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Everything posted by miranthis

  1. Title says it. I made an Eagle Scout plaque for the troop. I would like to mount our unit patch and an eagle badge on the plaque. I am thinking, since the patche are plastic backed i could just use titebond and weigh them down until dry. What do you guys think? Would like to make it as permanent and I can but not discolor the badge. I have not done the top coat yet, but have Arm-r-seal on hand (gloss and satin) and rattle can lacquer. I usualy do ARS, but is one better for adhesion than the others? Ideas? I searched, the net and here, and am not finding a thread on it. Thanks in advance! Jeff-in-KC
  2. A second (or third) on the Fascap lefty/righty. I use the 16 foot model. I like the older stanley lever locks for my outside work in 25 or 30 ft length, but the blade marking changed on those and I don't care for them as much anymore. Jeff in KC
  3. Just finished my version of the flip top table - i retro fitted a single machine stand I got with my planer to be a flip top. 12.5 in Delta planer on one side, miter saw on the other. Much thanks to my 13 year old son for the help. I even kept my granddad's battleship grey shop furniture color scheme. Jeff in KC
  4. I used ARS on a purpleheart box I made for my son in 2013 and it is out of sunlight....so far still bright. Jeff In KC
  5. That is why (the connection to TTI and Rigid etc.) that the batteries on my ryobi stuff are so much greater than the crap B&D ones I had for years. Jeff
  6. I have had B&D power stuff and its all been replaced by Ryobi, quickly as it just did not last. I'd say ryobi and B&D need to be switched on that chart of yours. Also, Ryobi made the 1967 Craftsman router my granddad bought and still use in my router table. Jeff in KC
  7. Thanks guys. the Woodworking Show will be here on the 20th so I will stock up on some fittings and adapters at Peachtree. My HD and Lowes had fernco pvc fittings, but not the 2 inch socket to pipe ones,just the straight 2 inch to 2 inch. In some of the bigger sizes they had socket to pipe. I got mine at an estate sale, loose, and it may be an off brand as it has NO taper to the ports and also no stickers or anything on it. Now that i get to looking at it, it has no markings of any kind on it. It was just lying in a box of miscellaneous stuff they were going to trash. I ended up using white duct tape and adding layers to the ports until the 2.5 to 2.25 tapered Rockler fittings were a snug fit on the fittings. All is good now I suppose, I just need to make a cart to mount both the Mini Cyclone and the "Dust Deputy" in series and figure out how I will use/connect the various hoses. the screw end stuff looks like a winner on that front. The big junk should drop in the mini-cyclone and the little stuff in the Dust deputy. With just the Mini-Cyclone i get far too much dust in the Rigid filter. In looking more closely at the picture of gee-dub's DD i must have an off brand, cause where his spins counter clockwise, the one I got spins the dust clockwise and it is a more opaque white. Jeff n KC
  8. Got a dust deputy at an estate sale. No hoses or fittings. I have a rigid shop vac. I already use the Peachtree Dust collector. I have some new 2.5 inch dc hose and a pair of 2.5 to 2.25 inch converters from rockler. I am going to use the DD between the existing DC and the Rigid Shop vac. So, i have a horrible mix of connector sizes. Ifound solutions for the DC set up, but now I need to work with the DD fittings. The DD 1.965 IN/ 2.145 OUT. The hose I am using is 2.5 inch dust collecton hose. I can use a Rockler 2.5 to 2.25 converter to get it down to a difference between 2.145 outside on teh DD and then 2.275 on the inside. Is there any avalable fitting, pvc or otherwise that can help me bridge the gap? I suppose I could just wrap it in electrical tape until it is a snug fit. Is that what everyone does. I already searched the forum, and my google-fu is not strong on this. I also checked the Oneida site and they do not appear to sell the hose or fittings that comes with the kit, unless you buy the kit. Jeff in KC
  9. It looks like the light wood (both the birdseye maple veneer AND the carcass), was once darker on all three pieces. There was once a nightstand as well, but that did not survive into the 1940's ( :-( ). This was one of two sets of bedroom furniture my Granddad and Grandma had. I remember it from my earliest days, the early 1970's. :-) Every time i see it i remember my Granddad and Grandma Deane. The other piece that they had was a bow front walnut set with cabriolet legs....wish I had that too. Anyway, I am not going to refinish it entirely at this point. The headboard still has the holster wear on the left side where Granddad hung his Beretta 1935 he got at Western Auto as War surplus. We still use it as our bedroom set, except for the headboard that has been in storage. If it does prove to be a poly, I suspect i will probably see if I can address the runs and nibs without changing the character of the piece. If I can I will do that and maybe add a new top coat. Will keep everyone posted once I test for lacquer and then poly. On another note, I still have the broken pulls and at least one that came from the lost nightstand. Need to see how I can repair/replace those. Does anyone recognize this style? I really love the sunbursts and birds eye and the best part is actually a 4 panel book matched veneer on the bottom drawer front of the chest of drawers. I will take a pic of it. Thanks for the input; I am sure I will have more questions as I work this up. Jeff-in-KC
  10. Thanks. Its age puts it past the "hand built" era but not so far in to the mass manufacture that the veneer on the three pieces I have, chest of drawers, dresser and headboard, got too thin. I only want to clean it up the finish and then its being used. The pieces *may* have been refinished before, I checked with the DNA drop and it did not do anything to the finish, after the mineral spirits pulled the wax off. So, i need to get some lacquer thinner to test for that. I attached some pics, of the three pieces. The drawers and dresser have been cleaned up and used for years, the headboard has been stored. Don't want to refinish as the three pieces match and I like that the yellowing matches. Anyway, you can see some runs and such in the finish and I'd love to polich those down a bit if I can do it without screwing it up. Still, step one is find out what finish I am looking at.
  11. I was hoping it was something like that, and that I had not ruined something.. Once I wiped the 'old wax dust" off it was noticeably duller, but I got a lot of dirt off. So, once i have all the wax and dirt off, i should check for the underlying finish. What are my choices for a new top coat? Obviously I could do a paste wax and buff, but it is a headboard, so I'd like something durable. I will check back with you once I figure out if its a shellac or a varnish and see what best option I have. Jeff-in-KC
  12. I am cleaning up an old veneer headboard (from 1920's or 30's). I wiped it down with a little Mineral Spirits to clean it up (it was dusty and had stuff on it from years of use and then storage) and evaluate the existing finish and the surface powdered. I am wondering if it was a wax, but it did wipe off and the under finish is still there. I need to make sure it is clean and then I need to make it ready to mount to the bed. Any idea what could have powdered? Jeff-in-kc
  13. I will be using a trim router and I have done irregular shapes freehand, but thought a pattern bit would work better for a regular shape. I have made mortise templates, just not something round. Whatever solution I come up with will need to be non-maring so probably a clamp on deal. Measured the larger of the two patches I need to recess for and it is 3 & 7/8 inch across. Appreciate the input.
  14. Just need to make a recess for a scout patch in a plaque, probably 1/8 inch into the board. I've done this with Forstner bits for challenge coins, but this is substantially larger for a round position patch and also a larger troop neckerchief patch. Also, I'd like to learn the trick to making the pattern out of MDF so I can also to ovals, pie slice shapes etc. and not just buy multiple $30+ bits I may only use once. Thanks though. Jeff-in-kc
  15. I need to make a shallow 3 inch round hole in a board and I thought about using a router with a pattern bit. But, how do I make the perfect circle pattern? I can make square and rectangular patterns all day, but I need the circle to be perfect. most of the web examples show a jig for cutting larger circles, say 6 inch or larger. TIA, Jeff-in-KC
  16. I have my granddad's 113.29902 (1967 vintage) and put the PALS on it last year. My kit came with both the hex nut you show and a nylon lock hex nut that follows it on the stud. With that nylon lock nut installed I had to heavily modify the bracket for the rip fence to allow it to bevel all the way to 45 degrees because the rip fence bracket hit the lower lock nut at about 42 degrees. Bracket is aluminum, so between the 1 inch belt sander and then my dremel I was able to make it clear out to a little over 45 degrees.. Now it works very well and i am perfectly aligned....:-) Jeff in KC
  17. After trying my 'hand' at the hand flattening, I marked up the sides with pencil marks and jointed the main face and the bottom edge. Then ran them SLOWLY through the planer (small passes, not taking much at all). I have an older Delta tp305 and snipe is a bugaboo I just can't get eliminated. I noticed that on both the jointing and planing it was taking the pencil marks off pretty evenly, so i must not have done that bad by hand. I eliminated the snipe with a few strokes of the hand plane. It looks good. Spent the next little bit of time fitting the rails into my miter slots. One more after work night and I will get the bed of the sled ready. I am getting closer...:-) Jeff in KC
  18. Yeah, you are right. I actually took a stab at them with the hand planes for a while tonight and I am pretty pleased. But in my application I will be finishing them on the jointer and thickness planer tomorrow and then cutting to final size. For what I am using it for it needs to be as precise as I can muster. Sure did feel good to go at the glued up board with the 6, 5 and 4 Stanleys..... Jeff in KC
  19. I am redoing my crosscut sled. Using the supersled plans as a base. For the rear fence I have used red oak, 3/4 inch. I cut to rough length, jointed one face and one edge of each of the two boards. I matched the boards along the jointed edge and glued them jointed face to jointed face. Once it is dry, i have the new bottom edge that is made up of the two jointed edges, and this will register against the top of the base. At this point, I should joint a face of the new board, which is what the work will ride against. Then joint the edge that will register against the base, thus making sure I have a right angle there. I will be mounting a rail in the top edge, so I know I need to square the top edge with the jointed bottom edge in the thickness planer. Do I need to finish the 'extra' opposite face or should I ignore it? Jeff in KC
  20. Well, because that was what the plan called for on the three penny crosscut sled (not all sleds use top mounted fences). http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/table-saws/how-to-build-the-three-penny-crosscut-sled/view-all#step1 You use the front edge of the TS top and your TS Fence as your straight edges when you drop the deck on the runners. The 3/4 hardwood (white oak) fence then is screwed into the edge of the 3/4 plywood. This squares the fence to the miter slots and the blade, as I had already squared the blade to the miter slots with my A-Line it kit). I made mine as wide as my table and wings and put fences on both sides (front and back) (but it was not that deep). Then, when you make your initial cut the cut slot is square with your miter slots and thus square with your front edge of the table. It has made hundreds of square cuts, but once the lamination started to let go it needs to be replaced. Its been two years since I made it. I am probably going to make something similar, using a 3/4 top, but will incorporate some t-track and such so I can do angles and then some sort of fixture to do repeatable 45's. I will also probably make it deeper to accommodate cross cutting 1x12's and such. Jeff in KC
  21. I made the deck out of a single piece, with a hardwood front and back boards or fences - pretty standard design. I recently noticed that when I would slide a board along the hardwood fence it would catch at the cut. I checked with my straight edge and one side was a bit taller than the other, which was odd as they were one sheet until that first cut. I removed the screws that held the front and back fences and then noticed that one set of screw holes had developed a split. in the second picture in the upper right corner you can see one of the screw holes and the line through it. That is the split in the lamination and it carries on to the right a couple on inches to the edge of the sheet that rides next to the blade. As a result, the thickness of the one side was more than the other, non split, side. the difference was on the order of 0.010 or so, enough to catch a board edge. I also, with my straight edge, found that there were humps overlying the defect in the bottom pic. I used my plane to remove it, but after finding the split lamination I am just starting over with a new deck. Live and learn. I almost bought a 4x8 sheet of ok looking big box ply a few weeks back ($30 for 32 sq ft 4x8 as opposed to about $50 for a 25 sq ft 5x5 sheet).. Now, knowing what I know form dissecting this jig, I think I will only be able to use the better stuff even for shop jugs. Jeff in KC
  22. Made my crosscut jig a couple of years ago out of 3/4 big box store plywood. I noticed some problems with it suddenly and started investigating. I found voids, some long enough to see through, and separated lamination despite predrilling screw holes. I am now on hold at the shop until I can get over and buy a sheet of 3/4 baltic birch. Jeff in KC
  23. I got a Gizzly 22 inch G0537 Scroll Saw today for FREE from the guy at the new lumber yard I discovered. :-) He got it from a local farmer and it was just collecting dust. I got it home today and it is on a dewalt scroll saw bench. I looked it over and it is not much used. However, the bellows is dry rotted to nearly dust. I checked grizzly's web site and the bellows is discontinued. Anyone have a source for these? Now, I have not really needed a scroll saw, so I will either have to find a use for it or I suppose sell it. Jeff in KC
  24. I run an impact driver, drill/driver and sawzall from this line. I am a hobbyist, but use them for everything from automotive to framing to woodwork. The lithium batteries are holding up well. I used the drill/driver for my fence and later my new deck. Bought the impact driver when I did the deck and it rocks on outdoor carpentry. I also have a Milwaulkee M12 drill/driver and it is a great tool as well. I use the sawzall for tree trimming. It can drain a battery, but as long as you keep it freshly supplied it is great. I DO use the flashlight around the house and on camping trips. It is just convenient to be able to set it down and point it. The pros use other stuff, but I have more than gotten my money's worth out of the few I own. Jeff in KC
  25. Did NOT lose any fingers or shed any blood, but it was a crap day in the shop. :-) Nothing worked like I planned. Measurements were just not working out. Set ups were terrible. Router bits were dull. Crosscut sled is no longer flat. Found a wobble in my favorite table saw blade. I had been itching to get in the shop for the last month, and finally got out. All I had to do was make a simple shop cabinet to hang above the shop sink. I finally got the sides and 4 shelves cut, along with the dados for the shelves. Looks like complete crap, but it will work. Just one of those days, so I just gave up and will try it fresh tomorrow. :-) Ugh.... Jeff in KC