bob493

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Everything posted by bob493

  1. the problem is clamping a 24" x 14" x .25" piece. I need surface area, not pressure so much.
  2. Looking to step up my hand game a tad... can someone recommend a cost effective decent plane for a shooting board? I have pretty large hands, so those little guys dont work so well for me...
  3. I typically lock my blades in at 90 and use jigs to get angles. If thats an option for you, consider that into your sled perhaps.
  4. real mahogany is actually pretty light... that looks really identical to real mahogany. Like, COMPLETELY identical. Since its figured, its going to be a bit more difficult to cut planing tools, as is most figured woods. The grain becomes interlocked more and becomes more difficult to work with.
  5. Thats not really an overly figured piece of wood, but its nice. A good way to get grain to pop on maple is to use a stain. Get a nice amber, brown, or black (hell you can use any color) and it absorbs into the figure more than the flat wood. When you sand it back, the figuring retains some color and gets you a nice contrast on the figure to really "pop". Finish with a nice clear that wont yellow. This means no oil or polyurethane. Spar varnish, lacquer, urethane, etc are all great choices. figured maple LOVES to move. LOVES it. A good trick is immediately after you cut, plane
  6. Something taking 1/32" passes doesn't need much torque when its spinning. Momentum will keep the mass spinning fast. Look up start up current vs running current to see what I mean.
  7. definitely not poplar...
  8. You dont. hence the need for parallel clamps haha. You can get crafy with some other clamping methods, but f clamps will ALWAYS bow out joint, even if you clamp the middles. edit: Sorry I wasn't clear. I have a lot of clamps. I have 34 F style, 12 pipe clamps, 3 bajillion spring clamps I never use, large and small c clamps, and even a couple G clamps. I was using F style for years, and realized I am probably doing it wrong. Parallel clamps have always been a "thats expensive, I dont need it" kinda thing, but Im tired of finnagling methods to glue tops together.
  9. You're 100% correct. A stain will simply color what gets absorbed. getting the two sections to match perfectly will be nigh on impossible, regardless of method. You can get it "closer" but there will be a witness line where the boards are different. Proper wood selection is the best cure for that, but I dont think its a bad thing, its part of the piece. A possible solution is to bleach the one side. Oxalic acid iirc. You could also use ammonia to darken the pieces and that will be pretty uniform... but pretty dark.
  10. Yup. Measure epoxy, paints, whatever...
  11. Then your computer cpu is just a 2"x2" plate of silicone! lol
  12. If you want a cheap bandsaw, then GO CHEAP. Don't spend 150$ on garbage... Theres pretty much always a cheapie craftsman small bandsaw on craigslist EVERYWHERE. I had one, and I wound up throwing it in the garbage. Spent 30$ on it and learned a lot, but it was a huge headache.
  13. redwood.... for light contrast, some easily available woods should be Maple (clean heartwood) Ash Limba white oak (terrible look with redwood imo) Holly Elm
  14. am I the only one who uses one of these? haha http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-AWS-1KG-BLK-Signature-Digital/dp/B002SC3LLS/ref=lp_289787_1_3?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1436979218&sr=1-3
  15. I use pipe clamps, not quite what I need. I typically find they have such narrow jaws that they put a LOT of pressure on an angle, and cause poor jointing. I typcially use them in conjunction with F clamps to get even pressure.
  16. Poor grammer is a killer (sorry! I love me some irony is all ) On a serious note, this is a forum, but in a professional setting, poor verbal skills is a huge turn off for my business in about every possible way.
  17. For exotics, I typically use polyurethane or epoxy. titebond doesn't cut it ( i dont want to hear about random success stories with titebond, its just not the best option). 20 minute epoxy is for hobby repairs, not gluing up wood. You want long cure, the longer the better actually. 24hour west systems or zpoxy works best from the things I've tried. Cheaper epoxies just don't work well, and have next to no shear strength. Wiping with acetone and a paper towel is a good idea to get rid of the surface oils, be quick in your process.
  18. jointers are more speed than torque. 1hp is plenty for pretty much anything under 8".
  19. http://www.lowes.com/pd_105568-47120-SGY-AIR160TZ___?productId=50246671&pl=1&Ntt=kobalt+spray+gun Seems to be in the "too good to be true" market. Kobalt makes some pretty decent stuff, Im probably gonna pick this up. Any one have one of these? I'll probably grab the set tomorrow, and let you guys know how it goes. Would be quite the boon in the "cheap" spray gun market I would think.
  20. A good way to learn cad is use elementary software. Play around with this, it really gives you a basis of whats going on. May seem silly, but it gets you the basics down very quickly. You can extrapolate it to a higher end CAD program, albeit they are much more in depth and difficult. Practice practice practice! https://www.tinkercad.com/
  21. Anything you do to green wood will not stay that way... keep that in mind.
  22. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-6-in-True-Blue-Blade-Pocket-Combination-Square-E255/100192421 Been using this for a while now. It's actually incredibly smooth, and incredibly accurate. I have some engineering squares, that are guaranteed to be accurate to within .0005", and i dont have a tool accurate enough to measure any difference between my combo square and this thing. Its seriously good.
  23. sounds good! Ill give them a gander. What about the jorgensen brand? I found some on amazon, they seemed reasonably priced ~20$
  24. Christmas in july? haha Im willing to pay retail... I only need 4 really. I was just hoping someone had some hidden gems up their sleeve lol