Steve Edgar

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About Steve Edgar

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Lathe turning and general woodworking, mainly sawdust creation.

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  1. Update to the cordless drill rack. Here’s how it turned out; reminds me of the Atlantic coast submarine pens on the west coast of France.......
  2. I have mostly Freud bits. The containers they come in are large and take up a lot of space. The bits are also well ensconced in the containers; I often need to use a heavy leather glove to safely remove the bits. I have explored another system, but the outline on the container that describes what cut the bit does is a help to my senility.......
  3. I sized my friends largest drill and am getting him to return today with most of his collection. The lowers are only pushed into place. Looks like you have your work cut out for you when retrieving one of your units...
  4. McGyver never ripped a 3/4” plywood sheet, even with a piece of string, a knitting needle and a stick of Juicy-Fruit.........at night on the side of a mountain during a blizzard......
  5. Thanks for the replies. COOP: I needed help to rip the 4X8 piece of plywood. We ripped it into 4-5 pieces first and then I worked solo. Even with three bodies, it’s a chore to rip a stock sheet of plywood. Thanks for the compliment! WTNH: I used a scrap from the original cut I ended up chiseling the short part of the 90 degrees and it probably won’t show; I just thought that i I had outsmarted the gremlins
  6. Nothing that fancy. Cut the two boards to width and then cut the long dado, so there would be some relief for the router bit in the perpendicular cuts.
  7. A friend asked me to make him a storage unit for his cordless drivers and batteries. I cobbled together a plan from a few internet videos. This is what I came up with. I laid out the dados by clamping the two boards to the table and cut the slots all at once. Whenever I had to move the clamps, I inserted a scrap piece of plywood in the dados between both parts. After all the slots were cut, there were about half that needed a little chisel work. What did I mess up?
  8. Thanks guys, kinda what I thought.......
  9. Will Titebond work after staining the wood. It’s box store pine, tia.
  10. I went back to the shop this morning and was able to work out the proper (close enough) solution. I have an inexpensive set of digital calipers and after a little more experimenting I added the proper amount of shims. Last year (same jig) the shim required for snug box joints was .4mm. This year a .5mm shim gets it done. Another question for the box joint crowd. How often do you change the sacrificial fence if you are cutting multiple joints. Is it safe to use only the first cut as long as the height doesn’t change? Do you advance the sacrificial fence with the work piece? Here’s how they came out in some cherry scraps..... The black is in the grain!
  11. I just spent an afternoon in the shop and it was good and bad. Good to get in the shop (with heat, we were in the high 20’s today), bad in that I was going to make some box joint with a homemade jig. I made the jig a few years ago and marked the shim needed to make snug joints. Well it worked the last time I used it. I set the Freud dado stack with the requires chippers and blades and the recorded shim. The shim marked was a 4mm. The joints were much too loose. Anyhow, long and the short, the last result i came up with after adding and subtracting shims was sockets at .5” and pins at .010” larger. I think I am saying that’s right, the pins were too fat for the sockets. I quit for the day as football is coming on and the bourbon was calling. My question is, when I next attack this project, do I add shims or subtract shims? I have checked the home built jig and the pin is exactly .5” and the offset from the saw slot is exactly .5”. Ideas? Happy New Year, I’ve been awol for a while.....
  12. Thank you for the replies, project goes on the shelf for a while.
  13. I just used a few coats of tung oil on a small project. I used 0000 steel wool before the third application. Is there a top coat that will be compatible with the tung oil. I’m thinking wax maybe instead of a poly. I always get runs or other imperfections that take a long time to rectify. There doesn’t seem to be a great difference between the first coat of oil and the third. Will tung continue to shade or is there a point where it is what it is?
  14. My Festool coupon expires with calendar year 2017. Which Festool router is the best overall choice? Thanks.
  15. I'm using 3/4"-1" stock. The last one I cut, I had to finagle the miters and strap the box with way too much pressure. Just decorative boxes... Most miter sleds that I've seen keep the table saw blade at 90 degrees, limiting the height that the miter angle can be to the maximum blade height. Do you have a picture of a miter sled where a 4" piece is fed flat through an angle cut?