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Everything posted by bob493

  1. Heres how i built mine|0&pl=1&Ntt=counter+top+laminate 25$ (I got mine for 79$ on sale iirc, but still in the budget. NO, its not a triton router, but for a hobbyist it works well, has plenty of power, and has 1/4 and 1/2" collets, though not quick adjusts) Has good reviews. 109$ 2 of these
  2. Not sure if I just have a good one, but I've been using a harbor freight OSS for years with absolutely no issues. Negligble runout, more accurate than I can ever be... Not saying go out and grab it, but just a positive review from a long time owner.
  3. Allright, I'll go do that now. Well. With the belt off it made the problem readily apparent. I think the bearing on the motor is going out. The pulley was rattling all over the place lol. *sigh* more crap to fix :-/
  4. The belt is a bit old I guess, didn't think that could cause the issue though. I'll give it a go
  5. No nothing's broke as far as I can see. I'll have to make you a picture to explain better. This is kinda whats going on, just a random picture I found online.
  6. Keep in mind, drying oils have oxidizers that will darken any wood. Cherry finishes very very similarly to maple, and I think a nice satin clear coat of some kind would work wonders.
  7. Given the options, I would apply some matte spar urethane with a foam brush, applying thin coats. You can use some 0000 steel wool to smooth coats out without damaging the... "finish".
  8. So I have a vintage craftsman table saw. Everything is functionally perfect, motor is strong, table is true, blade is near perfectly aligned (took some effort but I dialed it in to .002" variance), and the stand is great. I still notice my cuts aren't that crisp, nice edge, and I ran it today just to see what was going on. Well, I finally realized, the motor is bouncing and causing variable tension on the belt to the blade. I am thinking of attaching springs, but will this cause too much tension? I can't really think of any great ideas, and google searches aren't helping me a
  9. Those projects look fantastic. Nothing wrong with a natural finish. The OP asked for something and the shockingly arrogant replies about how "ugly" something is is staggering. A forum is a place for many thoughts. I'd love to discuss different finishing types and options, but the OP asked a specific one. You don't have to like my answer, but its correct and works to what he's asking for. Instead of contradiction, I'm met with arrogance, presumptuous berating that is frankly making me a bit defensive. Your tastes are not exclusive yet somehow it's always the "final word". Why ? And I
  10. Heres a fun question, why dont you guys show your extensive mahogany wood working. I'd love to see the pieces YOU have done with mahogany. Show your preferred style of finishing on mahogany (or its close variants) please.
  11. Im having a hard time believing any of you have even worked with mahogany (or its faux variants). This is a pretty cut and dry finishing technique that has been around for thousands of years... yet somehow "now its ugly". Intriguing. Also, I have no problem with differentiating opinions, I enjoy hearing about new techniques and alternatives. Quite simply you guys are basically telling this guy hes an idiot for wanting a darker finish, and that you know best. I answered the question asked, you did not and gave me crap for it. Yet another example of grain filled mahogany. This ti
  12. I believe you guys simply googled "dogs hair finish" and dont understand what it is. You are NOT limited to black and white. Similar process to cerusing, you can use whatever colors your heart desires. In the case of mahogany, a dark red/brown/black grain filler is pretty standard, even in furniture making. These are both grain filled pieces. compared to this which clearly isnt..
  13. Yeah, so distasteful... and gross... lets just paint it black... *yawn*
  14. Then you aren't doing it right or haven't seen the right pieces. Similar process to cerusing. It looks good and you can use any color you want. Black in mahogany is pretty standard and looks kncredible. Faux mahogany reaps the same benefits of this type of finish.
  15. a stain is designed to penetrate the wood. Shellac is designed to seal the wood. Succinct problem here. Using an alcohol based dye will solve your problems.
  16. Oak is a porous wood. ANY finish without a grain filler will "Absorb" into the wood. This will not look pretty on oak, and I strongly recommend a good grain filler. Epoxy would be my recommended grain filler for a job as this. YES you can use any clear coat finish over raw wood. That expansion mythos doesn't really have much an effect. Adding a flex additive to the clear will prevent any issues. Id also like to point out metal expands and contracts a LOT MORE with temperature than any wood. Moisture on the other hand...
  17. Dog's hair finishing works great for this type of wood. Get a black dye (dont use stain, its just messy), rub it in, let it dry. Sand it back a bit until you see raw wood. When you apply the finish, the grain will EXPLODE.
  18. I bought the set. Great guns for the money, no leaking problems like the other cheap guns, and the fit and finish are nice. Good purchase for those with small spraying projects who dont need a 400$ gun.
  19. No way to do this without sanding the whole thing. At best, you can use a tinted lacquer to blend the whole piece, but at certain angles it will still be visible. Up to you to do it right or find a quick fix.
  20. answering the question asked... CA and epoxy work best for sealing inlay work. Shellac will work but not as well, and will take you ages to build the thickness required. You can tint the epoxy black or get black CA (it exists) to fill in voids.
  21. I work almost exclusively with figured woods. Your definition of "movement" is probably different from mine. Kiln dried figured maple moves when you cut it. All wood does actually. Prove it, go bookmatch a piece of maple and let it sit for a day. Bet you any ANYTHING you want both pieces will bow out, not matter what you're doing. edit : some pieces I grabbed from the shelf. I have about 100 pieces of these if you'd care to see them. All kiln dried to ~10-12% humidity before cutting. Our experiences may differ based on size or what we amount of movement we consider to be "bad". It happen
  22. Hes not running a non profit company though. Its HIS design, and by extension is his to do what he feels like with it. Bosch should have licensed with him, win win for everyone.
  23. An option I use for things like this... sounds crazy, but hardwood flooring can get some great results. Bamboo and teak would be really cheap from a hardwood flooring place, certainly under 7$ a bd ft. Big negatory on sapele as well. That wood MOVES, and if it has any figure at all, will be a complete pain in the butt... sure is gorgeous though!
  24. Ive tried that, it still "pulls" and causes some bowing, even if I clamp the ends of the joint, theres some bowing in the middle. I typically get some wax paper and clamp a 1x3 piece of iron wood down the middle. Right tool for the job is basically what Im going for here. book matching. A face to face would be no sweat with any clamp really haha. People way more experienced than myself told me I'd be best to get some parallel clamps for the length of the faces alone and ability to keep the pieces from bowing even a little bit.
  25. Something like this up to the task?