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About lwllms

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  • Birthday February 25

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    Eureka Springs, Arkansas
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    hand tools
  1. It's a Stanley #70 box scraper for recycling wooden boxes.
  2. Hi Derek, I'm aware of the claims of many knife makers about diamonds being absorbed by steel. It's a myth. It's true that carbon can flow in solid steel but the steel has to be at or above critical temperature for that to happen. One can also cause diamonds to change to graphite but it requires high temperatures and an inert atmosphere. Diamonds are pure carbon and they either have a diamond's crystalline structure or they don't. Synthetic diamonds often have traces of impurities but they can't be part graphite. Being pure carbon, diamonds burn like coal and have an ignition point of
  3. There are probably people who grind more plane irons than we do in our shop but not many. We make the irons for all the planes we produce and always have. We've recently made some changes in our grinding set-up and let me show you what we have and explain why. First here are our grinders: A Jet belt/6"grinder combination, a Palmgren 6" high speed grinder, a Baldor 6" high speed grinder, and a Jet square wheel grinder. All but the Baldor have modified or shop-made tool rests. Grinding is a rough shaping operation so we use coarse wheels. All wheels are chosen for their width and, w
  4. There seems to be a lot of speculation here but no supporting evidence. The reality is single iron wooden bench planes continued to be commercially produced well into the 20th Century. Just one example of this is found in the 1872 Greenfield Tool Company catalog. Even the premium planes as well as the boxwood or rosewood ones were available in single iron. Offering more are the 1910 Ohio Tool catalog or the1925 Sandusky catalog which was the last wooden plane catalog published in the US. See the images. I've got a lot more evidence; more evidence than my tremors will allow me to
  5. If you have to lap the sole, corrugations matter. However, corrugations concentrate sole wear to the area just behind the corrugations. If the plane is used much, a corrugated sole will need lapping sooner. Not that this matters much because the leading edge of the mouth of a cast iron plane sole wears faster than other areas.
  6. Just to offer a different opinion. If you're raising a wire edge or burr, you've got the bevel down pat. But the bevel is the easy part of honing and getting an relatively precise angle is pretty easy in a more traditional honing approach. In traditional honing it only takes a couple passes on the honed bevel. The harder part is a truly flat face and a flat sharpening medium. Honing guides cause people to focus on the bevel and ignore the back. Dulling wear happens on both the surfaces that make up an edge and removing the wear on the flat face is easy if you make sure and keep everyth
  7. You'd be far better off with a book by someone who understands trade practice and has actually done this stuff. The best I know of is Charles Hayward and his Cabinet Making for Beginners would be a good place to start. Get an early edition, one before it was "updated" somewhere after 1955. If you read and understand what's in this little 200 page book you'll know more about hand tool techniques than any of the "gurus" I saw mentioned in this thread. Here's a first edition on eBay for about $15 plus postage from the UK: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cabinet-Making-for-Beginners-Charles-H-Hayward-19
  8. Check the tool box for the depth stop, fence and parts for that # 278. If they're there you're very lucky. Even without the additional parts you'll find the #278 is more than worth the effort of tuning up. In my years working as a finish carpenter, my #278 became one of my most frequently used planes.
  9. Chris, The first step in thicknessing is to "get out the stock" or reduce the pieces to rough dimension. This would include getting ends somewhat square. "Thicknessing" is what stock preparation was traditionally called because the goal was to produce straight, true stock of a predetermined and uniform thickness. Anyone who does this knows the "uniform predetermined thickness" is the difficult part. I don't care if you're working by hand or machine; if you want straight, true stock and actual control of finish thickness; you'll reduce stock to rough dimensioned parts before stock preparati
  10. Both ends of the bench are in the photo. I think you're close to understanding why round dogs were a good choice for this bench.
  11. Here's the only bench I ever saw where round dogs make sense It's a photo that was posted on a woodworking forum recently:
  12. Just clamp a holding fixture in the tail vise. Back in my days doing finish carpentry I used to plane the edges of 8' stock with no problem. Excuse the mess, I work on that bench six days a week. The tail vise is so versatile I do most of my work with it. One thing that many, including most commercial bench makers, don't understand is that differential spacing of dog holes in the vise vs. in the bench top works much like a quick release vise. Just use different dogs for different lengths of stock. It works on the same principle as a vernier scale. I don't have to turn the vise handle
  13. I'd be hesitant to rely on dry honing for the reason you suggest. Dry or wet, the same amount of swarf from abraded steel, fractured abrasive, or scale will be generated. These particles when dry offer more resistance to moving than the same particles suspended in oil. The dry particles would be more prone to abrading the surface not in contact with the stone. Since we're using soil as an example, look at hilly areas like in Southern California. The soil on the hills resist movement and is stable when dry, add liquid through heavy rains and the soil starts moving downhill causing mud slides.
  14. It's not a video but one of Steve Elliot's web pages. The page is about the progression of wear profiles during use. A cutting edge wears on both faces as it dulls and understanding the wear greatly helps understanding what needs to be done to get a sharp edge. The link is here. A lot of people don't seem to see what I see in the wear profile image so I've added information in this image. The image assumes sharpening at 200 lineal feet. The blue line is where one would have to remove metal to if one was to work only on the bevel as is done when using a honing guide. The red line is the cen
  15. I really wish someone out there actually made the kind of chisels I've been looking for. These were just standard hardware store tools for generations and they were made in Sheffield when several trades were working at their peak. I'd buy from ebay but those chisels were refined to the point one can't lap out any pitting on their backs without changing the width of the chisel. I believe if people understood the kind of chisels that used to be readily available, there'd be some pressure on chisel makers to produce something worth buying. I'd be willing to pay a pretty good price for the chisels