collinb

From architecture hub: "The oldest door still in use in Rome. Cast in bronze for emperor Hadrian's rebuilding, they date from about 115 AD. Each door is solid bronze seven and a half feet wide & twenty-five feet high, yet so well balanced they can be pushed or pulled open easily by one person.” Now, who’s going to be owning my projects in just 50 years?

One flaw that is easily corrected: I didn't hide the end of the backer board. It shows plainly on pic #2. I"m going to cut a cherry block and glue it in. That will add a little substance to the appearance as well.

Nope. Tape on one end and a block clamped to the other.

Your house maybe too small, or have hallways too narrow, for the typical demilune table. My wife wanted some thing for dropping keys and such so I made this. Cherry top and bottom with MDF core covered with a cherry veneer, maple legs, a small drawer in the middle for holding miscellaneous objects. It’s nothing special and not everything I wanted it to be, but it will do the trick. Attached to the wall with a keyhole and a pan head screw into the stud. I originally considered a four-leg design but this seem to work out more practical. Also, I attached the veneer using the thick white

This is exactly the situation. Add to this Leigh's adjustable collar, one on each router, and you can fine-tune the operation to perfection.

I never liked most glues for mdf. The medium tended to float and shift even while clamping it together. But this thick stuff sets up fast, the mdf doesn’t float away, and it doesn’t get sucked in like a sponge. A very suitable use for the thick stuff.

I don't think this is an error on my part, but it seem they're inverting the video periodically when showing bandsaw use. Either that or the guy has a left-handed bandsaw. Anyone else notice this?

Any time I need 45 degrees it needs to be right. I've seen decorative trim in all sorts of situations where it's tight at the outside but loose on the inside. A miter knife is the perfect solution but for those of use who don't need or have space for something so large there's the hand-made shooting board. The same thing happens with cabinet doors. My early attempts at cabinet door frames has the same issue -- tight at the outside but a gap toward the inside. It looks "good" but not "right" even at several feet. It may not be visible as a gap but often is visible as a shadow line. Once th

To say that the last six years have been interesting educationally is an understatement. Crafts take time to master and some of us will never be masters, but maybe at least competent. The two things I've found that make a project look "right" is the ends. Lots of things can be adjusted in between and sanding covers a multitude of sins. But to get the end square takes a sled some other means of guaranteeing a perfect 90 degrees. Likewise for a miter my next jig will be a pair of shooting planes. Why two? From what I can tell, the positioning of a piece, such as trim moulding, has a thi

I'm considering an alternative approach. From my darkroom days there is the sheet glue that is used to mount prints to backer boards. It's really no different than the glue on the back of iron-on edge banding though it is fairly thin. My thought is two layers of it should iron in nicely. And if I go slow around the edge the veneer (holding breath) shouldn't break.

Clearly.

The MDF is core to a small table. I glued the veneer down with Titebond III and clamped the ends. Pulled it tight. No issues when I left it to dry. But came back two hours later to this. Would using a hide glue been a better choice?

This is glue-on. But it swelled with the glue. Maybe in the future I will use adhesive-backed on a curve. Until then ...

But yet ... hmmm. it's not big enough for my books!

(It is the right season for quoting that song, right?) 1. my favorite clamps. 2. How I add a fence to the scms. First remove the tall factory fence so my clamps have a place to grab. Then ...Simple clamping plus use of the depth control.