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About collinb

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 01/06/1956

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  • Location
    alicious -- Where I may eat rhubarb, fresh curds, pickled herring, and braunschweiger any time.
  • Woodworking Interests
    remodeling and learning.

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  1. Design help for desk

    I see. The torque is controlled.
  2. Design help for desk

    Like the image above you'll need something supporting that center corner. I highly suspect there is some support coming out from beneath, from that angled center. If not, ooops. * The thing I've been learning with my display case project is to not confuse a nice design with a proper design.
  3. So last Fall i picked up a used (and quite reasonably priced) Porter Cable 14” PCB330BS. Good power. Decently constructed. But it needs new tires. Are there any (a) highly recommended brands or (b) any ones to definitely avoid? ** I'm giving some consideration to the Jet riser. Not a lot, yet, but some. Might be useful as this saw does have a hefty motor. ** The one other thing I'd like to change on it is the table. That 5/8" T miter slot & sloppy miter that came with it -- they have to go. Probably this summer. Thoughts?
  4. My crappy little shop

    There are other names for Craftsman-branded items which are even less generous. :-)
  5. Old Blade Disposal

    We also have scrappers going through our neighborhood on trash eve. But fewer this past year because steel is soooo low. ** That said, I have two waste baskets in my garage where I put (1) steel and (2) aluminum. When full enough I bring them to work (automatic transmission recycler & hard parts supplier) for a few $$ for a free lunch.
  6. My crappy little shop

    I have the Ridgid & have the same thoughts. Tried to joint some 6' piece this week. Tough. Some had to first go through the planer in a sled arrangement, others began on the table-saw. Then to the jointer. But either way it probably took the same amount of time as if all were done on the jointer since with the table saw it is easier to take off a larger swath.
  7. Help me understand

    Last year I did something similar (and crudely) and subsequently abandoned it, though may have to resurrect it in a proper fashion. That is, a 6' long board with a 3/4" track for the miter slot. I could go with 12" W x 6' L to get most all jobs done. ** Back to the op: I think the fence position may be the big issue. I cut another strip off using the bandsaw and there were no issues with bending.
  8. Help me understand

    I've been cutting for 25% waste and that seems to cover most cases. It seems some pieces of wood just don't want to cooperate. :-( This one stood out as such a problem I thought showing it might provide some insight. It's hard maple. It did get stiff. I think with the old Craftsman table saw I had, without a riving knife, it *would* have been a problem. ** I took what was left for a second rip but this time went to the bandsaw. Guess what? No bend! It could be that the wood changed in those two extra inches. Or it could be something else. That's why I'm going to check the heel adjustment this evening.
  9. Help me understand

    I picked up a piece of hard maple at WoodWerks the other day. Sat in the garage a couple of days before getting to it this evening. The change in humidity had added a bit of a bow at one point but not so much I couldn't work with it. Before I took it home they offered to straighten one edge for me. They've got this neat saw with a laser guide and guide lugs at feed end. Just align the board to the laser and feed it in.along the lugs and it cuts a nice straight edge. No futzing with a fence or jointer. So I take this board and attempt to cut 2 inches off that straight side. And what happens? The piece I cut off ends up with a bow in it! Tale saw heel adjustment, perhaps?
  10. An old tool, still going...

    cut, cut, cut, cut, cut, break blade, new blade, cut, cut, cut, cut
  11. Hard maple in a 1.5hp saw with a low blade angle.A little dullness wouldn't surprise me but caked-on resins is enough to do this. I know the low angle is safer -- less chance for the blade to pick up and throw a piece. But a high angle doesn't do this so much. The cut is quicker and shorter. (At least that's my perception.)
  12. Garage shop process

    I used to put things sideways but how have them for vertical pull-out. That seems to work best. My next solution is going to be table space. Right now I lay out a door over two workmates but I need something more practical.
  13. I read some mixed reports on Simple Green. Works well for some, not well for others -- probably media-dependent. And since the whole solution was on sale I didn't have to spend any time digging up stuff. That burn was actually from a 24T blade, but the Freud was burning, too. I just wanted to show the results of poor hygiene, though I will admit to being just a bit dishonest as a matter of degree. The guy at WoodWerks who recommended it said that he just leaves it filled on the shelf and has had it there for ... several years. Just drop in a blade in the evening and pull it out the next day and brush it off. As long as the lid locks tight the evap is under control. If there is a little, just add water.
  14. Garage shop process

    At this point my garage shop has worked. With everything on wheels there's no problem when it comes to space. What I'm running into now is the efficiency question: How to arrange things so that workflow will allow me efficient access to each machine. That ... And I'm seeing how a full product workflow is developed. There are times when I might want to mill everything up front and times when I want to do it in stages -- depending on the materials and project. The traditional IT approaches to workflow don't seem to fit.
  15. And this is your wood on a saw blade on resin. Any questions? (Cleaning kits are on sale for $19.99 at Rockler. (Fortunately I had I left enough slack that this got taken off with the jointer or planer. Had I not ... what a waste.