JerseyG1960

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About JerseyG1960

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Little Egg Harbor
  • Woodworking Interests
    Decoy Carving. Just getting more into woodworking.
  1. I use Titebond ll to join the two-piece hollow bodies, as well as the head/body joint, on working duck decoys made from Atlantic white cedar. While some end up on someone's shelf, my own have sat in the bay for countless hours and the glue joints have never failed. I've never treated the mating surfaces before gluing.
  2. I ran a tree service many years ago and we looked into getting something for the nicer trunks we dropped, or at least attempted to not see good sawlogs cut up for firewood. None of the sawmills we spoke to had any interest in logs from trees growing in the suburbs or on roadsides, due to the chance of ruining their mill blades on various metal objects that the tree might have grown around. That was over 30 years ago and metal detecting technology is more reliable than back then, so I don't know if that's the issue it once was. As far as the reasons the trees went "dormant" (AKA dead!), it sound like what you describe. Raising, lowering or compacting the grade around the tree (as far out as the drip line of the canopy) can kill parts or all of the tree.
  3. I took a fairly crude approach to chip collection on my new 735 but it's worked so far. I picked up an expandable metal clothes drier vent hose at Loews that fit over the exhaust port. I clamped one end to the port with one of the hose clamps that came with the hose and lashed a pillow case to the other end with thin rope (could empty bags quicker than with another hose clamp that way). The machine seems to not be spitting out dust in addition to the chips. At least I'm not finding any dust settling on surfaces in the vicinity of the bag. I've only been planing boards for smaller projects so far and don't have to empty pillow cases more than once per job, but I can see this not being the best approach on bigger projects.
  4. Great project and adorable daughter. Makes me miss mine being that age. She's a young adult now and the stuff acid-blocker prescriptions are made of.
  5. I also just noticed this was addressed in several posts in a thread down the list a little.
  6. Thanks! That's what I was hoping to hear. Although I haven't posted in some time I have monitored the forum pretty often and the consistent rave reviews here on the 735 played no small part in my selection.
  7. Hi all. I haven't posted in along time, as life took me away from woodworking for a bit. I'm attempting to get back into it with both feet though. I just picked up a 735 planer and have a question regarding the accessory folding tables. After mounting the unit to the stand I built, I put a straightedge across the tables, through the machine, and both outward ends were a bit higher than the unit's tray. I can see the vertical screw slots on the table brackets allowing adjustment, which I was about do do, then wondered if the tables are supposed to be aligned that way. This is my fist planer but I have read about tilting the boards up slightly as you feed then and doing the same as they exit the unit to eliminate snipe. Is this slightly-off table alignment intentionally meant to do that automatically?
  8. Those nuts are walnuts but I agree with the others who have said the bark is not Black Walnut bark. It looks like English Walnut. It's not native but many yard trees are not.
  9. I'm a fan of rustic furniture and things like industrial carts being restored as furniture, and these boards could very well be useful in that regard. But as others have said, as a self-confessed novice, which I'm not far from myself, the condition you describe the boards to be in will most likely just frustrate you and might be best put aside for a later project. The simple, functional table you describe will come out better with other inexpensive wood you can get for this project that doesn't come with so many issues. Master the fundamentals with decent wood and tackle things like this later on. Good luck!
  10. I visited the Warther Cutlery factory and museum in Ohio a few years ago. They are a family-run operation and although I didn't see what you were looking for on their website, a smaller operation like theirs might be able to accomodate your request. I bought a woodcarving knife while there but they carry a full line of kitchen kives as well.
  11. I don't think cedar. Cedar bark is brownish and has stringy peels, up and down the trunk. I've seen enough of it after 30 years of carving decoys from white cedar I've cut myself in local swamps.The bark doesn't look like ash to me. Ash has a uniform pattern of interlocking ridges, similar to Norway Maple. The end grain of the wood has large pores in the springwood, like oak, but without oak's wide rays The bark looks more like maple to me. If the pores on the end grain are invisible to the naked eye, that's a good possibility.
  12. I picked up a Buffalo Forge drill press on CL not long ago that has worked very well for me. I'm sure it's well over 50 years old but was well cared for and didn't need anything other than a new belt. It is a beast that was obviously made to last. It may very well outlast a new one bought today. I see few advantages a new DP would have over this one, for me at least.
  13. 7% sales tax here, but the Woodcraft store I use is just across the river in Delaware, just over an hour away. No sales tax, no shipping!. I just wait till I have a decent enough list to justify the gas (or for a nice sale )
  14. We sent a bunch of holly trees that were knocked down by winds during Sandy through a large chipper at work. If only I knew.........
  15. Roughly 90 miles. I didn't keep track of the time. I found it worth the drive though and plan on going next time around.