johneone

I know this is an old thread, but I'm about to embark on building this box and wanted to ask a couple of questions. I caught most of the errors in the plans, but this thread helped me confirm that I was right. How is the box holding up?, I am concerned that there is a lot of end grain to end grain glue ups and was thinking of putting 1/8" Baltic birch plywood splines in to strengthen the glue ups. Anything you wouldn't do or would do when building? Thanks, great documentation of your build.

Will look into this, thx

Will try this next week just in case

Definitely the VOC's, Mineral spirits also disappeared. I'm just looking for alternatives to mix my shellac, not interested in debating why DA is no bueno, can't do anything about that.

Thank you all for the answers. A few points: 1. I didnt post this for the California haters to jump in. I love California and understand it does things differently. 2. Everclear really isn't available in California, nothing stronger than 80 proof. 3. Northern California might as well be a different state than So Cal. It may have been more accurate to state that So Cal has banned Denatured Alchohol, my apologies. I've got a line on a gallon of DA that should tide me over for a while until I source an alternative. thanks guys!

So I find out that California has banned the sale of Denatured Alcohol. What else can I use to mix up a batch of shellac? Before you suggest grain alcohol, we haven't had that since 1969

Its a lightweight poor copy of the HTC table that has been around for years.

I have some bottles of"stick fast" and "kwik bond" ca glue that i purchased from a hobby store over 5 years ago. I keep them in the fridge and they are both going strong. One is a medium and the other is a thin.

I once sat in a Maloof rocker, its comfort is enough to convince you to try and build one!

I sold mine, didn't like it at all, just felt unsafe to me.

I have built a box with some nice figured wood and have applied Danish oil to bring out the curl. I want to give it a coat or two of lacquer for protection. How long do you think between the Danish oil and applying the lacquer.?

Checkout Costco. They have a shop stool that has padding and is height adjustable, also it's pretty cheap

Check out the book "400 wood boxes" plenty of inspiration in there!

I use the lid from a Tupperware bowl. Great for spraying the blade with a blade cleaner and cleaning with a brass brush.

At the time I did this delta sold a version of the beismeyer fence for contractor saws, so it was a direct replacement. I don't think it's available any more. However I don't think it would be difficult to fit one to a 34-444. Good luck, they are a good saw.

When I had a 34-444 I replaced the stamped steel wings with melamine wrapped with walnut. At the same time I replaced the jetlock fence with a 30 inch beismeyer fence. That Setup worked well for me for 15+ years until I upgraded to a cabinet saw.

I like it because: 1. long open time, 2. you can wipe excess off with a wet rag and IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE FiNISH. The downsides are: 1. Need to warm it before using 2. Not waterproof. 3. Not available everywhere. 4. Shelf life of one year(longer if you refrigerate). Overall I find it easy for glue ups and you can take your time.

Old brown glue, unless there is a need for waterproof - then tbiii

Thanks that helps, except my ring doesn't want to pop out like that - the plastic of the bag starts to stretch and the ring doesn't move. I guess I'll just play with it some more, must be my technique.

Does anyone have a good method of removing these bags on the jet dust collector ?, I can't seem to get mine out without destroying the bag.

yes, I felt that way when I sold my Delta contractors saw. I upgraded to a PM 66, but kept the contractors saw for almost 10 years because I didn't want to part with it. The only consolation was I helped a person get into woodworking and he was exceptionally happy to be getting it.

Started to use Old Brown Glue on everything that doesn't need a waterproof glue.