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Posts posted by Brendon_t

  1. 18 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    I'd go with end grain. For no particular reason, other than its less work. In fact, a solid plank is even better.

    In what way would end grain be even remotely easier? 

    You could get that board from a single glue up. End grain you'll need at least 2 and the second being much more intensive.

  2. On 6/1/2019 at 9:10 PM, K Cooper said:

    It’s the Maloof low back chair and instructions and videos from both Marc and Charles Brock use a stepped drill bit for the screws that is a bit off from conventional dowels. Fortunately for them and unfortunately for me, they used walnut with ebony plugs and I am using cherry and don’t really want the dark contrast that end grain provides. I finally got in touch with my turner friend that has been out of town and he said, no way, so end grain it will be! 

    I can send you some Ebony.


    Edit: replied too early .... Mick's got you!

  3. Welcome to the forum. Where in Cali are you located?

    A good place to start tool shopping is with the end result. What you plan to build can help with the decision of the right tool.

    I like the euro slider idea, saw stops also have a great following. 5hp is a big motor and honestly, I don't think hobbyists need them. I have a Delta unisaw 3hp baldor motor and I cannot bog it down with a thick blade and fast feed. If you're pushing very hard wood through often, a sharp and clean blade will do you great 

    • Like 2
  4. 3 hours ago, Mark J said:

    I'm kind of currious why the epoxy needs polishing?  I thought it would be pretty smooth when poured.  Did it get scratched during other parts of the construction?

    Wood isn't finish ready off the saw, epoxy isn't furniture ready from the pour unless you're pouring in a clean room, with heated resin on a vibrating table.

    • Thanks 1
  5. I agree with the handle placement.  Also solid on the reduced cutters. I don't need a finish ready surface but I would consider dropping money like that on a spiral head if I worked with a lot of figured and nasty grain. There has to be a decrease in how it handles the tasks you want those carbide inserts for. 

  6. 1 minute ago, ask-anton said:

    I'm not sure if I worded this correctly, I'm not trying to id the wood. The slab is Guanacaste; table legs is an example of the design I'm planing on making, and I was wondering which woods would be reliable in this frame design. 

     The joints are all just bridle joints. Most woods in my opinion would be strong enough. I'm always partial to hardwoods and honestly, the base will make or break the whole piece. IMHO, if you're putting it on Douglas fir legs, it's broken. Not for the structural integrity, but the athletic.

    Either dark tones and straight grain or a contrasting wood like red jatoba or even carefully color matched Maple. The base you linked for inspiration is beautiful and should be relatively easy to execute given proper care is given to setup of the cuts in a few critical cuts.

    • Like 1
  7. 9 hours ago, Builder said:

    It's not a pre-made kit, but I have been looking at those metal brackets you're talking about. The original plan wasn't to have any knee bracing with how the beam is set in the a frame fulcrum -- I'm not sure there are long enough metal plates available to stretch from beam to leg how I have it. That said, you make an excellent point about putting it all together before worrying about issues that might not exist after a few steps are completed

    Now that makes much much more sense to me.

    • Like 1
  8. Did your set not come with a few flat metal triangles with holes in them? 

    I've owned 3 sets. All had them to triangulate the corner. 

    But seriously, finish putting it together.. we don't dovetail a drawer then test for racking before the bottom has been fit. Of course it's not solid yet, the stiffening aspect hasn't been installed yet!  Take the design to completion and make sure there's an issue before trying to fix an issue the designers very likely took care of, as it's a kids toy...

    • Like 1
  9. On 4/20/2019 at 8:47 PM, bleedinblue said:


    I thought about filling the pores of the top, and I suppose theres no reason I can't do so at some point.

    Correct! If in the next while you realize you want it filled, you could have it done in a weekend easily! I'm thinking that if I every flatten my bench again, I will probably fill the pores. Ash pores aren't quite as bad as oak but still, there is a lot of grime that get caught in there.

    May even try a black fill. Turn it into a bumblebee bench!

  10. 16 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    So now that we're all worked up.... :D. What is the consensus on shorts. If some of the lamination in the top are 2 shorter boards ended together is that bad? In my mind i can't see how it would make a difference especially if they have a floating tenon or 2 between them.

    I'm asking for a friend that may or may not have a lot of 8/4 cherry shorts they don't know what to do with ;).

    Honestly, I about went with scarf joined shorts when I about ran out of material.  I'd have zero issue.

    • Like 1
  11. 36 minutes ago, drzaius said:

    Not at all. To each their own. I just wanted to make clear my rationale & to inform others of the implications of the lumber choices made. I know sometimes I come off as being preachy, but that's not my intention at all. I think I get it from my dad, who was the master lecturer of all time :(

    I'm not trying to start crap or call anyone out. I just can't figure out why people would recommend more glue ups, more milling, more room for error and use thinner lumber when Both are presumably equally dry, both being face glued giving edge grain show faces. 

    I've seen many threads over the years when someone asks about gluing together 845, 4/4 boards for a top and everyone tells them to get thicker lumber. Now, someone has the option and is told to go thin and I haven't heard a reason that isn't the same with both..

    If the general idea is that the 3.5" thick dressed lumber will move substantially More, than 1.5" in a glue up, enough to warp your whole thing, while also acknowledging that most people will flatten their bench regardless of thickness of laminations, And knowing it's so little of an issue that some leave it....., I can't get on board. I'm confused honestly and trying to follow the train of thought.