Just Bob

My shop is 17x30. I put my miter saw, and router table on one wall with shelves as support. This takes up 21' of space. The remaining space is used for my DC and oscillating sander. On the opposite wall I have my planer, jointer and bandsaw, these are on mobile bases. A lower shelf unit finishing out the space. My table saw, outfeed table and work bench are in the center, and are the only tools that are not mobile. My lathe and drum sander are on one end and desk and drill press on the other. I have a separate space for wood storage. I used the wall space behind the miter saw/router table for hand tool storage. This gives me enough space to maneuver wood through the shop, although it can be tight. The wall space behind the miter saw/router is used for clamps/hand tool storage. Because floor space is limited I installed a central vacuum system that handles shop cleanup, sanding, and dc for the miter saw and router table. The DC is ducted to the table saw, and other large tools. For me the shop is functional, and I am happy with the layout. The only thing I would change, is the shelf unit under the miter saw router table. I should have made that a cabinet unit, which would make cleaning a lot easier.

Very nice. Could you explain this? I don't understand.

Mine blows the 20amp circuit all the time. Have you checked the breaker? It took me an hour to figure that out when it happened the first time.

Kev, my Grizzly has a 3hp Baldor. I just checked it and after 4 startups it average 74amps on start up and 8.5amps running. I checked on line and that seems to be close to normal. Maybe the PM guy is more than a "little high".

I use a barbers strop for as a final sharpening step and for touch ups. Mine is close to 60yrs old and still going strong. I don't use any compound, but it probably wouldn't hurt.

Yea, escalated blood pressure. With most of these tools, SawStop, PM, Grizzly etc.., being manufactured in Taiwan/China (Geetech), in the same factories, I have to wonder what the premium prices do for the consumer.

For something that small and shallow I would be tempted to just use an abrasive ball like this. It could be done with a router and template, or as already stated on the table saw, but setup time and safety considerations would make me K.I.S.S. it.

With all of the documented problems, is PM refusing to replace the saw?

K&J Magnetics for ring magnets. ring magnets

Milliput should work well. https://www.milliput.com/ Plus you can use the left over for your turning. The only downside is it takes about 24hrs to set. Michael's carries the basic colors, if color matters.

I am not absolutely positive, it has been a while, but I think both drawer front and sides should be the same thickness when using the Leigh jig for half-blind dovetails. I glanced at the manual and it didn't specify, but I would call Leigh customer service before you do the veneer, and then cut the dovetails.

We use cheese cloth a lot for canning, we pick it with the canning supplies. I also use in the shop.

I saw these being used by Marc in one of his videos, https://magport.net/ Now they are on my list because they look like they are well worth the money.

Carbide bits like the one your ordered are incredibly brittle. It is possible, (likely) that the bit will shatter if you try to take to much with a single pass. Don't ask how I know! When it happens your shop becomes a very exciting place. I really like using spiral bits, but now I am very careful about how much wood I take in a single pass.

Be careful! While my wife doesn't have one yet, she has no problem comparing the cost of a long arm to the cost of my shop tools. I scoff and tell her she is full of it, but all of my arguments fall on deaf ears!