bob493

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Everything posted by bob493

  1. wow, glad I asked. I did 1.75" (cuts my cost literally in half). Even that thickness looks almost anemic, but it should be a nice piece when i finish it. Im so glad I didn't do something silly like i was originally thinking. I also realized i made a greivous mispeak earlier. Doing EDGE grain, not END grain (i.e. quarter sawn). That might change things.
  2. As long as youre doing a nice top coat, I'd go maple and dye it black (not "stain" from home depot, a black analine dye).
  3. 1200$ gets a rather nice cnc machine nowadays -> Inventables X-carve. I've been on the fence with it for a while. Would greatly speed up the process of my stuff. Its a respectable size, but may not be prudent for furniture makers. Inlay work with a cnc is just a joy. For now, I have a friend that I go to for cnc stuff. I can do it all by hand, but man, that CNC shaves the working time by a considerable margin. 15 minutes to carve, and another 20 to sand and finish. By hand it would take me 3-4 hours. For those of you anti-cnc, one of these is CNC'd, the other is completely
  4. Trick for melamine and laminate type stuff is use a good strong painters tape, and cut through that. Works on hardwoods too. Scribing with a razor also works very well at keeping it together, but you run the risk of going off course, and a line would be very noticeable.
  5. I don't disagree, at least not entirely. Given the choice for practicality, most people would choose precision over.... "charm". Repeatability of intricate designs with precision on a scale humans can't do is the real appeal of cnc. I don't care how great of a craftsman someone is, they simply can not match a CNC. To some that is sterile. I say it depends on the piece. I do get a bit annoyed when the elitist crowd comes out and preaches what "is" and "isn't" acceptable wood working. Usually those arguments end in some circular logic temper tantrum that no one benefits
  6. Using maple, s4s 3.5" x .75" actual size, doing end grain block, so face grain will be glued. 3 feet x 2 feet island for the kitchen. How much thickness do i actually need? I don't expect warping to be an issue with face grain glue ups. I'm thinking about 1" thick should be plenty. Any thoughts?
  7. Correct me if Im wrong, but thats ALL wood working tools.
  8. All you see is the CNC running on its own. What you don't see is the craftsmanship behind the design and many many many hours of work programming it to run that specific function. The beauty of CNC is repeatability though. He could literally make another map like that in as little as carving time of the machine. Doing that by hand will be near impossible.
  9. This is simply a "mistake" I'll have to learn on my own then lol. At this juncture in time, Im not willing to drop 50$ on two small hinges. If Im wrong, so be it, I can always fix it later
  10. Its simply another tool. Some people would feel the same about your table saw.
  11. What are you asking us for? Get started! I personally love contrast designs like this. You could go more simple with a flat panel on the purpleheart top, and doll up the trim around it.
  12. you can get a pound of beeswax for 5-10 bucks. That ALWAYS works, and you can go as thick as you like. Its cheaper, works better, and is more friendly on the lungs.
  13. then i dont care haha. I'll never spend 50$ on a small hinge lol
  14. You really should try to find an image of what you're thinking about. To be completely blunt, what you're asking for isn't making a lot of sense. you can't do this with mahogany. If you try to stain/dye mahogany and do the sand back thing, it really doesn't work. Mahogany looks VERY plain until you put some finish on it. This is a guitar body im working on that just has some water wiped on top of it.
  15. bob493

    wood surprise!

    Major bummer :-/ and more surprises, though not the good kind this time around. Cut the piece off to use for my top, and there was a HUGE knot under the surface. I was prepared for the large knot on top, and would have been able to easily work around it, but that other hole gives me problems. So, I'll see how this "trick" works out. Using some z-poxy 48 hour cure with copper powder pigment. I was planning on going a natural finish with gold hardware, so this might look really good, it might look like crap, we're just gonna have to wait and see.
  16. No I saw that, they are 7.99$ for 2 at rockler. I will simply polish them myself to save the 40$ haha
  17. Oh your a life saver, thank you!
  18. As jim mentioned, I use a small diamond plate to square up my water stones. Its a painless process, and the sandpaper/glass trick works just as well to be honest. One thing, if you have blades wider than the stone, don't try to use it. It just doesn't work well enough.
  19. Guys, hope one of you knows what Im looking for. Im building a watch case, and theres a special type of hinge that is mortised in, its also got a curved metal piece that keeps a lid from over extending open, kinda locks it open at 90 degrees. Im not looking for a specific hinge more or less looking for a specific function. If you know of a small, good looking hinge that will keep a box lid from flying all the way open, please lemme know!
  20. Its a king water stone. You "can" use oil, but water is best to get the slurry going. So, just use water imo. Its not expensive, those sell for like 30 bucks, but they work really well, and are some of my favorites. Soak it for a while, I just leave my stones submerged, but that does soften and shorten the lifespan of them. But i hate waiting.. 800/4000 never made much sense to me, but I would honestly buy a 1000/6000 stone set to compliment. 800 -> 1000 -> 4000 -> 6000. I normally just go 1000 to 6000 wtihout any issues, but a step between would be ideal. Amazon sells
  21. any reason you cant run a support beam or bracket underneath? 8/4 stock does give you plenty of surface area for joinery work tho. if you want more surface area, you can cut your joints at an angle if youre comfortable with that.
  22. That looks great man, good work!
  23. What your describing IS grain filling. There's no other way to do it. Mahogany absorbs dyes too well and the stain and sand back method doesn't work. I've been building guitars a long time. How I said it is how it's done. You're obviously welcome to explore other avenues, and I won't stop you from wasting your time. If this is what you're going for, this is grain filling. Http://images.lilypix.com/albums/userpics/10152/normal_Grain_Filler_picture.jpg