Just Bob

I have the Grizzly slider on my saw. Except for the fence, it is identical to the SS. I use it for panels and ply and really like it. As @Mick S said it does not have positive stops, but they are not necessary and in my opinion would not work any way. The majority of time the fence is removed from the saw and the fence has to be squared to the blade every time it is attached. I made a 25"x25" square that I use when I install the fence. It takes about 1 minute to square the fence to the table saw fence and it is ready to cut. The unit is not saw specific, I had to drill the to attach th

I have been using 60 cc syringes for applying PolyX. Allows me to really control the amount and return the unused portion to the can. They are cheap enough that I just toss the syringe after use. Yes the 3M pads are the same.

You might get some information about your router here Router forum. It is a router specific forum, with some very knowledgeable and friendly people.

I use this teflon lub Dupont, it doesn't attrack dust and is wood safe. (No silicone).

I get mine at Fastcap, occasionally they have sales on overstock or returns. For small items I will cut a profile with razor knife and peel the layers. For my larger heavier stuff, like saw blades, it is easier to just lay them on the foam. The foam is soft enough that the weight of the blade keeps it place.

Friends of the family have a new baby. My wife said she was going to buy a sweater and baby rattle to send with the quilt she made. Not to be out done, I said I would make the rattle. It was easier than I thought, it took about 2 hours. (I have never turned a vessel) Curly maple, pop corn rattles and shellac finish.

How do you store them?

I use a product called WoodEpox from Abatron to repair things like this. It is easy to use, sands and finishes well. There are other products on the market but this is one I use. Here is a youtube from their web site. Abatron.

You will be very happy with the Shelix head. I have replaced both my jointer and planer heads. While I do get some minor tear out with curly maple, it is greatly reduced. I get no tear out with other figured/squirrely wood.

Check into the Osmo line of finishes. Very durable and easy to apply/repair. https://osmo-store.com/product/topoil-high-solid/

Another vote for the MR23.

I would use an adjustable leg like this leg, they would be strong enough for what you are doing. Here is a picture of a drill press vertical drill jig. You could easily make a temporary one if needed. This one is from Popular Woodworking magazine.

You can use the base plate off of the router, or try this link. FOG. You should probably sign up for the forum before asking. I am curious, what are you doing with it?

Purple heart will turn brown while you are cutting/shaping and sanding it. You can bring back the color prior to applying a finish by heating it gently. You can stick in your oven, use a heat gun, or even a hair dryer. Be careful with the heat it is easy to over do it and turn the wood very dark. Purple heart is not going to stay purple no matter what you use as a finish. Overtime it will continue to darken. For something like your grip I would use a polyurethane to protect the wood from exposure to the sweat/oils in your hand. That looks like it will be a fun project show us a pictur

I am not sure that is necessarily true, a kickback will certainly ruin the cut, and your day. When I make a cut like that I set up a stop block, use a miter gauge on the left side and let the off cut fall free of the blade. Just set up the stop block so it clears the work piece before the cut is complete.