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About Snibley

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 01/13/1964

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Frankford,Ontario, Canada
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, toys, refinishing,

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  1. To be honest I did go to the vintage machinery and DLL that manual I didn't find it too helpful, but I will be going back to the blackboard on it. I will check this other site out as well. I have used jointers but in a controlled setting (paid wood shops where I did not need to worry about calibration and of course very new compared to this 1950,s jointer). What i did basically was this, if anyone sees something I'm doing wrong please let me know. I basically set a 4ft square along the beds so they align and raised the knives so they just surpassed the outfeed... but I was
  2. Hi All I have recently bought a vintage Beaver 3800 jointer. I have tried to calibrate this machine using the traditonal way (much like Marc's video) but I cannot seem to get it to joint squarely..obviously, I am doing something wrong but with out a manual, or a site to help me in my ediucation on this machine I am pretty much dead in the water...does anyone know how to calibrate or know where I could read up on how to calibrate this jointer?
  3. Thanks guys, I was hoping to avoid what I knew had to happen...sand it away but your comments helped me , I sanded the sealer away and re-stained. Thanks for the reality check.
  4. Hello i have recently, finished a harvest table with matching bench, made out of very old pine. I stained the bench first with min-wax Jacobean finishing stain. The bench took the stain very well and went as dark as I wanted but I noticed it was inconsistent and bloctchy. As a preventative to stop the table from getting bloctchy and to ensure a more even coat , I used a sanding sealer on the table top only as I wasn't to concerned about the bottom as it wouldn't be seen with exception of the skirt. As you can see in the picture the difference is substantial and even after I left the sati
  5. I have used bees wax on bedroom furniture and it worked excellent. It takes a bit to get the right amount of a coating but it last for a long time and very easy to apply.
  6. I'm fininshing up a harvest table that I am making out of very old pine. I was wondering if anyone has done this and what type of finish too use? I was just going to use Poly but the more I read the more I am debating it. Does anyone have any advise for a finish for a harvest table? thanks
  7. Very nice door and hardware
  8. Glass, although if I had my choice, I would have gone a different route, Lexan is great not that more expensive but way more durable.
  9. Thanks for the positive feedback. I will attempt to post more pics, the brand of tung oil is minwax, I waited an average of 24 hr, between Coates, working through 300-900 wet/dry -0000 steelwool . The "plaid" is actually a Canadian Airforce tartan.
  10. your never to young to learn. I have made multiple things out of different species of wood. This time I went with walnut with maple splines using tung oil only something I haver used before, the results were awesome ( well I think so anyway) and I will be incorporating tung oil in many projects to come. I never really appreciated what tung oil can bring to the party. I applied the first coat with a 300-400 wet dry sandpaper, which lead to about 6 Coates all progressing up to 0000 steel wool. Sorry for picture not sure what's going on there and why it is upside down.
  11. Well I thought I would update this issue, this afternoon I started experimenting with basically every aspect that was suggested with the exception of going for the G&G method as this was not an option. Needless to say ( and as I suspected, and was told) I could not match the filler be it the walnut, color puddy or wood glue. So as I bowed my head in defeat, I set the table saw and router table up and made a new face frame for the shadow box.....but learned a lesson and after all isn't that why we do this crazy stuff. Thanks again
  12. Snibley

    Entire table

    How did you get rich that cherry wood with a cherry varnish?
  13. I will try as many of these as possible hopefully one of them works, thanks gents
  14. Yes that was exactly I was going to do...but I am a little..(.a lot) worried that the cure might be worse then the cause, I never thought these brad holes would give me so much grief.
  15. In completing a dark cherry shadow box, I was told that for filling in corner gaps or trim gaps in this case braid nail holes, that walnut wood filler will hide or blend where it won't be noticed. Unfortunately the dark wood is showing the wood filler so much that I think I might have to start this project over, but due to a deadline this option is not preferable. I was trying to stain the cherry (I used red mahogany) so it would not show the wood filler but the brad holes are very noticeable. I was actually going to try and dig out the walnut wood filler to maybe use something else but