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Everything posted by wnaziri

  1. Thank you all. When I began woodworking about 4-5 years ago, I had no idea what I was doing. I decided to make 100 pieces to get better at my hobby. I am at 47 projects now. I am getting better at making my projects but the more interesting aspect is that I am beginning to understand how design sense develops. I used to want plans and measured drawings, etc. Now, I just see a pic and it gives me ideas on how to make something. So, I hope to make about 50 more projects as I develop my own ideas on design. As I get better, it seems that projects takes less and less time to complete. I suspect this has to do with my shop set up and the tools that I have at my disposal. Anyway, thank you for all the kind words.
  2. I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  3. wnaziri

    New Table Saw

    Very smart choice on the saw and the shop looks great.
  4. I drew the lines with a white marker to make sure the squares were evenly spaced and continued down the side naturally. I clamped a straight edge along each line and created a kerf against the straight edge with my dovetail saw. I glued 2 mm strips of black dyed veneer into each strip. It was tedious and time consuming. However, after I finish my day job, sitting at my workbench and doing the inlay seemed therapeutic and relaxing.
  5. I did a sample glue up and it took tremendous effort to break the joint. When the middle bubinga piece was not integrated into the table top, I had it sitting on the hanging ends. I placed a bunch of lumber on it to see if it would hold up. In fact, I placed a whole lot of lumber that I had milled for projects on it and it held up amazingly well. Nothing is unbreakable but I think that joint will hold up in ordinary use.
  6. This table was designed from the outset with the expectation of being placed in our house. When I brought it home, my wife chose an entirely different place than what I had in mind. As she likes to remind me, she is always right. Here is the final resting place for the table in the dining room, replacing a commercially-produced table we had purchased several years ago. Note the irony that the "Hall" table is in the Dining Room. Oy vey.
  7. --> Cent check design: kerf frommy Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw with black dyed veneer --> Bingo: {router and then handtools used to clean up the overhanging "table cloth"}
  8. I recently built a prototype table and I really liked the proportions of the prototype. So, I began to build the final version of the table. I had seen Kyle Toth build a table that looked like it had tablecloth placed in center of it and I wanted to build one like it. The most difficult part of the build for me was choosing a suitable lumber combination. I finally settled on of combo of varieties that I had on hand. The main lumber for the table is canary wood. I bought a slab of the stuff in an auction and supposedly, the log had been under water for several decades. For the center portion of the table, I used a piece of waterfall bubinga. This stuff is hard as rock and a pain to work with but it is beautiful. The inlay banding was my first attempting at making inlay. I probably made enough to make 10 more such tables but it sure was fun to do. I made the banding out of Wenge, black dyed veneer, and holly. I finished the piece with Arm-R-Seal. I did apply pore filler to the table top to make it nice and smooth. All components were sanded to 320, then sealed with 1 lb cut de-waxed shellac, followed by 4 coats of Arm-R-Seal. By the way, the joinery is all mortise and tenon construction. Above is the un-finished, un-sanded table top. I pre-finished all components before final assembly. The table top after last coat of finish. Even the sating finish looks shiny when pores all filled and sanded between each coat. My wife chose to place the table by a bay window in the dining room and it gets a good amount of sunlight. The colors are getting deeper and looking better every day. Thank you for viewing and welcome all comments.
  9. You nailed it! The shimmer on the piece reminds one of silk cloth. I love the idea of pre-exposure to change the color. From what I understand, purpleheart color change is not so much UV exposure. It supposedly changes color due to oxidation. Anyone have a spare hyperbaric chamber I can use?
  10. Thanks. I bought the sapele through an auction so I can not comment of the price. I bought about100 bf of 8/4 prime sapele, with max length of 4 feet, for about $180. I have used it for several projects so far and I am about to deplete my supply. I really like the look of the quarter sawn sapele. However, it is not easy to work with. I have pretty sharp planes but this stuff will get tear out easily. It works really well with a spiral cutterhead planer / jointer. Sapele color does change with time and from what I have observed, the color gets a greenish tint and, to me, it is not pleasing. It does not have the warm look of aged genuine mahogany.
  11. For the "tablecloth" table, I intend to use birdseye maple as the primary wood. I just finished making the banding that I will be using. The banding is wenge sandwiched between strips of holy and black veneer. Here is how it turned out. The strip is 3/4 inch wide and 1/16 thick. It actually turned out pretty nice. I am having a hard time deciding on what lumber species to use for the middle section of the table, the part that conveys the sense of cloth that is draped on top and it extends below table surface at 90 degrees at the two ends. I would love to use an amazing piece of lumber that I have but it is Purpleheart!!! I am not a fan of the purpleheart. If I can stomach it for about 6 months to a year, it will then turn a beautiful maroon color. This piece has flame figure and check it out: I have not made my final decision yet. I will keep playing some idea over the next few days to weeks. If I make it and my wife and I are not loving it, my daughter would love to take it. She loves the color purple. Who knows, I may end up making a second (very expensive) prototype.
  12. I am a big fan of Kyle Toth and his design sense. He is an artist whose medium happens to be wood / furniture. Anyway, he has made a table on more than one occasion that looks like it has a tablecloth draped on it but in fact it is different species of wood with some inlay. I love the design and have been wanting to make one like it. To get ready for the project, I elected to make a prototype to see what dimensions I wanted. This table is my prototype. It is based on the table that was built on the most recent episode of FWW Rough Cut. The top is 17' by 42". the height is 27.5". It is constructed using Domino's. The lumber is QS sapele. Having witnessed the natural color of the lumber as it darkens with time (not a fan!), I chose to apply Darrel Peart's stain on this project. The finish is my standard wash coat of 1 lb cut de-waxed shellac followed by 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal. I will likely gift this to someone when I get going on the actual project. The above 2 pictures give you a good idea of the color of newly milled QS sapele. Thank you.
  13. I happen to have a couple of really good pics from last year that show the color and patina of aged Genuine Mahogany vs what it looks like when freshly planed. I did this to see how quickly I could flatten a big board with my planers. You also get to see my stash of my 20"-26" wide 16/4 mahogany supply.
  14. I do not have issues with sharing all the dimensions. This bed is an Eastern King (vs California King) which is 76" x 80". I can tell you that for posts, I started at 3" but they seemed "horsey". I am really not a fan of thick, heavy furniture. I reduced them down to 2 1/4 where I thought the length vs height ratio looked more pleasing. The side rails are 1 1/4. Cross pieces for the head and foot board are 1". Mahogany used for the is genuine mahogany. Last year, I bought a boatload of Genuine mahogany. It is an absolute pleasure to work with. I have some African mahogany and I have no desire to go back to using it. African "mahogany" has more brownish color. Genuine mahogany has a light, almost pinkish yellow color when freshly planed. It darkens nicely with age. Arm-R-Seal also help move the color along.
  15. I agree and they will be by the time the bed gets delivered.
  16. Thank you. I bought 3/8 bolts with a hex head (easier to screw in place in tight quarters), 5" long and 3/8" threaded inserts from Fastenal. The plate is something I made from 1/4" aluminum plate. I thought it would be better to distribute the pressure of the bolt over a larger area. The threaded inserts were screwed in place with a special threaded insert bolt that I bought from Amazon a while back. Finally, I put a little bit of epoxy in each 1/2" holes (overkill) that I drilled for the threaded inserts.
  17. You all might have realized that I am a big fan of Doucette and Wolfe. My recently completed project is a king bed based on the D & W. I was actually prompted after I saw @Eric do his version of this bed. The project took about 2 months to complete. When I first began planning it, I wanted to use tiger maple as the highlight wood in the panels but the online lumber store never responded to my requests. So, I went through my supply of lumber and chose to use plain sawn and curly / tiger mahogany. I began the project with the legs. The ultimate height of the bed was my son's choice since he is proud owner of this bed. I basically shortened the posts till I like the relative proportions. Joints are all mortise and tenons. I should mention that I used Satin Arm-R-Seal for the project. I finished the pieces as each was getting completed. The secondary wood is poplar. Once the legs and the major cross pieces were fitted, the rest seemed to flow very quickly. I had mark the faces of each component so that mortises reference the same surface. Despite this effort to apply blue tape to keep it straight, I screwed it up for on of the cross pieces. All I can say is thank god for veneer and glue to fix screwed up tenons. The two panels for both headboard and footboard are 4 way matched: top to bottom and left to right. Fortunately I had 10/4 curley mahogany to resaw. Fro the vertical panel, I found a piece of mahogany that looked very much like tiger maple. Sadly, I do not have a good pic of it. Well, I found a few more pics in my collection, including one of the middle panel to showcase the figure in the mahogany. The legs were roughed out on band saw and finished with spokeshaves. I finished the project this weekend. It is ready to be delivered. The side rails are secured with 3/8 bolt into threaded inserts in each leg. There are loose tenons above and below the bolt to help secure the rails to the legs. The bed is rather solid and secure. Found this detail picture showing the bolt with my home made 1/4 plate to better distribute the pressure from the bolt. I welcome all comments including critiques. It will help my learning process. Thank you for viewing.
  18. It was time to do a fun little project for our 3 year old Cavalier King Charles. She was in need of an official bed. Well, as with many woodworkers, I am a lumber hoarder. I have a really hard time throwing out lumber. From my recent projects, I had accumulated a nice little collection, including cutoffs from mahogany table legs, 7/8" mahogany that I had leftover, and some veneered panels that I had made a while back for a gaming table. I had to re-do the veneered panels because I sanded through the veneer in a couple of areas (I am sure it was the Festool sander's fault). After a few crude sketches, I came up with the following "design". The construction is mortise and tenoned. The lumber is genuine mahogany. The panel that I used for the bed is Baltic Birch with pommele sapele veneer on both sides. The finish is satin Arm-R-Seal. Above, you can see the panels when I was initially working on them about 1.5 years ago. After screwing up the first batch, I ended up making a whole new set of panels. I should mention that I was modifying the design on the fly. I elected to do mitered corners mainly to see the accuracy of my new Felder K700s sliding table saw. This saw is spot on. The miters have 3 cm dominos for strength. Here is the end product with a couple coats of ARS. I think that doggie likes it. I just hope she doesn't like it so much that she starts gnawing on it. Thanks for viewing.
  19. The price would be equivalent to Festool that is gold plated and then studded with diamonds.
  20. Aaaaand the problem is..... Yes. Big operations through small holes.
  21. I am so glad the operation went well. If you can force yourself to follow the directions of the surgeon in working your way back to normal activity, it will sever you well. I am not an orthopedic surgeon. I do Laparoscopic general surgery and get to play with some awesome, high tech toys. My toys are usually not stainless steel though. But, I have seen plenty of bone surgery. It is very much like woodworking, using similar tools but sterilized (and very expensive) versions.
  22. What a coincidence. I know of a surgeon who likes to get up early while on vacation, read WoodTalk, and comment on other woodworkers' hernia surgery. Go figure! There must be something about woodworking and surgery.
  23. Good Luck Dave. Fortunately, hernia repair is fairly routine surgery these days. Curious: Laparoscopic or open repair? They are both good methods. I could also give you advice but I would have to send you a bill .
  24. This is going to be good. Looking forward to frequent updates.
  25. I am a big fan of sapele. I have not worked with flat sawn sapele but the quarter sawn version is gorgeous. If you intend to plane by hand, @TerryMcK is correct that the changes in grain direction can be a challenge; ask me how I know. Overall, it is easy to work with.