bob493

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Posts posted by bob493

  1. Before you stain oak, take a damp cloth and raise the grain a bit. Do the stain, then sand back a bit when dry. Should eliminate any issues with blotching. edit: Thats actually pretty universal advice for most woods. Helps a lot to get a uniform color.

  2. Alcohol dyes can be sanded back pretty easily. I would take a medicine dropper or syringe and fill in the voids carefully. It really shouldn't bleed out too much. I do inlays with black dye on maple, never been an issue for me. Any bleed out is easily sanded back.

     

     

  3. 7 hours ago, K Cooper said:

    Really neat ideas, both on the box and the way you're making up for the lost space. Will the paw print go in the box or be the lid?

    Thanks.

    Thought about it a few different ways, but its gonna be hung like a picture frame, and the impression will go inside the box more like a small shadow box.

  4. thanks gents.

     

    First I tried the miters on the table saw, but something aint right there, and i dont want to spend 3 weeks sorting that out. I remembered a scarf joint jig I made to cut 10.5 degree cuts for guitar necks, and simply made the jig 45 degrees and used the chop saw.

    From there I actually used my larson honing guide, slid the sides in, and sanded the 45 flush. Came out surprisingly well and easy to do.

  5. So.... my dad's pup is getting put to sleep tomorrow. I had to sneak around like a ninja to get the paw print in plaster without him knowing... thats been the hardest part  so far.

     

    Anywho, this is my first "Real" woodworking project. I've done guitars for years, but thats a whole different animal. I want it to come out nice, and miters... ugh I had to redo it like 137 times. I narrowed down the problem and dialed in my issues, and Im pleased with the results.

    I got my miters down perfect (edit: not "perfect" but no obvious gaps. I still need a lot of practice), but realized in "Shaping them" the box is now like 1/16th too small haha, but i figured out a solution.

     

    Glue still drying, but I think you guys can see where im going with it.  You can see my first attempt at miters... I was like "lol nope!" But it's coming out well. I hope he loves it.

    edit: pic looks wonky, but its square. The walnut spline things are sticking out pretty far.

     

     

     

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  6. Heres the thing, "epoxy" is a grouping term ,and not all epoxies are created equal. Some are very heat sensitive, and if you use an power sander (DA, RO, doesnt matter) it will simply gum up, and theres no way back from that. Some dry really really hard, and polish up beautifully. 

    The main difference is the cure time. If you used 30 minute cure epoxy, forget it. 8 hour stuff is probably the lowest curing time you can polish up like glass.  I use 48 hour WS for "high quality" stuff.

    All that aside, the process is pretty darn similar to polishing a clear coat on a car. Sand up to 2000 grit, polish with a DA compound, and follow up with a polishing compound. I can recommend you some stuff if you need.

  7. 6 hours ago, Tom King said:

    If the scribe was carbide, you could scribe an alignment line down the center back of your mortise chisel, and you would be good to go putting a mortise in the center of anything.

    IF only I had a mortise ;) hahaha but thats a great idea.

  8. Wow nice haul! 12,000$ in raw lumber sounds like both heaven and hell rolled together though haha. 

     

    I don't use even a small fraction of what you got, but I typically get "2nd grade" walnut because it has some sapwood in it. Not only do I prefer sapwood (i love the contrast ) it knocks the price from 6$ bdft to 3$... 

    Hope you post some pics of what you're gonna use that stuff for !

  9. 8 hours ago, Eric. said:

    Agreed, but I'm not so sure it's as geographical as you make it sound..."Pennsylvania cherry is redder."  Color can vary from mountain top to mountain top, or even tree to tree.  I'm not convinced yet that there's any universal rule about geographical differences in color.  Like I said, the last batch of Penn cherry that came in was nasty yellow...explain that one...

    Weather and growing conditions are quite different, and do produce differences in trees. I think its fair to categorize them regionally, but it may not be universally accurate. The cherry I have right now is almost padauk red from michigan. I dont buy my wood in mississippi, so i cant say if they are "less red" lol. Northern woods are typically more dense, and that could account for color differences.