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About miranthis

  • Birthday March 30

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  • Location
    Shawnee, KS (KC Metro)
  • Woodworking Interests
    Boxes, gadgets, planes and tools.

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  1. Title says it. I made an Eagle Scout plaque for the troop. I would like to mount our unit patch and an eagle badge on the plaque. I am thinking, since the patche are plastic backed i could just use titebond and weigh them down until dry. What do you guys think? Would like to make it as permanent and I can but not discolor the badge. I have not done the top coat yet, but have Arm-r-seal on hand (gloss and satin) and rattle can lacquer. I usualy do ARS, but is one better for adhesion than the others? Ideas? I searched, the net and here, and am not finding a thread on it. Thanks in advance! Jeff-in-KC
  2. A second (or third) on the Fascap lefty/righty. I use the 16 foot model. I like the older stanley lever locks for my outside work in 25 or 30 ft length, but the blade marking changed on those and I don't care for them as much anymore. Jeff in KC
  3. Just finished my version of the flip top table - i retro fitted a single machine stand I got with my planer to be a flip top. 12.5 in Delta planer on one side, miter saw on the other. Much thanks to my 13 year old son for the help. I even kept my granddad's battleship grey shop furniture color scheme. Jeff in KC
  4. I used ARS on a purpleheart box I made for my son in 2013 and it is out of sunlight....so far still bright. Jeff In KC
  5. That is why (the connection to TTI and Rigid etc.) that the batteries on my ryobi stuff are so much greater than the crap B&D ones I had for years. Jeff
  6. I have had B&D power stuff and its all been replaced by Ryobi, quickly as it just did not last. I'd say ryobi and B&D need to be switched on that chart of yours. Also, Ryobi made the 1967 Craftsman router my granddad bought and still use in my router table. Jeff in KC
  7. Thanks guys. the Woodworking Show will be here on the 20th so I will stock up on some fittings and adapters at Peachtree. My HD and Lowes had fernco pvc fittings, but not the 2 inch socket to pipe ones,just the straight 2 inch to 2 inch. In some of the bigger sizes they had socket to pipe. I got mine at an estate sale, loose, and it may be an off brand as it has NO taper to the ports and also no stickers or anything on it. Now that i get to looking at it, it has no markings of any kind on it. It was just lying in a box of miscellaneous stuff they were going to trash. I ended up using white duct tape and adding layers to the ports until the 2.5 to 2.25 tapered Rockler fittings were a snug fit on the fittings. All is good now I suppose, I just need to make a cart to mount both the Mini Cyclone and the "Dust Deputy" in series and figure out how I will use/connect the various hoses. the screw end stuff looks like a winner on that front. The big junk should drop in the mini-cyclone and the little stuff in the Dust deputy. With just the Mini-Cyclone i get far too much dust in the Rigid filter. In looking more closely at the picture of gee-dub's DD i must have an off brand, cause where his spins counter clockwise, the one I got spins the dust clockwise and it is a more opaque white. Jeff n KC
  8. Got a dust deputy at an estate sale. No hoses or fittings. I have a rigid shop vac. I already use the Peachtree Dust collector. I have some new 2.5 inch dc hose and a pair of 2.5 to 2.25 inch converters from rockler. I am going to use the DD between the existing DC and the Rigid Shop vac. So, i have a horrible mix of connector sizes. Ifound solutions for the DC set up, but now I need to work with the DD fittings. The DD 1.965 IN/ 2.145 OUT. The hose I am using is 2.5 inch dust collecton hose. I can use a Rockler 2.5 to 2.25 converter to get it down to a difference between 2.145 outside on teh DD and then 2.275 on the inside. Is there any avalable fitting, pvc or otherwise that can help me bridge the gap? I suppose I could just wrap it in electrical tape until it is a snug fit. Is that what everyone does. I already searched the forum, and my google-fu is not strong on this. I also checked the Oneida site and they do not appear to sell the hose or fittings that comes with the kit, unless you buy the kit. Jeff in KC
  9. It looks like the light wood (both the birdseye maple veneer AND the carcass), was once darker on all three pieces. There was once a nightstand as well, but that did not survive into the 1940's ( :-( ). This was one of two sets of bedroom furniture my Granddad and Grandma had. I remember it from my earliest days, the early 1970's. :-) Every time i see it i remember my Granddad and Grandma Deane. The other piece that they had was a bow front walnut set with cabriolet legs....wish I had that too. Anyway, I am not going to refinish it entirely at this point. The headboard still has the holster wear on the left side where Granddad hung his Beretta 1935 he got at Western Auto as War surplus. We still use it as our bedroom set, except for the headboard that has been in storage. If it does prove to be a poly, I suspect i will probably see if I can address the runs and nibs without changing the character of the piece. If I can I will do that and maybe add a new top coat. Will keep everyone posted once I test for lacquer and then poly. On another note, I still have the broken pulls and at least one that came from the lost nightstand. Need to see how I can repair/replace those. Does anyone recognize this style? I really love the sunbursts and birds eye and the best part is actually a 4 panel book matched veneer on the bottom drawer front of the chest of drawers. I will take a pic of it. Thanks for the input; I am sure I will have more questions as I work this up. Jeff-in-KC
  10. Thanks. Its age puts it past the "hand built" era but not so far in to the mass manufacture that the veneer on the three pieces I have, chest of drawers, dresser and headboard, got too thin. I only want to clean it up the finish and then its being used. The pieces *may* have been refinished before, I checked with the DNA drop and it did not do anything to the finish, after the mineral spirits pulled the wax off. So, i need to get some lacquer thinner to test for that. I attached some pics, of the three pieces. The drawers and dresser have been cleaned up and used for years, the headboard has been stored. Don't want to refinish as the three pieces match and I like that the yellowing matches. Anyway, you can see some runs and such in the finish and I'd love to polich those down a bit if I can do it without screwing it up. Still, step one is find out what finish I am looking at.
  11. I was hoping it was something like that, and that I had not ruined something.. Once I wiped the 'old wax dust" off it was noticeably duller, but I got a lot of dirt off. So, once i have all the wax and dirt off, i should check for the underlying finish. What are my choices for a new top coat? Obviously I could do a paste wax and buff, but it is a headboard, so I'd like something durable. I will check back with you once I figure out if its a shellac or a varnish and see what best option I have. Jeff-in-KC
  12. I am cleaning up an old veneer headboard (from 1920's or 30's). I wiped it down with a little Mineral Spirits to clean it up (it was dusty and had stuff on it from years of use and then storage) and evaluate the existing finish and the surface powdered. I am wondering if it was a wax, but it did wipe off and the under finish is still there. I need to make sure it is clean and then I need to make it ready to mount to the bed. Any idea what could have powdered? Jeff-in-kc
  13. I will be using a trim router and I have done irregular shapes freehand, but thought a pattern bit would work better for a regular shape. I have made mortise templates, just not something round. Whatever solution I come up with will need to be non-maring so probably a clamp on deal. Measured the larger of the two patches I need to recess for and it is 3 & 7/8 inch across. Appreciate the input.
  14. Just need to make a recess for a scout patch in a plaque, probably 1/8 inch into the board. I've done this with Forstner bits for challenge coins, but this is substantially larger for a round position patch and also a larger troop neckerchief patch. Also, I'd like to learn the trick to making the pattern out of MDF so I can also to ovals, pie slice shapes etc. and not just buy multiple $30+ bits I may only use once. Thanks though. Jeff-in-kc
  15. I need to make a shallow 3 inch round hole in a board and I thought about using a router with a pattern bit. But, how do I make the perfect circle pattern? I can make square and rectangular patterns all day, but I need the circle to be perfect. most of the web examples show a jig for cutting larger circles, say 6 inch or larger. TIA, Jeff-in-KC