Just Bob

K&J Magnetics for ring magnets. ring magnets

Milliput should work well. https://www.milliput.com/ Plus you can use the left over for your turning. The only downside is it takes about 24hrs to set. Michael's carries the basic colors, if color matters.

I am not absolutely positive, it has been a while, but I think both drawer front and sides should be the same thickness when using the Leigh jig for half-blind dovetails. I glanced at the manual and it didn't specify, but I would call Leigh customer service before you do the veneer, and then cut the dovetails.

We use cheese cloth a lot for canning, we pick it with the canning supplies. I also use in the shop.

I saw these being used by Marc in one of his videos, https://magport.net/ Now they are on my list because they look like they are well worth the money.

Carbide bits like the one your ordered are incredibly brittle. It is possible, (likely) that the bit will shatter if you try to take to much with a single pass. Don't ask how I know! When it happens your shop becomes a very exciting place. I really like using spiral bits, but now I am very careful about how much wood I take in a single pass.

Be careful! While my wife doesn't have one yet, she has no problem comparing the cost of a long arm to the cost of my shop tools. I scoff and tell her she is full of it, but all of my arguments fall on deaf ears!

How are you going to attach the two "wings"?. If you don't already have a plan consider using a masons miter jig like this mason miter. It works well with butcher block.

I installed this tail vise: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=65746&cat=1,41637,41659 It can be installed without remaking your top. I really like the quick release, and it is very well made.

It does. But like I said make sure you test any finish on scrap.

I am a fan of Sapele. The "stripey grain" you mentioned, for me is one of Sapele's more attractive features. However if you pick your stock it will not always show up. There is no need to fill the grain. I am not familiar with aquacoat, but any of the other finishes you mentioned will work nicely. One thing you should do is do test pieces to decide which finish you want to use, it really helps in deciding which finish meets your needs. Here are a couple of examples that show the difference in finish on Sapele. The first is a breakfast counter finished with Emmet's Good Stuff, I really like this for satin finishes, it is very easy and forgiving to apply, and buffs out to a nice satin finish. This is a kitchen island finished with 5 coats of shellac followed by 5 coats of lacquer.

These covers are supposed to work well. https://www.amazon.com/HTC-TS-9072-Saver-72-Inch-Machine/dp/B000022628 I would use Johnson Paste wax on all of the cast iron and then drape them with the covers.

I use a 2" foamular sheet on saw horses. If I have several sheets to cut I just make a "sandwich" with the foam in between sheets. The insulation is strong enough to support one piece of ply to break it down.

I thought I saved my searches, but only 2 were saved. The most informative is here https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3252.0 the second is the D-way youtube has some general info, though it is mostly about turning. I like to make hunting knives when I am not woodworking, so one my primary interests in the CBN wheel was refining the shape before heat treat. But it turns out that this will clog up the CBN. But after heat treat/tempering the wheels do a great job. I use O1 steel for my knives and have not had any clogging issues. One thing I forgot to mention, the wheels can be cleaned with kerosene and a toothbrush, it is tedious because the wheel has to stationary, but it can be done.

I did a bunch of research before I bought, and using it confirms, it works with any hardened steel. The clogging comes from non-hardened, or softer materials like brass. If it does clog it can be "cleaned" by sharpening a hss scraper. It may take a few attempts, but it cleans right up.