Just Bob

How are you going to attach the two "wings"?. If you don't already have a plan consider using a masons miter jig like this mason miter. It works well with butcher block.

I installed this tail vise: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=65746&cat=1,41637,41659 It can be installed without remaking your top. I really like the quick release, and it is very well made.

It does. But like I said make sure you test any finish on scrap.

I am a fan of Sapele. The "stripey grain" you mentioned, for me is one of Sapele's more attractive features. However if you pick your stock it will not always show up. There is no need to fill the grain. I am not familiar with aquacoat, but any of the other finishes you mentioned will work nicely. One thing you should do is do test pieces to decide which finish you want to use, it really helps in deciding which finish meets your needs. Here are a couple of examples that show the difference in finish on Sapele. The first is a breakfast counter finished with Emmet's Good Stuff, I really like this for satin finishes, it is very easy and forgiving to apply, and buffs out to a nice satin finish. This is a kitchen island finished with 5 coats of shellac followed by 5 coats of lacquer.

These covers are supposed to work well. https://www.amazon.com/HTC-TS-9072-Saver-72-Inch-Machine/dp/B000022628 I would use Johnson Paste wax on all of the cast iron and then drape them with the covers.

I use a 2" foamular sheet on saw horses. If I have several sheets to cut I just make a "sandwich" with the foam in between sheets. The insulation is strong enough to support one piece of ply to break it down.

I thought I saved my searches, but only 2 were saved. The most informative is here https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3252.0 the second is the D-way youtube has some general info, though it is mostly about turning. I like to make hunting knives when I am not woodworking, so one my primary interests in the CBN wheel was refining the shape before heat treat. But it turns out that this will clog up the CBN. But after heat treat/tempering the wheels do a great job. I use O1 steel for my knives and have not had any clogging issues. One thing I forgot to mention, the wheels can be cleaned with kerosene and a toothbrush, it is tedious because the wheel has to stationary, but it can be done.

I did a bunch of research before I bought, and using it confirms, it works with any hardened steel. The clogging comes from non-hardened, or softer materials like brass. If it does clog it can be "cleaned" by sharpening a hss scraper. It may take a few attempts, but it cleans right up.

I replaced my grinding wheel with this https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/tormek-style-wheels/products/spartan-10-cbn-wheel-5-8-arbor No water, it does a better job, and has a lifetime warrantee. Just don't grind soft metals/materials. Works great for all of my sharpening needs.

The cabinet is going to work well for a lathe station. Since I don't have space for a slow speed grinder, I changed the wheel on my tormek to a CBN. It eliminates the water, and doesn't wear out so it will never have to be replaced.

Just a FYI for your next shop project, these slides are $6 and change per pair with free shipping. They are nice quality slides. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ1UJ1L/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I haven't tried to polish epoxy but I use Alumilite resin quite a bit in turning and process should be similar. Fine scratches are really visible and a lot of tuners recommend sanding up to 12000. What works well for me, is to sand to 800, then I use as series of shop made polishing compounds that are progressively finer in grit. I use Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish to bring it to a high gloss. I have tried to skip the polishing compounds and go straight to the final polish and it doesn't work. You might be able to use a rubbing compound before your polish to accomplish the same thing. For a finish I would use a couple of coats of wax like https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/specialty-finishes/minwax-paste-finishing-wax It is durable, easy to repair and you won't have compatibility issues between the wood and epoxy.

I am on my second 735, the first one died after about 10yrs. I was in the middle of a rush project and didn't try to fix it. I did however cannibalize it to salvage parts for future repairs. 1. I don't remember seeing a tensioning mechanism for the drive train, doesn't mean it isn't there, I wasn't looking. 2. I think you will have to replace the rollers, I just don't see how the rubber could be replaced easily. I didn't save the rollers on my old unit, they were badly worn. 3. The gear box for the speed change is on the left side (behind the height locking knob). It is fairly simple with 2 chain driven gears and a spring loaded tensioner. If it is not working I would suspect that the spring has broken or is disconnected. One of the gears might be stripped. 4. Since you are adding a helical head, you will remove the cutter head lock. If you don't go with a helical head the lock is a simple spring loaded post and should be a simple fix. 5. I highly recommend the helical head. I have had mine going on six years now, and in my opinion made a really good machine even better. While your in there, replace the Vbelt for the motor to drive head. Dewalt is in love with this little belt, they want $44 for a new one. I did a quick search and found replacement rollers for about $74 each. This is where I buy my parts. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw735-type-inch-planer-parts-c-1009_2664_2987.html?source=gaws&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWWxvaIXUhNYo_k_bmDQe6Hg1MKTLkccc_b_f_fVN2o4hfOSPY27810hoCBUoQAvD_BwE Good luck.

es Yep its still alive. I use a screen with a about 1/4 inch squares to cover the hole. It is about 7ft off the ground and covered by the shop eve, so my only concern was critters.

Harbor Freight lists it as 2hp but it is probably closer to 1 1/2. I have modified it with a larger impeller which really improved its efficiency. Here is the thread on the mods.