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Everything posted by SeventyFix

  1. With the recent completion of the Guild miter station build, I'm stoked about the organization, cleanliness and general productivity of my shop. I sent emails out to my favorite woodworking companies - those with whom I've spent a good deal of money patronizing over the years. A small handful sent back meaningful (not from automated systems) replies. This post is a shout out to Whiteside - who graciously sent me a banner to hang in my new shop and a T-shirt in my size. Whiteside makes absolutely fantastic router bits and I was really pleased to see them so responsive to the me / part of the microcosm that uses their products. General comments on the Guild build This is my first time making actual cabinets and it was a huge confidence builder. I will definitely be doing more. I deleted part of the original plans as I had limited space. Still worked out really nicely. Took 5 sheets of plywood if you're trying to accomplish something similar. I used the table saw entirely to make the cabinet doors and would encourage all to do so - the method employed in the Guild build uses the Domino leaves "gaps" in the doors - the table saw method is easy and leaves no gaps. I left space between the signs, cabinets, etc for a set of upper cabinets to be built soon. Everything was finished with satin Arm-R-Seal Other than that, AMA (ask me anything)
  2. Happy birthday. Also, I just signed up for a visit on Thursday the 14th around noon.
  3. I'm the same way with pencils - leaving them scattered around the shop. I'm very good at making a mark with a pencil, doing another quick task, coming back for that pencil in less than 60 seconds and being unable to find it. It's a superpower, really. I don't want to brag...
  4. Mick - Thank you for this information. I didn't know that Mathias Wandel had taken his pantorouter commercial. Like many, I've watched his videos for years. Also interesting about Felder's open house. I was in Carrolton yesterday picking up the T tracks from Incra ("free shipping"). I have the jointer/planer machine and will try to make it to the open house. Thanks again. Agreed 100% - For some reason, I just think that this one is particularly cool.
  5. It's getting close to the time of the year to start thinking about Christmas gifts. Some of my family members are gift giving savants - others not so much. In order to avoid the cringe-worthy ties and socks, I am starting a wish list. I'm not making a case for me getting any of these things - after all, I haven't been that nice this year. I encourage you to add your own suggestions. I'm especially looking for small collector/decorator items like the mug and miniature plane below. Double Square Standard - 6 Inch Blade Panel Saw - Rip Cut 7ppi Veritas Miniature Bevel-Up Jack Plane Woodpeckers Signature Mug Might this be the year for the Domino? Festool Emerald Edition DF 500 Q Domino Joiner
  6. Thank you for these thoughtful replies. I read and considered all of them. I agree - I am going to leave the design as-is and let the front of the saw extend beyond the front of the countertop. I wanted to ask for your opinion and put some thought into it before going at it alone and regretting some decision later.
  7. TL;DR: What is the optimum placement of the miter saw on this Guild miter station? I'm getting close to finishing the Guild miter station. I'm at the point of trying to figure out where to position the saw and the Incra T-tracks. Ideally, the countertop would be deep enough to fully support the piece that can be cut by the travel of the sliding miter saw. It looks like this won't be possible with the setup as I built it. (It is built to the dimensions in the Guild project document, to the best of my ability. My saw is different from the Dewalt used in the build example.) What is the best option for the placement of this saw on this miter station? Pull the entire miter station forward, away from the wall and push the saw back. On the plus side, this involves no extra work. On the down side, this solution leaves a gap between the countertop and the wall, allowing dust to fall behind the cabinet. Repeat #1, except add a 3" backer board to the entire countertop (left, right and center) to fill the gap between the wall and the cabinet. On the plus side, this provides a block for dust falling behind the cabinet. On the down side, it's more work and the cabinet doesn't sit flush against the wall (which kind of looks nice). Do nothing. Only 3" of potential cut is left unsupported. Looking at the completed projects on the Guild (of which 2 use the Kapex), this seems to be the option of choice. Do something else that I haven't thought of or I'm completely wrong / have made a mistake in the build/dimensions, etc. I'm willing to admit to wrongdoing. Side Note: The completed pictures appear to show the countertop edge banding (3/4") continuing around the back of the countertop. I haven't added this yet and it doesn't appear to be a part of the original design plan.
  8. I'm going to say it - I'm not a fan of the Greene & Greene style. I see it a lot on the WWG (who I love) so I tried to get into it. I bought a large hardcover book showing their history and works. Still couldn't dig it. I know and accept that this makes me a bad person. But I just saw this on the site this AM: WOW! That's a work of art. I might have to buy a project, for the first time, not with the intention of making it but rather to just watch the process. This piece looks complicated and amazing.
  9. How can we find the YouTube channel? I have the same machine and would like to see what you've done with it. Thank you.
  10. What kind of lighting do you use in your shop? I have 2 4-tube fluorescent fixtures in a 3-car garage. I'm thinking of replacing those 2 fixtures with 6 LED fixtures for better light. Advice is appreciated from anyone who has already researched and tackled this issue. The shop improvement project marches on.
  11. Agreed - but "on here" does not represent "out there". Look at the price of tools on Ebay. You used to be able to pick up fixer-upers for very little. Now they're sought after "collectibles". Guys are buying, refurbishing and reselling old tools like never before. And the quality of the woods available online is amazing. Pictures abound. Everything that was once rare is now commonplace. Not to say that this is a bad thing. I don't disrespect anyone for their passion or drive to turn a hobby into a business. Some of these woods are to die for. Some of these restored antique tools are so inviting. To think that you are producing silky smooth shavings with a plane that was used for generations is really cool. But, alas, I suck at hand planes and struggle with quality from Lie-Nielsen. I really owe Thomas Lie-Nielsen an apology.
  12. At some basic level, I would suspect that most of us are guilty of all 3.
  13. Great replies - thank you for the feedback and ideas. I had not thought about the darkness aspect. I have been thinking about upgrading my lighting as well. I have two 48" 4 tube fluorescent lights on the ceiling. Maybe replace these 2 fixtures with 4 LED fixtures for more light and coverage.
  14. After being involved in numerous woodworking groups, I have come to a realization. Woodworkers can often be divided into 3 categories: Woodworkers - these people work the craft and complete projects Wood Hoarders - collect wood but rarely do any woodworking projects Tool Collectors - collect tools but rarely do any woodworking projects People seem to be divided pretty evenly in these camps - a third in each. I have received the most beautiful and needed wood from people in the second group. I have been on fascinating shop tours of people in the third group. Nothing wrong with any of them. Some of the most matchy-matchy woodworkers might secretly be type 3 folks (the ultimate of which are the antique tool collectors).
  15. I covered most of my shop walls this past week with 3/4" OSB. It's sanded and finished out fairly nicely (it is OSB after all, so let's not consider this fine woodworking). My question is should I finish the walls with something? Polyurethane? Or keep it raw? The polyurethane might give some protection from moisture and be easier to wipe clean. If left raw, I could always give it a light sanding if needed. The "shop" in question is a 3-car garage, used to park a car and not climate controlled. What do you think? Leave raw? Finish? And if finishing, with what product? Thank you
  16. Easy with the saw there Tiger! I'd like to keep both of my eyes!
  17. I took some classes from a guy named Frank Strazza: He is better than I ever will be (he works at this craft full time - I just make pretend on evenings and weekends). Frank used a specialized marking knife which produced really fine cut lines and exact work. The knife was easily sharpened and maintained and required very little fuss and fiddling. After learning his methods, I adopted the same marking knife and it easily created the fine lines and detail that allowed me to create fine work. This knife can be purchased in orange and blue stores that you will find around your town.
  18. +1 I bought a pair of these while making my Guild Split Top Roubo. Take some rough sand paper and twist them around a few times. After that, they bound well in the bench top. Never had a problem with them. Made in the USA. Enough said.
  19. I have a couple of extra dollars every now and then, and I like supporting people like Spagnuolo or Katz-Moses. I like that they're here and that they're continuing to support a craft that I love. We live in a mass produced world and these people are keeping the flame light. This jig just so happened to work extremely well.
  20. Trolling is perfectly acceptable - there's no shame at all. I appreciate the background info. If I find a cheap top of the line Leigh jig, I'm buying it for sure. I'll spend a weekend setting it up with 2 routers that get set for that purpose and are never used for anything else. That's a really cool piece of hardware. I signed up for the Spagnuolo miter stand project and I am curious how he makes the drawers. We'll get there when we get there. Right now, I am concentrating on cleaning up my garage and gaining space for making projects. I recently combined my 2 cars down to 1 which saves a ton of space.
  21. No child labor laws were broken in the completion of this project.
  22. Teaching the next generation of woodworkers to source materials, use tools and make useful things. I had some wasted space between two garage doors. We made a small shelf unit to fit between the doors. We were able to place all of my garage products on this shelf in an organized manner. She became familiar with project layout, woodworking concepts and the use of tools. No longer scarred of using machinery. So much for my "toxic masculinity".
  23. I have nothing against a dovetail jig. In fact, I have looked at the Leigh jigs quite a few times. They're some slick gear. For me, that's in the same category as the Festool Domino. (1) I really want it, (2) expensive and (3) I don't do the kind of work where I would use it that much. But #1 is certainly strong and often wins out over #2 and #3. Getting back to the gap at the back (see picture), I think that it was caused by the chisel getting pushed backwards into the board while I was chopping the waste. This was greatly reduced at times using different techniques. In the future, I might try clamping a substantial straight object up to the knife line so that this cannot happen. I tried to take off material in tiny increments but that hard maple is a beast. In any case, I would recommend this jig if you have a few dovetails to do. I found (and used) a good Chris Schwartz YouTube video on how to use dividers to set out the tails and pins. In the future, I would go with smaller pins, just because I like them. Another nice aspect of using a jig like this is that it allows an almost infinite layout possibility for the work. It really looks hand made.
  24. There are no gaps at all between the pins and tails, which is the main area in which a jig like this helps. One of the joints was a little too tight and the wood split slightly (nothing major). Next time I will spend more time finessing the joints. The fit was really tight. I kept the cuts in the waste. I had not used the rabbet method before and it worked really well (though I used a dado stack in the table saw). I would definitely rabbet again. The biggest problem, which is a little hard to see, is that there are some unacceptable gaps where the tails fit into the pin board (between the two). I'm not sure why this happened. In the future, I will research this issue and try to understand what I did wrong. I don't believe that the issue was with the jig. Next time I would also make the pins narrower - it's just aesthetics; I like small pins. I don't cut dovetails very often at all. I find them beautiful and I like to incorporate them into my work. For this reason, a jig works really well for me and I imagine that I will keep using it.
  25. Been cleaning up the garage lately, getting out of a funk and back into woodworking. Do you find that you are happier when you're building and creating things? Sometimes I need to remind myself of that. Awhile back, I bought a dovetail jig from this Katz-Moses cat. Link to the jig: I wish that I was better at hand tools. I don't spend enough time with them and have them tuned exactly right - though I do have decent stuff. I pulled out the hand tools and the new Katz-Moses jig and started at it. I'm OK at dovetails, though I haven't done any in a couple of years. I always use a jig (thus the quotes - "hand-cut"). I have the Lee Valley (Veritas?) magnetic jig. It's OK. I had some hard maple left over from another project. Hard maple isn't very forgiving. A softer wood that compresses more is easier to work with. I needed a small shelf to place a sound bar over some electronic components in my TV cabinet. Here are the results: YouTube: