Just Bob

I would use an adjustable leg like this leg, they would be strong enough for what you are doing. Here is a picture of a drill press vertical drill jig. You could easily make a temporary one if needed. This one is from Popular Woodworking magazine.

You can use the base plate off of the router, or try this link. FOG. You should probably sign up for the forum before asking. I am curious, what are you doing with it?

Purple heart will turn brown while you are cutting/shaping and sanding it. You can bring back the color prior to applying a finish by heating it gently. You can stick in your oven, use a heat gun, or even a hair dryer. Be careful with the heat it is easy to over do it and turn the wood very dark. Purple heart is not going to stay purple no matter what you use as a finish. Overtime it will continue to darken. For something like your grip I would use a polyurethane to protect the wood from exposure to the sweat/oils in your hand. That looks like it will be a fun project show us a picture or 2 when you are done.

I am not sure that is necessarily true, a kickback will certainly ruin the cut, and your day. When I make a cut like that I set up a stop block, use a miter gauge on the left side and let the off cut fall free of the blade. Just set up the stop block so it clears the work piece before the cut is complete.

The shelix head "should" come with the bearings attached. Contact shelix to find out for sure. It took me about 15 minutes to swap the heads, but the jointer was not fully assembled at the time. I did need a puller to remove the pulley from the head. Harbor Freight carries them puller, something like this would be just fine. My jointer is a Grizzly but it is a clone of the DJ-20.

I bought a can of Polyx today and tried it out on some picture frames. I have a question about time between coats, the standard appears to be 8 to 10 hours between coats. But I watched Marc's video and he waited just 1 hour between coats. Since I am an impatient finisher, that appealed to me and I am pleased with the results. However, am I missing something, and do I need to the longer time.

This is what I had planned...then I told the boss. She looked at me cross-eyed and explained to me that since some of the furniture that will be near by is Sapele, the frames should be Sapele. So now it will be Sapele. I wonder when the quarantine will be over.....

My wife and I were doing our quarantine thing the other day and cleaned out some storage boxes. We "discovered" 3 b&w photographs that I have had stored for years. These are professional pics that were bought when I was a kid and my family lived in Kenya (in 1956). They have never been framed and it is time. The wood types I have chosen are curly maple or walnut, I will probably do an inlay of one or the other, but I am having trouble picking which should be the primary wood. What would you pick? The matting is yellowing I will probably re-mat but haven't made my mind up on that. All three are similar in style.

There is a 9x15 extension table that comes with the slider, that makes a total of 28" of support from the blade. I rarely need that additional support so I don't have it attached. When I need to cut a long piece I support the end of the stock with a roller stand so it doesn't pop up on me. There are t-tracks in the fence, so adding a hold downs could be done, but clamping to the fence itself, I don't know. The fence on the Saw Stop slider allows for a 58" inch stop. I checked into buying just the fence but it was stupid expensive. If I needed something like that on a regular basis I would probably make a sacrificial fence.

48" on the crosscut and the length stop is a about 40" from the blade. I made 2 of @G-Dubinfeed tables to help support ply when I cut. I wouldn't cut large pieces of ply without using one of them. I just don't feel comfortable horsing a piece of ply through the saw anymore. Its an age thing... short infeed long infeed You will have to move or cut your fence rails, and Grizzly says you have to remove your left table extension. But to keep the extension would simply require drilling a couple of holes in the outside edge to attach the slider. I don't have the shop space to do this. This would also move the slider fence further to the left but adding a sacrificial fence would be easy to do.

A couple of years ago I added this sliding table. I really like it, between this and my Osbourne miter gauge I haven't used my cross cut sled since I installed it. Sawstop makes one, it is more expensive and I was able to look at it prior to buying and discovered that it is nearly identical to the Grizzly, (the sawstop fence is a more elaborate). Both tables are made in the same factory. There are a number of people on the web that gripe about the fences on these tables. The gripe stems from them not have a positive stop at 90* and therefore it takes a lot of time to set up for a cut. This is kind of silly, since it is easy to set 90 with your table saw fence. It takes me about 30 seconds to set 90 and cut. Mine is extremely accurate and using the 5 cut method it is less than .001 over 25". It has made my life much easier when crosscutting large lumber or ply.

What is broadband? We either have slow as molasses DSL or really expensive satellite. But we have the benefit of very few neighbors, very little traffic, with frogs, coyotes, and owls to serenade us at night.

You can rent a pallet jack. Here is a video Unemployed redneck showing how he did his Grizzly planer.

I have the TSO squares and use them with every track use, whether for the track saw or router.

I know making duck calls are a common use for resin castings, I have never seen anything to indicate that the cured resin is not food safe, but I would contact the manufacturer to be sure. Personally I would be more concerned about the finishes used. I use a petroleum based polish, that I wouldn't put in my mouth.... I started stabilizing wood many years ago, but just for my knife scales and gun grips. The only reason I stabilized those was to protect them from the environment they would be exposed to. I am not set up to stabilize now (it is on my list). Voids occur with pressure pots, not because of the air within the wood, but air trapped in the mold when the resin is poured. Part of the problem is with the quick setting resin I use, I just don't have time to make sure all of the large bubbles have escaped. That is the primary reason I am switching to a slower setting resin.