avion2001

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About avion2001

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Everything

Recent Profile Visitors

699 profile views
  1. That is correct. The hinges are screwed to the end grain on the base and to the wing. It has been about a year since I made it and the screws are still holding tight. As for getting the fences parallel...yeah it was kind of a bear. Like I said before, I didn't put alot if time or effort into that task and wish now that I would have. Mine work fine but are not perfect and as a result I don't really use this as a reference as much as work piece support. Ibwas still pretty green when I built this so I chalk it up to that. I think that if you put the time in you couldreally dial in the accuracy. On a side note, I plan on breaking it down and building a dedicated miter saw stand/cabinet that is stationary and has lots of storage. I would like something more stationary and with lot of storage. But I still would recommend building this as I learned alot from the initial build. Good Luck!
  2. I built this cabinet and it has worked great. It is very sturdy and can handle boards up to at least 8 feet long. My only complaint with the design is the difficulty in lining up the fences with the fence on your miter saw. Just be sure to take your time and be patient. I wish I would have spent more time on alignment.
  3. I do agree, although I think we have Marc and others to thank for popularizing woodworking videos enough that we now have a larger pool to pull from. Individuals may not put out as much content, but more individuals put out content so it seems they have helped to fill the void.
  4. I appreciate all the responses. I will run the options past the boss and decide on a design. I will post a picture of the finished product once it's done.
  5. I hear ya...that was my thinking as well. I wonder how RH can make them as sturdy as they are without any supports?
  6. That's a good idea. I may try that.
  7. I did actually...there is no visible joinery so I am guessing mortise and tenon?
  8. Thanks guys...no domino...maybe for christmas. Lol I am thinking loose tenons made by had with a narrow stretcher in the center that won't be very visible. Would that add enough strength? Something maybe 2" thick in between the legs.
  9. I am planning a build using 8/4 stock and I am seeking advice on joining the legs to the table. There will be two wide legs, one on either side and slightly inset from the end. How should I attach the legs to the top? I don't want any other stretchers or supports underneath if I can help it. Attached is a picture of what I would like it to look like.
  10. Thanks for all the ideas guys! I think what I am going to do is tint some epoxy and fill it in. I am not to worried about it really, because it is a desk top and I plan on puting a hutch above it that will mostly cover up that area. But for in the future...is the consensus that a steaper angle plane or card scraper a better way to go when starting to smooth wood like this?
  11. I was thinking the epoxy thing. Is the epoxy colorless?
  12. It's Goncalo Alves. I have been using a No. 4 smoothing plane.
  13. How do I remove chatter marks from a board when trying to plane it smooth. I have a sharp blade and an trying to prep the surface for finishing. I just can't seem to get this one section of a lamination smooth. I have tried going in both directions and it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestion?
  14. What are these sample chips of plastic laminate that you speak of?