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About jgt1942

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Oak Island, NC USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    general woodworking and woodturning

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  1. For the past several days I've made very little progress because I could not understand what happened to the seat back joints. Initially I could not understand why the red arrow areas where so large and why they were not equal. I went in huge circles trying to determine what the heck I did wrong. Finally I notice that the rabbit joints (the green arrow areas) were NOT 0.25" nor where they equal. I spent a few more days trying to determine what did I do wrong. Tossing and turning in bed one night it hit me ..... DUH ...... I had cut the rabbits after I had glued up the seat. Perhaps
  2. Not only the head rest, which is a series of board similar to the seat where he runs the grain up/down (six blocks from 4 to 5 inches wide (4” for a small chair and ~4 & 3/4” for a large) by seven to eight inches long (depending on what your band saw will cut). This provides a contiguous width of 24 to 30 inches which is sufficient width for most chairs.) Also, his spindles are flexible I think he makes all of his seat flat rather than rounded. I personally like the rounded look. Marc Spagnuolo always does a great job. I failed to look at his build and did no
  3. Ok I think I've determine how to avoid the mistakes I made, I'm assuming that I did and Scott's instructions could be improved. I may be overly anel and this is not really necessary. I will document the procedure if I use the current plans for the real build. The Hal Taylor plans should be here today or tomorrow, they are super detail but still may have somethings that confuse me. OH well, sometimes life is confusing and sometimes it is fun trying to discover how to correct your mistakes.
  4. After reading your post I measured using my template where I had accidently cut the notches out. Now that I encountered this issue I can make a couple of reference lines on the template and use them to ensure I have the placement of the template on future seats positioned correctly. I will just add a piece of wood to the inside portion of the leg and joint pad area between 1/4" and 1/3". Then I can easily trim away any extra. Or just flush the leg to the joint, measure the gap for the raggit, that will determine how much wood I need to add (it should be 1/4"). I did notice in Scotts
  5. I did not scale the 1/4" for the rabbit just because I did not have a bearing that would produce that size. When I cut my seat template to the 71% scale I did cut the notch out on the template, this was a goof on my part but I just checked it against the leg and I think the joint would be a very close fit. When Scott discusses the back joint I think that it might be just luck when it comes out correctly. He uses the outer edge of boards 1 & 5 as measurement reference points. He says something similar to this: Now let’s layout the position of the back leg. From t
  6. I've gone through all of the measurements, including the scale, a few times and so far I have not found where I goofed. Possibly one of the issues is the way Scott makes his measurements and the way my mind works or does not work. I'm going to cut a new board for board 5 of the seat, as you face the seat from the front this would be the right-most board, and follow Scotts' directions and ensure I did the scale reduction correct. Scott starts with 2" thick boards, at 71% this would be 1.42" He then cuts all stock to rough measurements (I added an extra inch) He then planes all t
  7. OK I've hit a small snag with my build. I just finished the back legs and clamped it in place. I have NOT cut the key section in the leg that will fit into the seat. It seems that the leg should be about 1/4" thicker on two sides. Obviously I can make another leg easy enough or just glue some wood in that area or customize the edge of the seat in that area so it will be flush with the leg. GEE decisions, decisions!! Possibly I made a mistake when I rescaled to 71% of original size. Looking at the first image below, if I cut the key in the current leg, it will slide forward 1/4" and to th
  8. Current plan is to finish the build. I'm thinking of making the rockers out of Oak from pallets. If it turns out good then one of the girls can have it or I will give it to our local library or a hospital where they have a kids section.
  9. Yes I am! When I started the build I watched the DVD about the portion of the build I was doing. Sometimes I had to watch a section numerous times to get everything or some fine detail that I missed. I take screen with SnagIt and then add my notes, everything is in a Word document (I'm a PC user). Currently I'm on page 24 of my build and I just made it to the back legs. Scott builds the chair a bit differently with respect to the sequence of things. First is board selection, then making the templates, then cuts all the boards to rough length, then mrks the boards with the templates (I reduced
  10. Part of my problem with splay of the legs I kept thinking they splayed out but the splay in. Now it makes a lot more sense! I have made progress but it has been super slow. I've watch and rewatch Scott's video (in section) numerous times. As a newbie to the build sometimes I either miss something critical or he seems to skip over it thus I will rewatch some sections of the video numerous times and make my notes. Also the scaling the chair down to 71% has presented some issue which are mostly my fault. Sometimes I'm accidently referencing the full scale drawing when I should be refere
  11. Bmac ref your Oct 22 post "Cut the back notches for the rear leg joints. A few thoughts here, first the size of the notch is only somewhat important. I try to be dead on but as you'll see with assembly there is extra seat here extending out past the rear leg. So if you cut the notch at 2 15/16ths" instead of 3", you'll be fine. The real big deal is the fact that this notch needs to be dead on square, I mean dead on. " I noticed that Hal Taylor does square cuts, I really like how he does the back slats. Scott Morrison cuts a negative and positive 5 degree cut on the back joint on the
  12. OK I finally realized that the drawing for the "plans" are not exact and are for reference, they are close but not exact. I'm following Scott Morrison's DVD and plans. This and the issue I introduced was driving me nuts (short drive) I will be making two chairs for very young girls (under the age of 3) thus I needed to reduce the scale. I determined that 75% of original would be a good size so I reduced the plans to 75% or so I thought, it's an old age thing. So when following Scott's video my 75% measurements were not coming out as I expected. When I disco vered the error and adjusted the mea
  13. LOL when you get older you ask the question about more rooms, like the bathroom or bedroom or kitchen.....
  14. I've done this on a few things but often I'm going to turn something that I'm gluing up and anytype of metal does present a problem. Thus I seldom use the nail idea and most often forget to use it when I can. Old age has made me forgetful. Every walk in to a room and you ask yourself, "Why did I come into this room"? The nail idea would work for the seat alignment, sure is a LOT easier than the domino or dowels. When grinding out the seat if you hit a domino or dowel you just won the big goof badge, if you hit the nail it is time to stop grinding and most likely you should still get the b
  15. I personally think that either using dowels or dominos best helps with the alignment and holds the boards in place when you apply the clamps for the glue to set-up. In the past when I glued boards without anything to hold them in place it was super difficult to keep them aligned when the clamps were applied. When I started using the DF500 the first thing I noticed is that the boards were perfectly aligned. Now that I've glued up the seat (I should have waited and done this after doing some other steps first) I realize I could have used the side-stop extension on the front dominos and achi