miranthis

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Everything posted by miranthis

  1. The acid bath (vinegar) works well for me for rust removal. Is it possible for it to be in the bath too long. I usually leave it submerged for a couple days, scrubbing it each night. The last plane I did came out pretty pitted and dull and every time I scrubbed it in the vinegar it had this thick black coating that I had to scrub off.....it is polishing up as I lap it, but it had a very rough texture to it on all the surfaces of all the metal parts. Can the vinegar bath hurt the metal? I always heard it just attacked the rust. Thanks! Jeff in KC
  2. I have a planer, but that works the long sides and I always have to use that to surface boards, so I did not mention it. I usually get my wood at the local Hardwoods store and they almost always have their stock S2SSLR (surfaced 2 sides, straight line ripped one edge).....I just thought, given my trouble with the abbreviations when I started that all the experienced folks already knew all this. :-) Anyway, the vexing part for me is what to do with a long board that has not had a Straight Line Ripped. If I understand your responses correctly I can do that with an mdf jig and my circular saw. Will give it a try...thanks. Jeff in KC
  3. I looked on their site, as i use their stop hinges, and I could find no locksets. Some of the resellers that have brusso also sell locks, but it does not look like they make them. The ones from rockler, lee valley and woodcraft all seem to be the same supplier. Jeff in KC
  4. Found a guy with the ash I need and some other good woods at really good prices, but he has it rough...he will plane it, but no SLR.....so the question is, How do I make that SLR myself. I have: Old table saw, well set up, but a Craftsman 10 in contractor saw from 1967. 6 inch craftsman jointer Can I do this? Jeff in KC
  5. Best friend is getting married and I want to make an anniversary box. I saw one years ago that had two locks, one for each spouse. I looked at full mortise chest locks on rockler and woodcraft and both have less than stellar remarks about quality. Anyone have a source for a full mortise lock that will reliably work in 3/4 stock? I suppose I could go surface mount if the 3/4 is too thin. Also, I don't have a cnc printer or CO2 laser set up to put images on a top. Is there somewhere on line that will take my image and burn/cut it into the top I supply. I can work wood, but I am not a carver...:-) Thanks in advance, Jeff in KC
  6. Having deposed and interviewed hundreds of orthopedic specialists in the last 18 years the thing they all say, and now many times require in order to treat, is to stop smoking if you are a smoker. Screws up blood supply to the hard to reach places and speeds up the natural desiccation of your discs. Think of them as the shock absorbers and when they dry out it just magnifies every other problem you have. Check in with your doc. You may just have over done it, but if you do have a problem you need to address it. Most low back problems do what they are going to do in about 6 weeks regardless of what you do, but keep active. what ever you do do not just lie around as that is bad as well. Good luck man. I know it sucks as my low back has been bad for years. Jeff in KC
  7. Just getting around to doing shelving. What brand of standards and shelves did you go with? I have been looking at the ones from woodcraft as they are much more robust than the ones at the 'big-orange' and 'big-blue' big box stores. Jeff in KC
  8. We have BigAssFans in our Scout Camp dining halls....distributor or some muckity muck in the company sent his kid to camp and saw how bad the ventilation was in late July in Mid MO and made the council a deal... put one in each of the three dining halls and such.....When they first put them in an turned them on they could suck the lettuce out of the salad bar.....had to be very careful with how high you turned them up... :-) We love them in the hot Ozark summer.....:-) I saw the LED's and they are still pricey, but probably really good if you can justify the cost. Jeff in KC
  9. I thought I had a line on a set of planer blades for my 12.5 inch Delta TP-305 (same as the PC305, using the 22-562 blades). These are the thin disposable 1/16 thick ones. Big Orange has them in their catalog and i had a gift card so I ordered them. When I picked them up at the Pro Counter I saw that they are sold by HD, but filled by Delta......I opened the package and sure enough, it was 13 inch new delta blades. The guy at the pro desk researched for me and found that their system is all FUBAR on the 'fulfilled by Delta" parts as when they tried to return them and credit me the computer said they did nto carry that item. :-(. Anyway, I am now without a set of blades. Anyone used the Woodriver ones that Woodcraft sells, or have a reliable source for them. The online folks like Holbren, etc. tell me that they cannot do the 1/16 thick ones.... In the alternative, anyone seen the Woodriver Spiral head planer in the last Woodcraft circular? Looks 'just like' my planer, just re-badged with 'Woodriver' and running the spiral cutter. I had planned to wait for a rigid 4331 to fit n my budget, but a spiral cutter-head is tempting for that price. Jeff in KC
  10. I use the same set up in my 3 car garage (except I used a regular cheapy pleated paper filter).... I was working on purpleheart and was amazed at the color in the filter after leaving it on for a few hours after I worked one night. I also started doing my ROS work with the fan on the bench top right next to the sanding. Helped cut down the dust a lot. Jeff in KC
  11. I finished the purpleheart and maple box I have been working on for my son. He got his eagle award in lat 2013 and we had a custom knife ordered, When it came in I had enough lead time to make a box for it. A dozen mid project design changes, several near mishaps with hinges and a lot of purpleheart splinters later....we have a box. :-) (I swear, every time I THINK about purpleheart a new splinter appears in my hand...:-) ) Jeff in KC.
  12. Mother in law is in town so the heat is cranked up and we have really low humidity in the house....I will move the finishing into the office downstairs to speed up the drying.....:-) I will post pics once I get it done. I really like how the finish pulled out the purple in the purpleheart and the tiger stripes in the maple after the dyeing. Jeff
  13. I just need to get the last coat ON it and dry tot he touch...the box is for my son and I can wait a few weeks for the final cure and denubbing. I just need it dry enough to do the presentation on Thursday. I am doing on more coat tonight and that may be the last on the inside and the trays, but will do a few more coats on the outside as time permitts with the 6 - 12 hour re-coat time. It will get no real wear, I just need it to build to an even semi-gloss sheen. I suppose I should have used High Perf, but I was going for the chatoyance of oil with the tiger maple. It worked and it is beautiful, but underestimating the number of coats of oil and a hinge screw repair put me several days behind. :-) Jeff
  14. I appreciate the replies, but apparently I did not adequately preface my initial post to give you guys the info you needed to understand where my question is coming from. I have read everything I can find from Marc and the rest of the net including watching innumerable videos and listening to the podcast(s) and making test builds before starting the final project. Mid finishing I thought I might try to poll the collective wisdom here from folks like me that have done it and are not pros . I appreciate the reference to something I can buy and have shipped, but I had those 3 questions on a project that is due for delivery this week. I may buy the DVD at some point (one of the things on my x-mas list), but I need timely information, not a sales pitch, with all due respect. I have answers to 1 and 3, but the end user experience I am looking for in #2 is still not at the level that I feel comfortable I have enough information. I get the range of coats, but as I wait to go home from work and put on coat #2 I still am not confident that the first coat was put on ok. It just seemed to soak in a lot. Is that typical, given the wood and such? Thanks, Jeff in KC
  15. I am at the finishing stage on a presentation box. First coat was zinsser sealcoat with some dye followed by a good 320 sanding to pop some tiger maple grain. (TWW Grain Popping from episode 32 of the webseries) I then wiped everything down with a rag and a little DNA to get teh sanding residue eliminated and let it dry. Then applied first light coat of Arm-r-seal semi-gloss with a folded t-shirt. I used Marc's wipe on/no wipe off technique and it all soaked in to both the purpleheart and the tiger maple. This morning (8 or so hours after application) I used a grey scotchcbrite pad (the ones from Woodcraft) to rub it out and it dulled it considerably with residue. I then wiped it down with a clean t shirt to rid of the sanding residue and the color and sheen perked up a lot. I will apply coat 2 tonight. My questions are these - 1) after I do the buffing/scotch brite rub down what is the best thing to remove the sanding residue? Just a t shirt, or should I wet/dampen it with something like DNA or Mineral Spirits. 2) I read that the first coat of Arm-r-seal can look a little rough as it penetrates the grain, but how many coats until I can expect a finished look? 3) On the last coat do I just leave it, or do I let it dry and then buff it with the white scotchbrite pad and wipe it down? Thanks in a advance, Attached is a pic of the box before I started the finish. Jeff in KC