collinb

Nope. There's a lip.

It's the popular Rockwell/Porter-Cable jig. I retreated to resetting

So ... this week I'm installing French doors for the wife. I've mortised my doors and 1 of the two jambs. But doing the second jamb I'm having a problem with the jig. I can't mirror-image the hinge position. I can't find a way for it to sit flat for the orientation I need. is the easiest solution to reset the jig for the new positions , or is there a simple way to reorient it that *I'm just too dense to see*. (In the pic is my error jamb. :-( )

Many times rebuilding costs not much more, may even take less time than a half-rebuild, and will give you want you want. Becaue that seems to be the dilemma.

That's an interesting concept.

Thanks for the insights, especially about measuring/cutting incrementally instead of in advance. That should help. It's sturdy and functional. Fortunately it's just "sande" from HD so it's not expensive material. About 1.5 sheets, so $75. Won't require much to replace for mtc. Next, to stain. As to making the drawers to fit the hole, that's been the toughest thing. There's no dimensioning for the slides. It measures about 7/8" and that seemed close enough. But I guess they don't make/sell them for this purpose. ** One change I need to make is that the router sits at an angle per Freud's own holes. If I get a Freud blank then my machinist can drill so that the router is at such an angle that I won't need (and can return) the Router Raizer. The FT2000E has a nice big knob for position adjustment. The lock lever is a little out of the way in its current orientation. (I could just redrill the current plate but I don't like holes that collect stuff. I've enough problem with that on my own.)

One of the things that frustrates me to no end is that I can cut and measure and fit and assemble and for some reason it never works according to plans. Even when I don't do it ad hoc but actually create a written plan. There's something wrong in my frame of mind that keeps things from working as they ought. I tried to treat a project like I would a kit. I design and measure each part will be also noting that 3/4 plywood isn't 3/4. I even measure after cutting just to be certain it's what it should be. But I am missing something somewhere. there's an attention to detail I'm trying to practice but just can't seem to wrap my head around it. this isn't the difference between amateur and professional. I seen shoddy professional work. This is a difference between novice and artisan. I am clearly a novice. Yes I am going to straighten out the door faces. still it should serve me well for a number of years and I may spend some tinkering time on its next week.

From the novice point of view ... I have a Freud Industrial thin kerf blade. Its main use is for plywood edges and slots for plastic t-molding. The rest of the time just two. One 24-tooth because sometimes you just need to rip something. One 40-tooth for a clean and fast cut. Just keep them clean and the carbide will (seems to) stay sharp longer. I've a few others on the shelf just because (they came from estate sales). A nifty 200-tooth blade. Just because it's there.

Two things have been mentioned: Taste and versatility. The third is project type. What you build will tend to drive the versatility of your shop. If I were in your shoes I'd do something like this: The material gets is rough milling, its finish milling, then to the bench(es) for fine-tuning and assembly. But that may not suit the work you do. If it's on wheels then it can serve your needs. Just roll it out of the way when you're finished or don't need it for a given project. If the equipment is fixed then you're stuck when work changes.

Nice.

Some people like that country kitchen look. IMNSHO it depends on the house it goes in. Maybe fitting for a cottage or bungalow.

I finally got around to building a new router table since picking up a Freud RTS5000 table in the Spring. The plate that came with it is drilled for Freud so mounting it was a no-brainer. Just add Router Raizer and all is well. Sort of. The router works upright but has a problem starting when it's upside-down in the table. It gives me a short buzz like it wants to start and then goes silent. Any thoughts? Brushes? Switch? The whole motor? (I'll check the switch for continuity this evening.)

It adds a visual interest.

All open.

These will be floor-standing, to the ceiling, with a crown connecting the set. The crown will be removable should we at some time move. Also important is a check I'll do to not how co-planar the floor and ceiling are. They won't be off by much, but there's always a little to adjust for. Shims ought to do, but just in case ...