tedfmcm

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About tedfmcm

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Hartford, Connecticut
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobbyist

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  1. under the left wing? that's an intriguing idea...
  2. realized it didn't go through on the original post...should be there now but let me know if the interwebs aren't cooperating.
  3. Hey all, nearing the end of my big tool purchases and have a question on layout. Been using the below for about 2 years now and it's worked ok, but wanted to get peoples thoughts on the layout, particularly since i plan to add a lathe and router table to my arsenal soon. Overall it's 26 x 11 foot shop in the basement and most of the tools are on wheels. I eventually want to run ducting for the dust collector but don't mind wheeling it around for now. I dont have a dedicated miter station in the plan, but would be ok moving that onto the outfeed table if it saved floor space...plan to do that with my spindle sander already. Any thoughts? - Thanks, Ted
  4. I recently built one this year...I really wanted a slim profile so didn't Utilize the angled plane design. I got the idea for the door cleats system from the BearKat guy who built an awesome cabinet and posted it to the forum here.
  5. (duh, just read your original post and saw you made the legs wider)..:) How did you handle the front rail (assuming you installed the crisscross)? I'm about to start on the base in my build and am not crazy about making a thick rail since i don't plan on using the breakdown hardware and was curious how you altered the 'normal' size front rail (looks to be the original thin variety). Thanks, Ted
  6. Could also make a baffle/muffler box outdoors? something like this:
  7. Not to do this again: Create the units slightly undersized for the space, shim and attach them to the structure/walls level/plumb and scribe the piece of trim that fits the surround. Fix this now: Either shim the hinge as the previous poster suggested, or plane just the edges of the doors to make them 'fit'...repainting would only be the edges if done carefully.
  8. Not to high-jack the thread, but i'm also considering the router table purchase soon. I profess that I haven't done too much research, but in order to save floor space in my small 11 x 26 shop, i was thinking about mounting the router table on some sort of structural hinges beneath the overhang on my outfeed table. As a result, it would swing 90 degrees under the table when not in use (router table plane would be vertical to the floor), and employ folding table legs of some kind to support it when in operation. Anyone see/use a similar setup or see a problem with storing the router/lift in an 'off vertical' position? I can draw a picture if my words are less than descriptive. Thanks - Ted
  9. +1...you really need both for an efficient workflow. However, you can get buy with just a planer by roughly hand flattening boards or using a sled on the planer...i did this for a couple months and it was very much less than ideal. That said, a serviceable jointer is much more than a planer, (e.g. Dewalt 735).
  10. I ran into something similar before the holiday's at acmetool... Was buying a dewalt drill for my father, they had a dewalt discount and a site wide, never specified they could not be combined. I was pretty ticked and after some time with customer service they did honor the combined amount. You'd think we've come far enough on internet commerce places wouldn't try that game and not spell out the exclusions (they didn't anywhere on their site, trust me, i looked)...
  11. Yes, i intend to use it for an eventual roubo build this year, as well as the occasional breadboard end...figured what the heck. agree on the expediency of the shipping...i ordered tuesday morning and got them wednesday afternoon! Maine and Connecticut aren't too far away but still darn impressive.
  12. Well the 1 inch chisel is backordererd but got the rest...one shipment each from LV and LN today...?
  13. Thanks everyone, this confirmed my thinking - looks like I'm placing an order at LN today. Yes, I would like all my chisels to match, so while a good and practical idea, I can't do the one of each haha. I finally upgraded my sharpening stones to Shapton ceramics...and holy cow, what a difference. I didn't know what I was missing out on.
  14. Ok, so hopefully this hasn't been hashed out but I couldn't find anything. Im a hobbyist woodworker with a growing compilation of tools (hand and power) and decided it's time to upgrade to the last set of bench chisels I will buy (currently footprint chisels). Im thinking either the LN or the veritas pmv11 sets. Obviously the veritas a bit more expensive, but much closer given the exchange rate and the LN design is supposedly designed to last longer. I don't want to start a full blown A2 vs pmv11 debate as it seems it's pretty close if you sharpen regularly (unless someone have experience), but anything else I should consider when choosing between the two? I've read the LN handles might fit better for some? I have a LN fishtail chisel and I enjoy it (also all LN for my hand planes). Thanks! Ted
  15. tedfmcm

    Table top tear out

    What about finding a timbermate product that closely matches the stained wood? Put that filler in, dab some shellac to prevent the stain from penetrating the filler, and then you're good to go. I did this on a maple top i had, albeit only a light shellac dye to pop the grain, but it preventing the stain from penetrating the filler.