wnaziri

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wnaziri last won the day on February 24

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About wnaziri

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Woodworking Interests
    Fine furniture

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  1. Thank you all. When I began woodworking about 4-5 years ago, I had no idea what I was doing. I decided to make 100 pieces to get better at my hobby. I am at 47 projects now. I am getting better at making my projects but the more interesting aspect is that I am beginning to understand how design sense develops. I used to want plans and measured drawings, etc. Now, I just see a pic and it gives me ideas on how to make something. So, I hope to make about 50 more projects as I develop my own ideas on design. As I get better, it seems that projects takes less and less time to complete. I suspect this has to do with my shop set up and the tools that I have at my disposal. Anyway, thank you for all the kind words.
  2. I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  3. wnaziri

    New Table Saw

    Very smart choice on the saw and the shop looks great.
  4. I drew the lines with a white marker to make sure the squares were evenly spaced and continued down the side naturally. I clamped a straight edge along each line and created a kerf against the straight edge with my dovetail saw. I glued 2 mm strips of black dyed veneer into each strip. It was tedious and time consuming. However, after I finish my day job, sitting at my workbench and doing the inlay seemed therapeutic and relaxing.
  5. I did a sample glue up and it took tremendous effort to break the joint. When the middle bubinga piece was not integrated into the table top, I had it sitting on the hanging ends. I placed a bunch of lumber on it to see if it would hold up. In fact, I placed a whole lot of lumber that I had milled for projects on it and it held up amazingly well. Nothing is unbreakable but I think that joint will hold up in ordinary use.
  6. This table was designed from the outset with the expectation of being placed in our house. When I brought it home, my wife chose an entirely different place than what I had in mind. As she likes to remind me, she is always right. Here is the final resting place for the table in the dining room, replacing a commercially-produced table we had purchased several years ago. Note the irony that the "Hall" table is in the Dining Room. Oy vey.
  7. --> Cent check design: kerf frommy Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw with black dyed veneer --> Bingo: {router and then handtools used to clean up the overhanging "table cloth"}
  8. I recently built a prototype table and I really liked the proportions of the prototype. So, I began to build the final version of the table. I had seen Kyle Toth build a table that looked like it had tablecloth placed in center of it and I wanted to build one like it. The most difficult part of the build for me was choosing a suitable lumber combination. I finally settled on of combo of varieties that I had on hand. The main lumber for the table is canary wood. I bought a slab of the stuff in an auction and supposedly, the log had been under water for several decades. For the center portion of the table, I used a piece of waterfall bubinga. This stuff is hard as rock and a pain to work with but it is beautiful. The inlay banding was my first attempting at making inlay. I probably made enough to make 10 more such tables but it sure was fun to do. I made the banding out of Wenge, black dyed veneer, and holly. I finished the piece with Arm-R-Seal. I did apply pore filler to the table top to make it nice and smooth. All components were sanded to 320, then sealed with 1 lb cut de-waxed shellac, followed by 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal. By the way, the joinery is all mortise and tenon construction. Above is the un-finished, un-sanded table top. I pre-finished all components before final assembly. The table top after last coat of finish. Even the sating finish looks shiny when pores all filled and sanded between each coat. My wife chose to place the table by a bay window in the dining room and it gets a good amount of sunlight. The colors are getting deeper and looking better every day. Thank you for viewing and welcome all comments.
  9. You nailed it! The shimmer on the piece reminds one of silk cloth. I love the idea of pre-exposure to change the color. From what I understand, purpleheart color change is not so much UV exposure. It supposedly changes color due to oxidation. Anyone have a spare hyperbaric chamber I can use?
  10. Thanks. I bought the sapele through an auction so I can not comment of the price. I bought about100 bf of 8/4 prime sapele, with max length of 4 feet, for about $180. I have used it for several projects so far and I am about to deplete my supply. I really like the look of the quarter sawn sapele. However, it is not easy to work with. I have pretty sharp planes but this stuff will get tear out easily. It works really well with a spiral cutterhead planer / jointer. Sapele color does change with time and from what I have observed, the color gets a greenish tint and, to me, it is not pleasing. It does not have the warm look of aged genuine mahogany.
  11. For the "tablecloth" table, I intend to use birdseye maple as the primary wood. I just finished making the banding that I will be using. The banding is wenge sandwiched between strips of holy and black veneer. Here is how it turned out. The strip is 3/4 inch wide and 1/16 thick. It actually turned out pretty nice. I am having a hard time deciding on what lumber species to use for the middle section of the table, the part that conveys the sense of cloth that is draped on top and it extends below table surface at 90 degrees at the two ends. I would love to use an amazing piece of lumber that I have but it is Purpleheart!!! I am not a fan of the purpleheart. If I can stomach it for about 6 months to a year, it will then turn a beautiful maroon color. This piece has flame figure and check it out: I have not made my final decision yet. I will keep playing some idea over the next few days to weeks. If I make it and my wife and I are not loving it, my daughter would love to take it. She loves the color purple. Who knows, I may end up making a second (very expensive) prototype.
  12. I am a big fan of Kyle Toth and his design sense. He is an artist whose medium happens to be wood / furniture. Anyway, he has made a table on more than one occasion that looks like it has a tablecloth draped on it but in fact it is different species of wood with some inlay. I love the design and have been wanting to make one like it. To get ready for the project, I elected to make a prototype to see what dimensions I wanted. This table is my prototype. It is based on the table that was built on the most recent episode of FWW Rough Cut. The top is 17' by 42". the height is 27.5". It is constructed using Domino's. The lumber is QS sapele. Having witnessed the natural color of the lumber as it darkens with time (not a fan!), I chose to apply Darrel Peart's stain on this project. The finish is my standard wash coat of 1 lb cut de-waxed shellac followed by 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal. I will likely gift this to someone when I get going on the actual project. The above 2 pictures give you a good idea of the color of newly milled QS sapele. Thank you.
  13. I happen to have a couple of really good pics from last year that show the color and patina of aged Genuine Mahogany vs what it looks like when freshly planed. I did this to see how quickly I could flatten a big board with my planers. You also get to see my stash of my 20"-26" wide 16/4 mahogany supply.
  14. I do not have issues with sharing all the dimensions. This bed is an Eastern King (vs California King) which is 76" x 80". I can tell you that for posts, I started at 3" but they seemed "horsey". I am really not a fan of thick, heavy furniture. I reduced them down to 2 1/4 where I thought the length vs height ratio looked more pleasing. The side rails are 1 1/4. Cross pieces for the head and foot board are 1". Mahogany used for the is genuine mahogany. Last year, I bought a boatload of Genuine mahogany. It is an absolute pleasure to work with. I have some African mahogany and I have no desire to go back to using it. African "mahogany" has more brownish color. Genuine mahogany has a light, almost pinkish yellow color when freshly planed. It darkens nicely with age. Arm-R-Seal also help move the color along.
  15. I agree and they will be by the time the bed gets delivered.