Robert Morse

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Robert Morse last won the day on January 12

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About Robert Morse

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Puget Sound, WA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinets, furniture and outdoor living.

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  1. In related news, Minnesota Steve's drill is so sparkly, you can see it from space. I too have a daughter under 10.
  2. I have 2 sets of the Bosch 1617 (each with fixed and plunge bases). I love how smoothly they start up, and the wood handles on the fixed bases feel really nice in my hand. I also have a PC 690 fixed base and while very functional, it's not the one I reach for most of the time, due to how jerky it starts up - there's noticeable torque, while the Bosch routers spin up without the torque.
  3. 10' would be better - it would give clearance to actually lift/carry long things more easily... I don't know how I got by in garages with 8-9' ceilings before I moved into the current shop. I'm NEVER going back to low ceilings.
  4. Enough slop in the holes? Not on mine there isn't. Something I'll address when/if I make a new table. In regards to the insert plate, I totally agree, but i was able to reference the cast iron top with a 6" combo square to validate flatness, with no insert in place. So that worked OK for me.
  5. A few thou doesn't seem like it would matter much, but mine's 1/8" to 1/4" low at the far right edge... I think that's enough to show on some joinery (mitered corners perhaps?), if you're muscling a long piece across the table. Plus, it was expensive, and I'd just like to know it's RIGHT. at some point down the road, i'll probably make a new table, and drill my own holes in the side, so I KNOW it's right. No, and I should have called that out on my "what's different"... 2 wrenches are needed for blade changes. On the plus side though, I feel like my big ol' paws can get into the throat area easier on the SawStop. Is it part of an attempt to upsell? Hard to say - I sorta feel like this is an integration issue where they either sub-out the table to someone else to make, or the jigs for drilling the holes are out of alignment, full of chips or something.
  6. Selling my 2hp Jet dust collector DC-1200VX-CK1 with 2 micron canister filter kit (710702K), along with wood river 220-volt dust collector remote control (very similar to this). Ready for pick up in Woodinville, as it doesn’t fit in my car. In very gently used condition – no major scratches or bends in the paint or the filter cover. Includes at least one Jet bag, and i'm pretty sure I have the instruction manual too. Note the images below are from Amazon, and I'll add more when I get home, and get the storage dust wiped off. Available for pickup/inspection in Woodinville, WA. Cash or paypal, $550.
  7. Selling my Powermatic PM2000, 3hp, single phase 230v, with 30” rails. Detailed list of accessories included is below (inserts, Incra miter sled, blade). Looking for $2500, cash or paypal. This saw is a little over 4 years old, I’m the only owner, and I’m selling it because my wife got me a SawStop. Functions great, some discoloration of cast iron and on the exposed metal on the rails, but nothing that impacts functionality. This is a heavy, full size cabinet saw, and it runs amazingly well – very smooth and powerful. Full disclosure: I had a factory service tech come out immediately after purchase to fix one of the retractable casters which was wonky. These work fine now. No other issues. Includes: Saw with factory accessories: 30” fence rails set with Accu-fence 3hp, single phase 220v Saw is equipped with a built in, retractable mobile base. Very convenient. Powermatic insert, riving knives (both standard and low profile), blade guard, 27mm blade wrench Powermatic miter gauge Instruction manuals Freshly cleaned top, it has always been coated with CRC 3-36 or Boe-Shield, and Paste Wax. Attached folding outfeed table (double layer MDF, with hardwood edging and black laminate on both sides). This helps the saw handle larger work pieces more easily while keeping the saw’s small footprint. It folds away for easy storage if necessary. Also easy to remove if you don’t want to use it, as it’s mounted on the rear rail. (approx. $100 in materials). The laminate has some glue stains on it, and minor scratches from use, but is otherwise in great shape. Extra cast iron wing (Powermatic thought I needed another one due to some manufacturing discoloration on one that came with the saw. I never installed it. Still in box, never opened). Incra Miter 5000 SE (~$350 new). Used sparingly, includes t-track clamp and “drop board” to catch cutoffs and minimize tear out. 3x LeeCraft phenolic inserts (~$40 each new). 1 for standard blade, zero clearance. 1 for ¾” dado stack. 1 for ¼” dado stack. 10” Forrest Woodworker II blade (~$120 new) – full kerf. Still plenty sharp, but it fits the zero clearance insert above precisely, so I’m including it. This blade is fantastic for both cross cuts and rips in hard and softwood. All together it was somewhere north of $3600 new, before tax. Looking for $2500, cash or paypal. Saw is available for inspection, testing and pickup in Woodinville. You can back up a pickup truck or van right to my shop to load. Plan to bring help and/or a liftgate, it’s heavy.
  8. You're in Minnesota, right? If you were about half as far, we could meet in the middle.
  9. Yeah, that's about where I'm at too... I'll get on that right after a sled, outfeed table, an under-wing cabinet, and maybe a couple of other cabinets around the shop.
  10. I had a WWII on my PM2000, and had a good experience, so I thought I'd try this one. You can find more about them here: "This blade is the same as the regular 10"x40T Woodworker II with the exception of having a slightly larger outside diameter which works well with SawStop's automatic brake design. More sharpenings are possible with these longer tipped teeth." That's a bit out of the way...
  11. I type all day for my day job - the flesh-sensing is just a cheap insurance policy. However, I loved the PM2000, and all else being equal, I would have kept it. The PCS is very well made, but the PM2000 has a slightly deeper table, and I loved the integrated caster system. I don't think you can go wrong with either of these saws.
  12. A quick update: the saw is fully assembled, and operational. I spent a few hours yesterday getting the wings, rails, table, and dust collection piping set up. The saw is in place and wired up, everything is working great. Some observations: The 3hp PCS motor is noticeably louder than the 3hp PM2000 when running. I don't mean this as a gripe, but it was the first thing I noticed when I turned it on for the first time. The PM2000 motor has a lower tone and is definitely quieter. I'm not sure if this is a function of the thickness of the cabinets, or just characteristic of the motors. There was the one missing part, the tilt lock knob. SawStop was great about this when I called last week, and it should be here tomorrow. Assembly was EASY for almost all of the steps. I loved the color coded blister packs, and the instructions made it super simple. The only thing I didn't like in the assembly process was the installation of the 52" table - it was finicky, and I still don't think I have it perfect. I may take off the rail and try again, as the right side of the table is a good 1/8", maybe even a 1/4" lower than the cast iron table. I have the wood table as high as I can get it with the pre-drilled holes. I used my rolling scaffold with a stack of scrap wood to hold the extension wings at the right height. Worked like a charm. I LOVE the ICS base, and I'm glad I paid for the upgrade. Moving the saw is a breeze, because like AppleJackson, and others have noted, you can move it in any direction. The runny oil/grease SawStop uses on their cast iron sucks - it drips all over everything, and I still don't think I got it all off. I much prefer the thicker stuff I've seen on other tools. The fence required no adjustment to square up - perfect out of the box. the top/Miter slots were out of square 0.006" - easy enough to fix that up. the 0 degree stop was not quite right, so I reset that. I had to adjust it by touch, because I couldn't get my hands in there, and see thru the little access door at the same time. The actual process to adjust it was easy. The access door on the back right side of the saw is extremely convenient. In fact, I'd love it if both the right side, and the back, had large removable panels to access the inner bits. I put a Forrest WWII SawStop version blade in it. Next up is a sled, then an outfeed table, and finally a storage cabinet under the wing for bits and doodads. Looking back towards the door, holy cow, what a mess. Dust collection and power - there needs to be an assembly table here! Shimming/holding the wings for solo installation:
  13. Yeah, it's right on the edge of what I can safely lift/manage by myself - especially without dropping it. Better safe than sorry.
  14. so a couple of complications in my set up process... we don't have a paved anything going out to the shop, so deliveries, pallet trucks etc. end up in the house garage. From there, they are either uncrated and moved piece-meal, or I rent a skid-steer with forks to move the big things. In this case, I had to move the parts down to the shop and moved the saw body on a hand truck, because there's no way to roll a mobile base over the uneven ground and gravel. Also, my recollection of the ICS mobile base instructions is that you need to lift and lower it into the base, they call for 4 people, one on each corner. Pretty sure I can do it with 2.