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About collinb

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 01/06/1956

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  • Location
    - A Wisconsin ex-pat surviving Ohio.
  • Woodworking Interests
    figuring out techniques.

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  1. The just tapped in snug. The 1/2 were looser but tight enough, probably due to drill tolerances. (I have found noticable differences between forstner bits.)
  2. Probably the only thing left to do is to get a label maker and put marks on the board to identify some of the bits by for example angle and width as in dovetail, and a few others by their features as a number do not have this info stamped on the shaft.
  3. I spaced them so that they could be separated if large, on both sides.
  4. 1 3/8 x 1 3/8 for the half inch 1 3/8 x 1 for the quarter inch
  5. They're cheap, too.
  6. When I built my router table this was one of my goals. I'm going to add handles to the tray of bits to make it removable. I found the little plastic inserts At
  7. collinb

    DW735 refurb

    When I crank it up or down, about every two turns of the crank it binds up and then continues. I suspect there's some sort of contamination inside. Could be something else. But whatever it is, it needs to be disassembled. Are there any refurb or diassembly guides out there?
  8. It's the popular Rockwell/Porter-Cable jig. I retreated to resetting
  9. So ... this week I'm installing French doors for the wife. I've mortised my doors and 1 of the two jambs. But doing the second jamb I'm having a problem with the jig. I can't mirror-image the hinge position. I can't find a way for it to sit flat for the orientation I need. is the easiest solution to reset the jig for the new positions , or is there a simple way to reorient it that *I'm just too dense to see*. (In the pic is my error jamb. :-( )
  10. Many times rebuilding costs not much more, may even take less time than a half-rebuild, and will give you want you want. Becaue that seems to be the dilemma.
  11. collinb


    That's an interesting concept.
  12. collinb


    Thanks for the insights, especially about measuring/cutting incrementally instead of in advance. That should help. It's sturdy and functional. Fortunately it's just "sande" from HD so it's not expensive material. About 1.5 sheets, so $75. Won't require much to replace for mtc. Next, to stain. As to making the drawers to fit the hole, that's been the toughest thing. There's no dimensioning for the slides. It measures about 7/8" and that seemed close enough. But I guess they don't make/sell them for this purpose. ** One change I need to make is that the router sits at an angle per Freud's own holes. If I get a Freud blank then my machinist can drill so that the router is at such an angle that I won't need (and can return) the Router Raizer. The FT2000E has a nice big knob for position adjustment. The lock lever is a little out of the way in its current orientation. (I could just redrill the current plate but I don't like holes that collect stuff. I've enough problem with that on my own.)
  13. collinb


    One of the things that frustrates me to no end is that I can cut and measure and fit and assemble and for some reason it never works according to plans. Even when I don't do it ad hoc but actually create a written plan. There's something wrong in my frame of mind that keeps things from working as they ought. I tried to treat a project like I would a kit. I design and measure each part will be also noting that 3/4 plywood isn't 3/4. I even measure after cutting just to be certain it's what it should be. But I am missing something somewhere. there's an attention to detail I'm trying to practice but just can't seem to wrap my head around it. this isn't the difference between amateur and professional. I seen shoddy professional work. This is a difference between novice and artisan. I am clearly a novice. Yes I am going to straighten out the door faces. still it should serve me well for a number of years and I may spend some tinkering time on its next week.
  14. From the novice point of view ... I have a Freud Industrial thin kerf blade. Its main use is for plywood edges and slots for plastic t-molding. The rest of the time just two. One 24-tooth because sometimes you just need to rip something. One 40-tooth for a clean and fast cut. Just keep them clean and the carbide will (seems to) stay sharp longer. I've a few others on the shelf just because (they came from estate sales). A nifty 200-tooth blade. Just because it's there.