Just Bob

Yes, years ago when I first started having trouble.

Probably not, but arthritis prevents me from using a handsaw for any extended time. So it is, what it is.

I have the D4R jig and it takes a lot to get the joint correct. I don't think the angles on different I think the joint is to loose. Have you watched Leigh's videos? They are helpful. This one is on through dovetails. Leigh super jig. It looks like you are using pine for your test cuts. I would switch to a hard wood like poplar for your tests. Pine will not give great results even when everything else is perfect.

Your pictures aren't showing up for me.

You don't say what type of saw it, is but from weight it sounds like a cabinet saw. If so, you can take it apart. Remove the top, and if necessary remove the motor. At that point the base is manageable for one person. This is how did mine by myself. You are going to have to do a certain amount a assembly anyway so might as well make it as painless as possible. If you want to use an engine hoist, just rent one. But it is going to be awkward trying to attached straps to the saw because there are not any easy places to attach the straps. I have used handy man jacks for along time, and ca

I seriously considered the Sawstop lift. What concerned me was the chain driven mechanism. Not the function of it but the constant cleaning it would need. I honestly don't know if this would be a problem, but I use my router table a lot, and the thought of having to constantly clean it sent me to the Jessem.

I bought the Jessem Master lift last month and really like it.

If "creeps" means allows movement, that is what I am counting on. I am insetting an end grain chess board, and will be a small dab of Lexel on each side to allow the board to expand and contract.

Absolutely beautiful! The one downside, for me, is that I won't be able to show the chess table I currently have partially done. How tall is the table? The one I am working on will be 30" ish, and I have been wondering if that is I am on the right track.

Thanks, I will write it down again, so I can loose it ....again.

Steve, @wdwerkertalked about a flexible caulk/adhesive he used in some applications. It allows for wood movement. I thought I had the name written down, but now I can't find my notes. I did a search, but since I don't know the name that didn't help. This ring a bell with anyone?

Welcome to the forum! I wish my first attempt had looked that good! Yes epoxy will those cracks. To darken and thicken the epoxy for a close match I would try used coffee grounds. Make sure the grounds are dry!. Do a couple of tests until you come close to matching your stain.

I have one of these lights on my lathe and bandsaw. They work well, my only minor complaint is the cord is a little short. I have to be careful when I move my bandsaw.

My wife and I are in the "high risk" category and we are finally scheduled for our first shots, sometime in February. Here in Washington state the system is truly FUBAR'd. First you have to go on line to get "approved" then my wife spent well over 8 hours on the phone trying to get scheduled. There are only 3 places in the county administering the shots. I swear 2 three year old children on a chocolate high would be better organized.

There is a lot of spring tension there, I would probably start by removing the springs first just incase removing the base releases the tubes 44 and 61.