• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New York
  • Woodworking Interests
    hand tools
  1. When using most sharpening guides, check frequently and adjust your pressure accordingly. When using a sharpening guide, you can bias the pressure to the middle or one side or the other, or on the corners. What most sharpening guides do, is they help you keep a consistent angle (which by the way, slowly changes slightly as you wear away the metal).
  2. I do when I excavate wood, or when doing long dados. First I chop the waste, then I flatten riding the bevel of the chisel. Finally I cleanup with a router plane and sometimes a scraper. Another case is sometimes when doing half blind dovetails, I will use only one skew chisel. I will ride the flat face of the skew chisel to clean out one corner, and ride the bevel of the skew chisel to clean out the other.
  3. For me it is matter of convenience, not of saving time. I edge joint all the parts of the same width in a batch, and match joint them against each other. So I put a PMV11 blade in the plane I use for edge jointing. So that I can hold off on sharpening until I am done, and not have to sharpen in the middle of the process.
  4. How I do French cleats: 1) Mark the 45 degree angles on the ends of the board. 2) Use those marks to set a marking gauge to mark a line the full length for the low side of the 45 degree bevel (so the bevel will go from the far top edge of the board down to the line on the near edge/side). Pencil in the line. 3) Optional: Cheat and use a chamfer plane as far as I can go. 4) Use a jointer or jack plane, to plane the remainder of the bevel keeping it straight/even. With the goal of working the bevel down so it goes from the far back edge, down to my marking gauge line.