kbj

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About kbj

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Everything from Framing to Furniture!

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  1. The TS75 gets the high rating with the Mafell. while the Makita ranks below them. Personally I have the Makita and have been very happy with it. Now that I've used it a lot, I'd like to re-compare against the TS55 and the TS75 and see how I feel about them. But it has been extremely accurate and a real workhorse. I do agree with the comments on the bevel scale. One thing that swayed me to the Makita instead of the TS55 is the Makita is know to have more power. While I was ripping some 6/4 walnut down, I was happy to have the extra power. It's amazing how easy a track saw makes some tasks. It would be hard for me to give it up now!
  2. I use the Freud Pergo Blade. It's pricey but lasts waayyyyy longer. Just did a whole house with it and it's still a brand new blade. Easily would have killed a blade or two of the cheap ones. You'd need to do more than just one flooring job to get the $'s worth compared to a couple cheap blades though. The very first time I installed a laminate floor I had a nice finish blade in the saw. Killed that really quickly. :/ Bosch Jigsaw blades seem to hold up ok too. I like the reverse cut blades. I can mark my notches etc. on the top and cut without tear out. Long rips I actually do with my 18v Saw and a decent blade. They're not too pricey and I don't really care if there is some chipping on the floor because it gets covered with baseboard anyway. The dust is nasty though! So protect yourself from that.
  3. kbj

    Miter Saw Thoughts

    Just adding my two cents...... I have a 12" Dewalt SCMS and a Kapex. I really, really, really like the Kapex. The accuracy is a couple steps above the Dewalt and the Dust collection is miles beyond it. However I do agree it's underpowered when cutting heavier stock. I use it mostly for trim, cabinetry, and some furniture pieces. I keep the Dewalt for framing etc. Now, I've done plenty of trim with the Dewalt and with a good blade, excellent results are possible. I've spent some time tuning it up and it cuts plenty accurate. My opinion though is a 12" blade can deflect easier than a 10" and I can physically see if I pull to the side with the slide extended the head deflects. So careful operation is needed to achieve good results. The benefit for me with the Kapex is the dust collection, lighter weight, and more consistent accuracy. I also have a Best Fence setup for it, so repetitive accurate cuts are a piece of cake. I'm about to Trim out a house with it, and I love the fact I can setup on a Dropcloth with the CT36 and cut right there in-room. Saves a lot of time and walking! Now we just did the whole house in Pergo and I used the Dewalt (due to lack of availability of the Freud Pergo Blade for the Kapex) and setup in the garage for the cuts.... What a mess that thing makes!!! Hahaha. I would never bring that thing inside to cut. Still, if I was going to own only one saw, for the varied types of work I do, the Kapex wouldn't be it. It's no secret they like to burn up motors, and I think some of that has to do with cutting heavy material. I wouldn't be surprised if that's amplified by being connected to a dust extractor on an extension cord for a lot of people. But I digress..... I think you should look at the type of projects you have ahead of you, and what you want to build in the future and evaluate from there. I know the heavy-ass Dewalt will endlessly cut bigger timber, with pretty decent accuracy while mastering the art of maximum sawdust dispersion. I know the Kapex will cut a perfect 45... or 43.5... or wherever I put the dial, and leave a very small amount of debris behind. Truthfully, if either died, I replace it. But I also realize most people would find it ridiculous to have that kind of money in a couple of Mitre saws!
  4. I have a Milwaukee M18 Fuel Circ Saw. It's been great. Obviously it doesn't have the power of my Wormdrive. But unless I'm doing a lot of framing, or Cutting bigger beams, I don't really need it. It's great for smaller jobs. Plenty of power and with the new 5.0 batteries the run time is even better. Can't say I've really ever counted cuts. But it seems to last a good while. The Rafter hook is a nice feature. Not sure if the competitors have them. I Bought the 6 1/2 instead of the 7 1/4 because the blade is on the left like my big saw. Plus I like the lightness, especially on a ladder! I think if you're looking a the current generation of brushless pro level tools you'll be pleased by their performance. If you're looking a the the more DIY'er aimed tools, you're less likely to be satisfied if you're really putting it to work. Really depends on I will say that since I got the Fuel Saw, the Wormdrive stays at home way more often!
  5. I've built some shutters using the Rockler kit. It makes it pretty easy to get a nice result. I used all poplar for mine and it worked very well. I made the Louvers as well with their router bit. Getting the control arm clips in is a PITA! But you'll develop a routine and find a rhythm for it. I with I would have painted before assembly, but since they were my first run with the kit, I wanted to make sure everything worked ok.... One of these days I'll find the time to spray them... When I make more I will definitely pre-paint everything.
  6. kbj

    Festool track

    I have a couple of 5' and a 10'. I prefer the 10' as it's less time consuming and fiddly to get straight cuts, but I also don't like transporting the 10' track as I worry about it getting damaged in transport. So when working on a site I just bring the short tracks and join them using a 6' level to ensure straightness. It's just more time consuming. So to answer your question, you can certainly get away with shorter tracks and join them. I have Makita tracks, but I've heard many Festool guys prefer the Makita rail joining kit to the Festool version as the set screws don't dig into the track.
  7. This is a great thread. It's easy to remember the value we spent on big tools etc, but easy to forget how quickly the smaller items add up. I know I'm way overdue for an inventory. I have so much of my life in my shop at this point, having to replace it would be a pure nightmare. We were robbed once, it's the worst feeling of violation ever. What pissed me off the most was they left my new Nikon digital SLR and took an old antique camera and a small coin that were family heirlooms. The camera was worth almost nothing pure sentimental value. Had they just taken the Nikon it was easily replaceable. Fire is obviously another big worry, but quite honestly at that point I care more about my dogs then possessions.
  8. If you're going to invest in a router, one that accepts 1/2" bits is a much wiser investment. The Bosch 1617 is a very nice tool. I had one for awhile. Sold it to a friend. It's nice piece. Not terribly expensive either. Where do you live? Most cities will have a hardwood dealer. Saves on shipping costs. With a Table saw, some clamps and glue, you should be able to get going with some cutting boards. I too recommend going with 3/4" pipe clamps if you go that route. 1/2" clamps and pipe are not much cheaper but are considerably less strong.
  9. Congrats on your purchase. You'll enjoy it! Don't forget to grab yourself a set of these guys. Dewalt Track Clamps I had to run a file on mine really quick to loosen up the fit. But they're a good deal, work well, and are cheap for the pair!
  10. Was just offering my opinion since I do a lot of work with both. Everyone has their own work style, projects, and timelines. Most of the videos I've seen where people replace the table saw, it seems like they're doing it more to prove it can be done. Absolutely fine. More power to them. I can tell you though from experience, if you ever have to rip down a few hundred feet of face from material and some of that is form 2 1/2" to 2", you'll want a table saw. well at least I did last week when I was doing some built ins an just brought the tracksaw. After admitting how slow it was, I took the wood home, ripped it nice and quick the next am, and went back with a bunch of proper sized wood. Like I said It's just my opinion, projects, and work style. Always thought that was the reason for a Forum was to share opinions.
  11. You'll be happy either way. But FWIW I use the Makita with an MFT and a Festool CT36 almost daily. The same functionality is there regardless of saw. The Makita will run on the Festool Rails just fine. You just loose the anti-tip lock since Festool doesn't have that on their saw. On the FOG it seems most guys ditch the MFT's included miter guide setup and just use dogs anyway. Knowing that was 50% of the reason I bought a replacement MFT top and made my own table with it. Dust extraction port is the also the same. It will run Festool blades, but they're a few MM smaller so the scoring feature won't work, and you'll obviously loose a little plunge depth. But I've still used them no problem. The Makita blade gives quite nice results on it's own anyway, though I just picked up the new Infinity track master blade, so I'm looking forward to giving that a test ASAP. Just some info for those debating between the saws. Really the only thing that is a minor annoyance is the lack of Plug-it since I'm so Festool invested. But I'll remedy that soon. I think any of the better track saws will leave a user happy with their purchase. As for ditching the table saw..... nope. No way. Not happening. They compliment each other well, but There are some things that a table saw is better and/or more efficient at.
  12. Eh. I really like most Woodpeckers stuff, but this just didn't do it for me. A large good square can handle the task and do a lot of other things too. MFT and Dogs do a good job for most stuff. Somewhere I saw a square Anderson Plywood sells for 20 something dollars that would be nice to have. I planned on grabbing that next time I drive by. I wish they would have re-run their large framing squares instead. I'd be all over that! I do have the 18" square on order... July seems so far away!
  13. kbj

    Router work

    Enjoy! The first time I used my Router lift I was so angry with myself for waiting so long to buy it! Making height adjustments from the top is glorious!
  14. I was eyeballing the ETS EC 150/3 since it came out and I just finally picked it up. Also not going up on price... But glad I got it now anyway. It's a very nice piece of kit. As much as I love my Festool stuff, I also just couldn't see the additional $ for the tracksaw so I got the Makita instead. I've been very happy with it. Tracks are compatible too which is handy. Comes in a Systainer too which is handy for stacking when on the go. The power cord is annoyingly short though. I keep saying I'm going to mod it with a Plug-It, but haven't had the free time to figure it out.
  15. I have a small shop right now and have a router table in the wing of my tablesaw. It takes up some room, but I wouldn't part with it. Though it sounds like your saw doesn't like you. Maybe a new model like one of the fold up job site saws or something?