Brendon_t

Agreed, plus the fear of hydrolock with adhesives. I'd rather have some extra depth in the mortise and seat against the shoulder.

We've got the same spread. At 6'1, my bench is at 36. I made my shop stool the right height for me to sit and work comfortably, but I would much prefer to stand and work.

I love Shannon's J bench. Would love to have a hybrid between it, and Rick's bench top bench. I'm fairly tall and build my bench tall but still hate bending over all the time for detail work.

Agreed above. Teak finishes ok, just some prep first. I wipe down with acetone before gluing and use ws epoxy. The final uses will determine appropriate finish so if you give some more info, you could get not pointed responses. What is it, how's it used, where will it live?

Hmm.. seems a bit quick on the trigger. Not everyone regards bc as a great value. They also have very decent competition in the vise world. What's wrong with discussing it?

He'd have doubled it if you dropped my name : ) That price is insane for Maple. Hard 8/4 clear boards are 3.16 here, and everything expensive in California

If you can accomplish the Same task with less steps, more power to you. Removing the shoulders does weaken the joint. A lot or a little, it isn't the same. Personally, I would rather use a tried and tried and tried and tested method, over saving 2 or 20 minutes.

Those look pretty good for #1. If you follow BearKat on IG, he just posted a 180 dovetail oops. It happens

Soo... Why are we trying to reinvent a joint instead of just learning to (assumption) / cutting a time tested mortise and tenon? It's a work bench but you keep saying you are making choices on what's Less work.. why build a workbench if you don't want to work? Buying a pre engineered and assembled bench is way less work. Harbor freight special, no glue, metal hardware like you intend. Seriously, with no real joinery and using bolts to assemble . I'd bet many could slap the bench shown together faster than it took to make the SketchUp rendering.

Those things are beautiful and massive.

Welcome. There's a great guy @shaneymack that also is in the finish homes world from around you.

I used to bring the blade up a little over the work piece but noticed that I didn't like the upward pressure from the blade so I started raising to about the gullet depth.

Here was my down and dirty solution. Taped all openings, zci, and made a ply adapter to cover the chute with a hose Port adapter. I also glued some lexan I had laying around into a better funnel inside. This works well enough. I'm not running a monster DC. 1.75hp. I disagree with Tom on the"if you're not going to get it all, why bother". If I can get 50%, that's half going into my lungs and around the shop. May not be good enough for some, but good enough for me.

Atta way to do it. I'm back mostly making long grain boards because end grain are so much more pita.

Is there any recess in the back that you could install a French cleat to? That plus strapped should be solid