collinb

Had some time tonight so In thought I would tune up both and do the comparison. The bottom line is that my preference depends upon how it is used. The tests: I used both to joint an edge and to smooth a piece. The Stanley has a smaller knob that is easy we to grip. The tote is slightly closer to the center so it is easier to push. But when I stand to the side I find the Sargent easier to swipe across. When it comes to user preference that would depend on one's personal dexterity. I like the Stanley for most uses and that's enough. But I can see a person with larger hands preferring the Sargent.

That's a little thing with a 1" port. https://www.amazon.com/Generation-Turbocharged-Collector-Separator-Industrial/dp/B07B4XSLK6/ A slightly larger one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bagless-Cyclone-Dust-Collector-woodworking-Vacuum-Cleaner-Filter-free-shipping/153247469769 It appears that the trash can approach may be my best bet.

I picked up a dust collector blower cheap at an auction. Step 2 is to add a cyclone to it. But the little Dust Deputy seems too small for a 1HP blower. Other than building is there another option besides the Super Dust Deputy, something under $100? I'll be building a frame on my cart for, yes, rolling it around.

The #8 was broken & epoxied. Still it's good as a user. Corrugated bottom. Both the #8 and the #6 seem to be Type 9, fwiw.

Picked up a decent looking Bailey No. 6 at an auction yesterday for $20. Needs the standard TLC. Next step is to compare it in use to my similarly-sized Sargent to see which I prefer. But at first touch I like the shape of the Sargent tote better, but the positioning of the Bailey handle. So it's going to boil down to functionality. Probably won't get to it until Spring. But it can remain in the garage for the duration. Also two weeks ago got corroded Pexto & Baily #8 set at a downsizing sale for $5 & $15 respectively. Real users. Time for some of that rust remover stuff.

Maybe you're like me. Cheap, err thrifty. But sometimes too much so. Don't under-spend. Get at least medium-grade equipment and you'll always be happy with it. ** $900 for a jointer, a planer, and a bandsaw. Obviously it's going to have to be used equipment. A used 14" bandsaw -- $400 or less. Porter-Cable & Delta both come in this price class regular on a basis (around here). Or a used 10" bandsaw -- $200. For making stuff for around the house a 10" might do the trick. Just avoid the need to resaw thick pieces and you'll be ok. Plus a 10" is a lot more versatile for cutting curves. A used planer -- I see the Delta 22-540 like I started with for about $250 or less. They do a decent job. They're 2-blade so you'll have to sand afterwards. Finally the jointer. A used 6" for $300 isn't impossible to find if you're a patient shopper. Again, for stuff around the house you many not need to "face joint" anything. In that case look around for a little 4" jointer. If you're just jointing the short edge of a piece there's no reason to get a big unit. You can get one of those later as the need arises. They take up very little space. I see them at summer yard and estate sales for $20 to $50 -- because nobody wants the any more. But I think for the tiny shop they might have some minimalist application. With any inexpensive jointer you'll still have that "washboard" edge just like a 2-blade planer. If the edge will show then you'll need to sand it. There is one more alternative for edge jointing -- the manual route. If you're just jointing a few edges you might consider setting up a good way to clamp the wood down and doing it by hand with a #6, #7, or #8 plane. A #6 is good enough for pieces up to about 4' and they take up little space. Plus they're an in-between size plane that nobody wants so they go pretty cheap these days. One of these planes would fall into the $40 to $150 price range. They're still in your arena. (I don't hand joint very often at all. But there are times when it's faster to clamp the board in and grab the plane than rolling out the jointer, plug it in and set/verify everything just to do one board.) Just a week ago I got a #8 in user condition for $15. Needs a little TLC but well worth the price. (IOW, just be a patient shopper.) $900 isn't difficult but you can't just go out and pick it up. It may take 6 months of Craigslist shopping to find what you need.

A 50A subpanel with a single breaker was put in for the dryer. Looks like I would be well off to just swap it for a bigger unit with more breakers. No need to run extra wire.

https://columbus.craigslist.org/gms/d/palmyra-farm-estate-sale/6742980100.html Nothing I need, but if you're in the area ...

I'd use two different diameter hole cutters with the second offset. The half-moon that remains can be cut in half for two pieces. Then sand down the ends.

Tx, all. I am getting an energy audit soon. The house is a 1967 build so the builder's grade insulation definitely needs upgraded. Will also do the garage. The garage door is the original wood unit. I suspect a newer insulated door will be much better.

I'm wondering ... What's a reasonable way to keep my garage above freezing this winter? Doesn't have to be by a long way. I don't expect 60 degrees. But I would like to keep my stains, glue, etc., from freezing. In past years I took these things into the house for the duration. But I'm thinking something else might be in order. If not this year maybe next year.

I'll have to give that issue attention. This is going to take some research to be certain that I do it right.

This seems to hit at a design shortcoming of these units. The material just isn't leaving as it ought. I'm going to better seal my edges as proposed earlier and see if that resolves the issue. Still considering how to best accomplish the airflow goal. (But I will still check it regularly to see that it's a valid long-term fix.)

Yes. The little DD.

It happened twice. And it's definitely a reason to get that extra wiring done in the Spring. Not in the garage. I run to the front porch rather than into the house. Don't want the dust inside.