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Everything posted by collinb

  1. Tx. I think I will grind it down for sharpening.
  2. I picked up an old Bailey 4 1/2 a few weeks ago. Started the restoration process. Looking at the blade, the edge is pretty rough. But it can be ground down. It’s a thick one. But I can’t figure out the brand.
  3. Thanks. Being a patient shopper, those older saws can be gotten at a reasonable price since everyone seems, for some reason, to want batteries. Can't for the life of me figure out why. And the 1/4" steel stock ... if you know anyone at a scrap yard you could probably also score some for $0.00. Right after building it, it saved me about 30 minuted cutting metal for the popup camper enhancement.
  4. Earlier I moved the end bench (2000 Bayside Elite) to the side to give us more walking space the length of the pop up. By doing that we also gained better access to astorage area beside the fridge. In some campers that space might be a cassette commode. In ours it’s a hole. (A useless, clutter-collecting black hole.) Now that it is accessible we wanted to make the most of it. We used a “camping box” for 30+ years that the wife’s folks had gotten in the mid 60s but the space and size were getting old. That hole gave us the opportunity to eliminate the big box for one that will drop in. 16x16x21. Set the shelves to the height needed by your camping experience. It just drops in. The dowel approach was used to air movement. I also modified the lid. The hinge is gone in favor of a lip and slot along with a bumper on the front to keep it from sliding off. Parting with the hinge allowed an extra inch of depth. All that remains is to put a block on the floor so that it doesn’t rub the rear light wires in the bottom of the hole.
  5. Finally got around to building it. The 1/4” stock holds the saw solidly. I am going to tie down the switch (maybe with some twine) and use my foot switch for on/off. Have one small countersink to redo, but all is well.
  6. Every so often I need to cut a piece of metal for a bracket or some such. And this weekend I got a bargain on a metal-cutting bandsaw. (Yes, it's hefty. It's probably more than I need.) I'd like to take it off the current base and mount it vertical. So far I've not found a projects suitable for this size of saw. Anyone seen something suitable? (I've also considered selling this one and getting a small unit that might work as a vertical benchtop unit.)
  7. Got in the parts from Grizzly yesterday. Then set about to add sacrificial pieces. Should serve me well the rest of my woodworking life.
  8. I found Grizzly has the parts. And the gas springs look to be no more than on Amazon. Plus, one shipping source cuts costs. Tx. Plus, I couldn't tell if those 5.xx" that extend to 7.xx" were really the right specs.
  9. It's a nice unit. Got it a few weeks ago. But as I do so often the excitement of a nice piece of hardware distracted me from investigating parts availability. Looking for three things. (1) It only has one of the three fence rods. Would like to get the other two. (2) The easiest thing will probably be one of those indexing locking knobs for locking the depth limit rod in place. It currently has a hex head bolt in that position. (3) A 5-inch gas spring. For this I'm going to check out some alternative automotive & other supply sources. Any thoughts?
  10. collinb

    Ooo! Ooo!

    At least one person has a sense of humor though their commercials are rather stupid. ;-)
  11. collinb

    Ooo! Ooo!

    Who just gives away wood?
  12. From architecture hub: "The oldest door still in use in Rome. Cast in bronze for emperor Hadrian's rebuilding, they date from about 115 AD. Each door is solid bronze seven and a half feet wide & twenty-five feet high, yet so well balanced they can be pushed or pulled open easily by one person.” Now, who’s going to be owning my projects in just 50 years?
  13. One flaw that is easily corrected: I didn't hide the end of the backer board. It shows plainly on pic #2. I"m going to cut a cherry block and glue it in. That will add a little substance to the appearance as well.
  14. Nope. Tape on one end and a block clamped to the other.
  15. Your house maybe too small, or have hallways too narrow, for the typical demilune table. My wife wanted some thing for dropping keys and such so I made this. Cherry top and bottom with MDF core covered with a cherry veneer, maple legs, a small drawer in the middle for holding miscellaneous objects. It’s nothing special and not everything I wanted it to be, but it will do the trick. Attached to the wall with a keyhole and a pan head screw into the stud. I originally considered a four-leg design but this seem to work out more practical. Also, I attached the veneer using the thick white glue mentioned earlier. It does not soak through and warp the veneer so it’s practical for small pieces.
  16. This is exactly the situation. Add to this Leigh's adjustable collar, one on each router, and you can fine-tune the operation to perfection.
  17. I never liked most glues for mdf. The medium tended to float and shift even while clamping it together. But this thick stuff sets up fast, the mdf doesn’t float away, and it doesn’t get sucked in like a sponge. A very suitable use for the thick stuff.
  18. I don't think this is an error on my part, but it seem they're inverting the video periodically when showing bandsaw use. Either that or the guy has a left-handed bandsaw. Anyone else notice this?
  19. Any time I need 45 degrees it needs to be right. I've seen decorative trim in all sorts of situations where it's tight at the outside but loose on the inside. A miter knife is the perfect solution but for those of use who don't need or have space for something so large there's the hand-made shooting board. The same thing happens with cabinet doors. My early attempts at cabinet door frames has the same issue -- tight at the outside but a gap toward the inside. It looks "good" but not "right" even at several feet. It may not be visible as a gap but often is visible as a shadow line. Once the sled was built the problem disappeared. My saw slot miter was just not enough. This is not to be a perfectionist. One might always do better. And wood isn't such a fine material that absolute perfection can be reached. But "right" is attainable. A nice tight joint. wysiwyg.
  20. To say that the last six years have been interesting educationally is an understatement. Crafts take time to master and some of us will never be masters, but maybe at least competent. The two things I've found that make a project look "right" is the ends. Lots of things can be adjusted in between and sanding covers a multitude of sins. But to get the end square takes a sled some other means of guaranteeing a perfect 90 degrees. Likewise for a miter my next jig will be a pair of shooting planes. Why two? From what I can tell, the positioning of a piece, such as trim moulding, has a thick side and a thin side. Sliding from thick to thin might lead to some edge tear-out. So two (or maybe a larger one that's double-sided?) it is. If we treat woodworking like a craft where one might make a Very Good Living then perhaps we might mentor younger folks to the craft. There's plenty of good-paying work out there, it seems, and it doesn't require a college degree. (Teach people to spend their evenings reading instead of playing on tech gadgets.) Right now I have but one customer and he's got more work for me than I have time for (since I still have a regular job). Thus it is a long-term relationship, and a good one.
  21. I'm considering an alternative approach. From my darkroom days there is the sheet glue that is used to mount prints to backer boards. It's really no different than the glue on the back of iron-on edge banding though it is fairly thin. My thought is two layers of it should iron in nicely. And if I go slow around the edge the veneer (holding breath) shouldn't break.
  22. The MDF is core to a small table. I glued the veneer down with Titebond III and clamped the ends. Pulled it tight. No issues when I left it to dry. But came back two hours later to this. Would using a hide glue been a better choice?
  23. This is glue-on. But it swelled with the glue. Maybe in the future I will use adhesive-backed on a curve. Until then ...
  24. But yet ... hmmm. it's not big enough for my books!