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Everything posted by bob493

  1. Nope, no shellac, no gel stains. No sealing the wood, thats the OPPOSITE of what he wants. Using stains and dyes on mahogany is wonderful. But its such an absorbent wood, getting the layer of color off will be a nightmare. This is akin to a dog hair finish on walnut. The best way I've found is with epoxy, but some people use some junk called timber mate (I jest, I just prefer epoxy). Since you're sounding "unsure" timbermate will be my recommendation. You will mix in a black pigment or dye into the timbermate, and you use a spatula and press it into the pores and getting it smooth
  2. Why stain wood? because reasons. remember, appeal is both a matter of taste and subjectivity. Some prefer the look of stained/dyed woods.
  3. This is not as simple a question as you'd think. - The majority of wood workers use oils and polyurethanes for their ease. - There are many many many many ways to color wood. Dyes and stains have many subgroups. You can also tint clear coats. You can wax color into wood. Cerrusing, painting, and other things can color wood. - some finishes are much more difficult to use, and limited in options (i.e. you need a spray rig to apply some) - some finishes are quite nasty to yourself and the environment. In my findings, the toxicity is directly proportional to how awesome
  4. by the way... my tools got dull just by LOOKING at this thread. Have fun with that lol. Make damn sure you have some sharp bits for the lacewood especially, or youre gonna have a bad time.
  5. bob493

    wood surprise!

    Im 90% sure its ash. That said, I did look at some elm, and it does unfortunately share some striking resemblances. I've never personally used elm, but I've also never seen ash with those defined, dark grain lines that run through (almost like ziricote does) Ill know more when I finish cleaning it up tomorrow.
  6. bob493

    wood surprise!

    So, about 4 years ago, I bought a bunch of wood "just to get it". This included these large ash/elm (he wasn't sure, and i didn't know enough at the time) blocks (3" x 38" x 10") that he sold me for 5$ for 8 of them. Not 5$ each, just 5$. I have never gotten around to messing with them due to their sheer size and my lack of use, but tonight I got a hair up my butt waiting for some epoxy to dry to scrub one down and see what it really was. Well, Im quite pleased so far! (note, now that i take a picture of it, i can see figuring, but in person it looks like chainsaw marks). Being 3"
  7. Oh man if thats bubinga, thats even worse... Not the highest of resolutions in that photo, looks like bastogne walnut that I get to use from time to time.. Whatever it is, its absolutely gorgeous!
  8. Thats definitely not brazilian rosewood. a) If it was, a piece that large would cost hundreds, if not over a 1000 dollars. A guitar manufacturer would have likely purchased all of it by now, especially PRS (they have 2 wood buyers that literally travel around just to buy stock like that) b ) if it IS, then it would desperately need a CITES verification or that is highly highly illegal to sell/buy otherwise c) it doesn't look like brazilian rosewood, sorry! It definitely looks like a true rosewood (dalbergia genus), but it lacks the "Wow" factor of brazilian. That piece l
  9. Can't learn without making mistakes or learning from others. If they dont do their homework, then ignorance shall be punished. The appeal of that "easy purchase" is definitely there. After a long trial and error process, I have settled on mirka sandpapers. I used harbor freight stuff ONCE because it was so damn cheap, and the paper lasts like one stroke haha. Hard to justify spending 4-5 times the cost on something you don't see yourself... until you see it
  10. Haha some hilarious things in that "Ad' xD Jokes on you, I think some of those are awesome 48 piece screw driver kit? Sign me up. I probably have 300 floating around and some how can never find one.... Id say people are responsible for their purchases. My only complaints are when people try to "justify" these purchases against other higher quality devices. I actually own a cordless drill from there that I literally throw around and dont have to worry about; I think I got it free too? Obviously my dewalt gets more love.... As long as you know youre buying crap
  11. Nice! Almost makes me sad when wood has to wait... years
  12. Might be worth while to check out if someone can kiln dry that for you. i had a pile of maple I got for free, payed to have it kiln dried, sold a few pieces to wind up with a net profit over all. Place up the road cost me 37 cents a board foot, and took a matter of weeks, not years to become usable.
  13. Yes, thanks guys. I hope no one is offended I went that route after asking for advice. I figured I had the store down the road, worst I would be is out a couple hours of time, with the potential to save a few hundred dollars for the same result. Everyones opinion and experiences are greatly appreciated, and didn't fall on deaf ears.
  14. Use a thin blade sharpie, and seal it with polyurethane. Stay away from shellac. As long as they arent cramming the sharpie down like a 3rd grade with a crayon, it'll be fine. You WANT the wood to absorb the sharpie.
  15. More "proof" of its cost effectiveness here...
  16. A proper glue joint is stronger than the wood it glues together. That said, you have a few things going on here. End grain to face grain, weak wood, and the liability to be kicked. You sincerely need some mechanical joint for this to be sturdy for the long haul. Gluing will work, but a good kick and its probably just gonna rip the fibers out of the face grain. Aside from screwing, you can domino, T & G (given your other picture, that middle piece comes right off, putting in a groove would be incredibly simple), or even dowel to gain much needed strength. Also, simpl
  17. Im in the wrong business...
  18. You could also go the opposite route and stain the sapwood sections darker to make everything match more. I would lose my mind with those sides personally speaking. It looks "dirty" like maple gets sometimes.
  19. Mr Knott, I spent quite a few hours back and forth between lowes and home depot between the rigid and delta. The fence on the delta looks great, but isn't anywhere near as solid as the rigid's. The top also felt "funny", i don't really know how to describe the differences from a quantitative standpoint, but the rigid "felt better". The miter gauge on the rigid also felt more substantial. Not saying the delta isn't a decent saw, but it LOOKS better than it feels, if that makes any sense. Brought the rigid home today, blade variance is +/- 1 thousandth, which is pretty damn ok for m
  20. Well, for my uses, this appears to be just fine! I can safely use a table saw now, been neglecting my old beast for a while because its just not usable. For comparison, I haven't finished setting up everything yet, the stock blades gonna be replaced with my forrest 24T flat tooth blade... but the results should speak for themselves. Top is the craftsman with the forrest blade, the bottom is the rigid with the stock blade, food for thought. Im gonna scrap the craftsman, the top will be repurposed. Everything seems copasetic on the rigid *Shrug*.
  21. Hey guys, truly appreciate all the input here. I went and grabbed the rigid 4512 today. I am just a hobbyist, but the fence and faces felt really nice compared to everything else i played with. I went to menards, sears, lowes, home depot, and some other small stores around here. The delta... the only thing that felt superior was the sheer size of it. Its much larger than the rigid... but as a hobbyist, Im not ripping huge stock any way. The fence was laughable compared to the rigid, the table wasn't smooth, the blade plate insert was extremely awkward (very very thick and had multi
  22. bob493


    I use them with flat panel glue ups. Applies very consistent and even pressure along the seam(s) and getting a clamp around a thin stock is always a pain. These are probably not very useful for large things, or for most wood working, but are unparalleled for what their intended use is for.
  23. My bad, kinda all over the place here. I was mostly addressing the 'start over' comment.
  24. While this will work, I feel learning to fix your mistakes goes beyond the value of the wood. Some occasions where restarting a project isn't an option.