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Everything posted by bob493

  1. analine or alcohol based dyes work great on oak!
  2. With this kind of damage, you're probably better off sanding it flat, applying a GOOD sealer (I use bondo in these situations) and painting it. Redoing a veneer will be costly and time consuming. Painting it a dark brown or black would be the way to go imo.
  3. cutting this wood was NOT pleasurable haha.
  4. Funny, guitar builders/ luthiers will pay through the nose for "Barnwood". 2.00$/BF is a steal, but haggle down and get 1.75$. You can sell it for 10-12$/BF (or more!) to people like Ron Kirn.
  5. My personal anecdotes from buying rough cut lumber 1) go into it KNOWING how to calculate board foot, or at the very least, have a calculator tailored for it (plenty online). I have had people "rip me off" and drastically undersell because they had no idea how to calculate board feet and screwed the numbers up. 2) definitely understand the "4/4" vs "1 inch" thing. Before I knew lumber, I was QUITE PISSED when my "1 inch" board was really 6-7/8" thick. 3) please discuss courtesy of sorting lumbers. I was at a local lumber yard, watched this guy literally tear a cord of wood a
  6. thanks terry! Heres pics, im not a photographer, sorry :-/ Here's 2 smaller pieces, one wet one dry (for color comparison) And this is a larger piece, next to white oak and ash for color comparison (doesn't seem to be accurate. It's very close to padauk in color)
  7. Watch this guy. You may not be building guitars, but this guy is one of my favorite people to watch. He's safe, he's smart, and his work speaks for itself. He also has great "demonstration" video's and isn't dry and boring like a lot of the "how-to" video's. He shows everything in this particular video, minus installing your bits in your router. edit: as well... if your router bit hit the floor, consider it dead already. Even a small chip or microscopic crack you cant see can cause serious serious problems. (imagine if the bit itself is damaged and you dont see it, and you spin it up
  8. Not to be 'holier than thou' here, but its extremely foolish to work with any wood without a respirator. I learned that lesson the hard way working with walnut... walnut absolutely wrecks me for a few days after some moderate sanding and cutting. Not overly expensive, the filters are dirt cheap, and it keeps wood dust from the wet sticky bits in your body. for a space that small, I would honestly get a couple box fans and make some
  9. I blame mathias wendell for every home brew machine out there. I personally think its stupid, unsafe, and ultimately a waste of time and money. You can get table saw bases for 20$ on craigslist pretty much any where.
  10. this will apply to super glue... that said, if you're burning through OUNCES at a time of CA, may be time to reconsider your technique or swap to a slow set epoxy. 3.18$ for an ounce of super glue is actually a very good bargain, I doubt you would find cheaper anywhere. Epoxy is the only "cheaper" alternative. You can thin out epoxy with xylene, and it will probably be stronger than the CA. I've set inlays with both epoxy and CA, and frankly I like the work time of the epoxy better myself. The epoxy also fills voids a bit better so the over all look appear
  11. I've used jatoba, wenge, and lignum vitae a few times. I personally have found them to be quite lovely . Granted, I always laminate my necks too. I'll most likely be laminating it with some flame maple, for both stability and aesthetics.
  12. Wow what a great idea! Simple and effective, very very nice!
  13. Who knows I guess. The wood is 12% moisture which is usable for pretty much anything. Im gonna rip it in half and use it for a few guitar necks, should be interesting anyway.
  14. Dang, he need to open an ebay shop! nice stuff!
  15. epoxy is incredibly neutral to any finish I've encountered. Just make sure you give it a light scuff with 400 to give it some "teeth" to hold a new finish, else anything put over top will simply flake off over time. The stain will obviously not affect the epoxy, so keep that in mind. Since you ARE using epoxy to fill the voids, you are much better off using a normal stain, then following up with a top coat of your choosing. I would use a wipe on poly for this instance, as it will soak into the ash's very wide open pores very well and offer better protection than an oil.
  16. I will post some tonight, I have my wood in my workshop which unfortunately isn't attached to my place.... Im aware a picture would speak a 1000 words here, sorry! Interesting, that may be right!
  17. bob493

    Wet sanding

    This poll is useless without knowing what type of finish you're going to be using; AS WELL as the type of buffers and compounds you have available. Assuming an arbor buffer and medium and fine cut polishers -> For nitrocellulose lacquers, you only need to go up to 1000 before buffing. Nitro heats up quickly, is relatively soft, and therefore incredibly easy to buff. Burn throughs are easily fixed with drop fills and more sanding too. Gets mirror shine without swirls (with proper technique) very easily. Unfortunately nitro isnt the most durable of finishes... For catalyzed finis
  18. If you need some peace of mind, I would use an oil (BLO or TO) and dip it in and submerge it for 24 hours, then let it dry for a week (or a day with BLO) and buff it with 0000 steel wool. BLO isn't "food safe", but a little bit on a ring isn't going to hurt anything. If you're looking for a hard finish, or shiny, epoxy would be the way to go. Blackwood doesn't need sealing at all, as its very closed grained, but t he epoxy will certainly make it water proof. All of that aside, apart from getting actually wet, blackwood is naturally very strong and oily, so humidity changes won't do m
  19. Yeah, see the density is 54 on there, and oak is 48. This is SIGNIFICANTLY heavier, Im about to cut off an inch of oak and this stuff and compare them. Any speculation of the wood in the mean time?
  20. You could always do a two tone table. I made a table out of red oak and maple. Came out very lovely, stained the maple a deep red, and the oak black. Finished with hand rubbed oil finish and its literally survived a 30' drop off my balcony (dont ask! haha)
  21. bob493

    Buckeye Burl

    My 2 cents (just an opinion from my side of the fence as a guitar builder) Buckeye burls fetch a HUGE amount of money for guitar builders. 24" wide = length of a guitar body. 13" wide = width of a guitar body 2" thick = thickness (generalizations of size mind you!) That would net you 4 body blanks, and given the quality, could fetch you 2-500 (depending on figure of course) each blank. Then you can use that money and get some wood thats already portioned for your needs. Not affiliated with this site, simply showing you Im not blowing smoke up your butt lol (this one is only an i
  22. Latex paint wont work long term (unless you globbed it on there super heavily). Given the size, you should tar or wax the ends to prevent checking.
  23. Hey guys, new here, but i have a pressing question. I am very well versed on lumber species, both indigenous and exotic to the USA. However, I went to my local lumber guy this morning, and I was buying off cuts to do a nice end grain cutting board or whatever, and I saw this very lovely piece of wood by itself. It struck me as a honduras mahogany given its color and grain pattern, but when I picked it up, it was HEAVY. I mean, practical joke heavy. It wasn't the largest of pieces, so I was kinda bummed out (guitar necks), but he had a 3" x 2" x 72" board he sold me for 20$. He said it