw for breaking down sheet goods. Without a lot of space and the right setup, its somewhat difficult to break down sheet goods on the table saw. With a track saw, you can bring the smaller tool to the wood. This is assuming that the operator is able to get the track lined up parallel. Once you get the sheets down to manageable size, or if you are ripping 4" wide stock down to 3.5", is really wh
  15. Is there a votech, community college or other type of school around your area that teaches woodworking classes? Is there a woodworking collective in your area? I can't think of a better term than "collective"...its basically where someone (or several people) have put together a fully equipped shop and allow others to come in and use the shop after taking a intro safety course. You might try these routes to see if working the wood is up your alley before dropping money on tools. I'm very very much in the camp of buying the best tools you can afford the first time around. With the gen