Brendon_t

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Everything posted by Brendon_t

  1. I know I'm loonie but couldn't wrap my brain around it
  2. In what way would end grain be even remotely easier? You could get that board from a single glue up. End grain you'll need at least 2 and the second being much more intensive.
  3. Blah blah blah, you're old and can't see good. Why every not? It polishes up beautifully.
  4. I can send you some Ebony. Edit: replied too early .... Mick's got you!
  5. That's a great saw neighbor. I'm in Simi Valley. I'm a huge fan of cast iron extension wings like that.
  6. Welcome to the forum. Where in Cali are you located? A good place to start tool shopping is with the end result. What you plan to build can help with the decision of the right tool. I like the euro slider idea, saw stops also have a great following. 5hp is a big motor and honestly, I don't think hobbyists need them. I have a Delta unisaw 3hp baldor motor and I cannot bog it down with a thick blade and fast feed. If you're pushing very hard wood through often, a sharp and clean blade will do you great
  7. Wood isn't finish ready off the saw, epoxy isn't furniture ready from the pour unless you're pouring in a clean room, with heated resin on a vibrating table.
  8. Take it with a grain of salt please. There are some literal morons producing how to's on YouTube.
  9. I agree with the handle placement. Also solid on the reduced cutters. I don't need a finish ready surface but I would consider dropping money like that on a spiral head if I worked with a lot of figured and nasty grain. There has to be a decrease in how it handles the tasks you want those carbide inserts for.
  10. The joints are all just bridle joints. Most woods in my opinion would be strong enough. I'm always partial to hardwoods and honestly, the base will make or break the whole piece. IMHO, if you're putting it on Douglas fir legs, it's broken. Not for the structural integrity, but the athletic. Either dark tones and straight grain or a contrasting wood like red jatoba or even carefully color matched Maple. The base you linked for inspiration is beautiful and should be relatively easy to execute given proper care is given to setup of the cuts in a few critical cuts.
  11. I think the red heughs of jatoba would be fantastic under there.
  12. I could hang out with Steve, but no Chad's.
  13. Now that makes much much more sense to me.
  14. Did your set not come with a few flat metal triangles with holes in them? I've owned 3 sets. All had them to triangulate the corner. But seriously, finish putting it together.. we don't dovetail a drawer then test for racking before the bottom has been fit. Of course it's not solid yet, the stiffening aspect hasn't been installed yet! Take the design to completion and make sure there's an issue before trying to fix an issue the designers very likely took care of, as it's a kids toy...
  15. It looks like there is more to assemble being the slide from nowhere, I would have it totally put together and check it out. Chances are it was designed right, just gotta finish. It's very easy to strengthen later like coop said above.
  16. Shane, could you screenshot you cut/ glue up sheet from cb ? I'd like to have that in my file. I've got dozens stored so far.
  17. Does it tear clean? That's always my #1 gripe with duct tape
  18. Correct! If in the next while you realize you want it filled, you could have it done in a weekend easily! I'm thinking that if I every flatten my bench again, I will probably fill the pores. Ash pores aren't quite as bad as oak but still, there is a lot of grime that get caught in there. May even try a black fill. Turn it into a bumblebee bench!
  19. Oh come on. I'm sure you could add to the overall discussion, Or hilarity. Dealers choice.
  20. I was expecting Gorilla Glue #4 discussion. I was wrong.
  21. Agreed, though depends on the players, and sometimes, the acrimony is really Really entertaining ..
  22. Good points. It sounds to me that we've figured out that there really isn't a superior way. What is important to Ross and Gdub may not be as important to Nuts and I. Comes down to preference and what's important to you. I appreciate the discussion even though nobody got super pissed : )
  23. Honestly, I about went with scarf joined shorts when I about ran out of material. I'd have zero issue.
  24. I'm not trying to start crap or call anyone out. I just can't figure out why people would recommend more glue ups, more milling, more room for error and use thinner lumber when Both are presumably equally dry, both being face glued giving edge grain show faces. I've seen many threads over the years when someone asks about gluing together 845, 4/4 boards for a top and everyone tells them to get thicker lumber. Now, someone has the option and is told to go thin and I haven't heard a reason that isn't the same with both.. If the general idea is that the 3.5" thick dressed lumber will move substantially More, than 1.5" in a glue up, enough to warp your whole thing, while also acknowledging that most people will flatten their bench regardless of thickness of laminations, And knowing it's so little of an issue that some leave it....., I can't get on board. I'm confused honestly and trying to follow the train of thought.