Tom Cancelleri

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About Tom Cancelleri

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday December 19

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    : Northern Virginia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Turning, pens, box making, cabinet making, furniture making.

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  1. Quality Brand Big Power Tools and recommendations

    I've always recommended Jet as an option. The problem is people are usually stuck in a state of mind that grizzly is low end stationary tools and powermatic is high end stationary tools. I've got a mix of tools in my shop from my 8" spiral head Grizzly jointer, a slew of Jet tools (tablesaw, lathe, drill press), Powermatic 15hh planer, Laguna 1412 bandsaw, and a Minimax MM20 bandsaw. I can say with great confidence that my Jet stuff runs great and there's no shortage of quality, however when compared to the Minimax in terms of quality and overall beefiness, none of them compare. I'm planning to sell off my jointer and planer and upgrade to a combo unit from either SCM or Felder, I've definitely outgrown my jointer twice over.
  2. Preparing for a Roubo Build

    Definitely make sure you've got those lower stretchers. When doing operations such as planing, you don't want those legs racking. While the top will probably have some kind of lag screw/giant spax screw holding the top down onto the tenons, when you start planing things are gonna start wobbling. You can always use the knockdown bench hardware from Benchcrafted to make your base "collapsible".
  3. Black Friday cometh

    More than likely it will be 10% off Jet and Powermatic. In addition, Jet clamps will probably be 20% off. RIP 50% off Jet clamps. There might be a 10% off Laguna sale, haven't seen one from them in a while. If there is a Laguna sale, chances are Supermax sanders will be part of it since Laguna acquired them.
  4. woodpecker saw blades

    I also have a Ridge Carbide TS2000. It's a fantastic blade. It's beefy, leaves a really clean cut on everything I've cut so far. Crosscut plywood, no issues, ripped cherry, walnut, hard maple. No burning, and no strain on my cabinet saw. The teeth have a good amount of carbide. I believe it's good for about 20 sharpenings if I remember correctly.
  5. Project and weekend work

    The laser wattage is the difference hence the price.
  6. Are these just square pieces? You can cut it on a table saw with a cross cut blade 60-80 tooth.
  7. Routing handles in a cutting board

    I usually put the handle at the bottom with a cove bit. Another way to do it would be to use a rabbet or slot cutting bit if you wanted to do it with the board horizontal
  8. Project and weekend work

    I have a feeling it's the one from Gearbest. http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_242560.html?currency=USD&vip=762116&gclid=CjwKCAjw2s_MBRA5EiwAmWIac0442aFSfj43aTCF9GMeaBsaEInAzweRQpOeJoMyGr8evme1eI08JBoCz5QQAvD_BwE
  9. Buying an x-carve

    The bit size has a fair bit to do with the ability to remove that much material. If that were a 1/8" bit it would have broken before the first pass. However given what I was making, the bit size was appropriate for the holes. Also, I don't think that qualifies as a dust shoe Again, depending on what you're doing with a CNC depends on how much machine one person needs. My needs in my shop where 99% of my building is done via hand and power tools. The random inlays or maybe cutting small parts for making a hand full of jewelry boxes while I work on other things, the XCarve is sufficient. The majority of people using them and assembling them don't know their ass from their elbows. If you want to go one step further, forget the Shapeoko and look at the CNC Shark. Again, for what Duck was looking to do, etching images into vinyl records, even the cheap Chinese CNCs on ebay would be sufficient for cutting that.
  10. Buying an x-carve

    I decided on the remaining 5 to have the machine drill the holes instead of just dimpling and then drilling on the drill press. They were cleaner when I used the CNC to cut them.
  11. Buying an x-carve

    6061. I was using a carbide ball nose 1/8" bit. It was recommended that faster shallow passes be used for the aluminum. I tried one while using a lube and it actually cut worse. Most people recommended cutting it dry. I wound up settling on using a dry bit lubricant but not a spray. That first section I cut, I made a mistake and plowed the bit into the side of the piece messing it up. That's a lesson you learn quickly not to repeat.
  12. Buying an x-carve

    The shapeoko has a stronger gantry, the axes on the shapeoko use linear rails versus v groove rails and rollers. The shapeoko and the Xcarve both use belts for moving the axes. I've run my Xcarve for 12 hours straight, 30 minutes at a time between switching out blanks for the plaques I was making. I did this for 2 days, then another hour for cutting keyholes on the backs for hanging the plaques. It's not as stiff laterally as I would like it to be. However for my use it's sufficient. If I'm cutting big items, I'm gonna use my 5 HP bandsaw, Tablesaw, and I'm gonna flatten boards with my jointer and planer.
  13. Buying an x-carve

    Easel is a web based application. It's really easy to use and great for getting started. Makes doing inlays really easy, as well as most other "2D" cutting. If you want to do 3d carving, you're going to need to use an application that can model, and generate GCode for this. I prefer Autodesk Fusion 360, it's free for hobbyists. It has a bit of a learning curve but there is tons of online learning for it via youtube and cad/cam websites.
  14. Buying an x-carve

    I buy my bits from http://drillbitsunlimited.com/ I've had the machine for 11 months. I had the previous version and then bought the upgrade kit. Because I bought the old version a week before the announcement of the new machine Inventables gave me a credit towards the new machine upgrade kit. I've paid for my machine twice over. I've made a good number of plaques and signs for people, which got me an order for 42 plaques. If you build it right and take your time and pay attention to tuning it properly it's a very reliable machine. I don't babysit mine anymore. It took about 6 weeks to learn the right feed speeds and depth for each bit. Once you get accustomed to the machine and you set your project up, I usually just set a timer and check on it periodically. For holding down vinyl records, I would suggest using a screw down clamp, they look like this. I suggest maybe gluing a bit of cork or some sort of high density foam to protect the vinyl so you don't mar it up.
  15. Buying an x-carve

    That's the stands I built for mine. Nothing fancy. Get the dust collection shoe for it. I do suggest making side brackets for the Y axis rails out of 1/8" aluminum plate. Get the precision 1/8" collet Get the touch plate kit Get a lot of bits. 1/32 is the smallest I usually use. It's for really fine detail. There's really only 4 bit sizes you need 1/4 if you're doing a lot of stock removal, 1/8 this will be your main bit for for most things, 1/16 when the 1/8 is just a bit too big, 1/32 for all things with lots of detail. Buy a lot of 1/32 bits, they will break after a while. Make yourself some cam clamps and adjustable sliding clamps. I made my own waste board instead of buying there's, bought a bunch of threaded inserts, and got 1/4 20 bolts for all my hold downs and clamps. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk